Derek Willmott, with some words by Lou
I did two mods on my TLT 5. First, with the way my feet are shaped I needed more width at the forefoot. By sticking the boot in boiling water (at our elevation of 1,800 feet) it softened enough to squish with a clamp so the toe are is flatter and wider. I stuffed a tennis ball with shims in there during the clamping, and used a wood block underneath to prevent deformation of the sole area from clamp pressure.
The mod I made that perhaps applies to more readers is my “popsicle stick” lean lock block-off. All explained below in photos.
I hope this helps some of you out!
The fit part of my mods involves a clamp to get some forefoot width. To prevent deformation of the boot sole used a block of wood below the sole, and a tennis ball is stuffed inside with shims.
Key for this boot fit mod. Stick a tennis ball inside between the clamp jaws.
TLT 5 Dynafit lean lock modification to keep buckle from engaging lock unless you want it to.
Modification, when flipped down, prevents buckle tang from inserting into the boot. Not only is this mod nice for keeping boots buckled without locking the cuff, but also allows you to stow the buckle without it sticking out, catching on rocks and ruining your pants.
Lock block is easily stowed behind latched buckle when you want full lean lock.
Also see our TLT 5 cuff lean angle mod.
Beyond our regular guest bloggers who have their own profiles, some of our one-timers end up being categorized under this generic profile. Once they do a few posts, we build a category. In any case, we sure appreciate ALL the WildSnow guest bloggers!
71 comments
For my TLT5 Performance, I would need to put a new hole in the cuff for your second modification as the power strap holes are off to the side.
Also where did u get the plastic for the second mod? I thought Popsicle sticks were wood?
Harpo, a new hole in the cuff isn’t going to hurt anything.
We put the word “popsicle” in quote marks for a reason (grin).
Lou
Still confused with the tennis ball? What does it do and why couldn’t you just clamp down without it? Also it looks like those are the Mountains. Any future reviews on the Mountain specifically and or how it compares to the Performance? Lou? Thanks
According to Derek, the tennis ball keeps the clamp from collapsing the top of the boot too much. I’d imagine it might bulge out to the sides while being clamped, and thus help expand the boot width, and also helps even out the point loading of the upper part of the clamp. Derek?
In terms of Mountain vs Performance, what you get with the Performance is a hair less weight and a hair more stiff. I’ve used them both, The stiffness difference is slight but I noticed it. Some folks might even prefer the bit more damping and give of the plastic cuff. Whether the differences are worth the money in case of Performance is of course a matter of personal decisions. With either boot, you’re going to notice a substantial improvement in your uphill efficiency. They’re addictive, because of the weight savings as well as the cuff freedom. The combined buckle and lean lock is genius. I could care less about the metatarsal bend, though it might help a hair in low angled striding. It does cause the boot to move a bit more in alpine mode than a boot without hinge. That can be remedied with a spacer under the ball of the foot. But that might compromise lateral release. I did that with my spring touring skis so they’d feel more solid on hardpan, for powder, who cares…
Caleb, the tennis ball and the wood block underneath are to stop the sole of the boot from pushing in when you clamp down. This happened quite alarmingly on my first attempt. The wood block may be enough, but I can imagine the sides bulging out causing the sole to cave in a bit, and I wanted to be sure. Try without the ball if you like and tell us how it goes!
Harpo, my plastic popsicle stick is made from “kydex” which is sold in sheets for god knows what purpose; I expect a thick crazy carpet would work, or almost anything you could find at the dump (my prime source for materials).
Lou, I for one would like the TLT 5s to bend a little MORE in the forefoot. Has anyone tried to tweak this, for instance by elongating the slot for the front toe rivet?
To Derek or Lou, Fine photos, inspiring some questions… how much time in the boiling water? Just a quick “dunk”, or 10, 20, 30…60 seconds? What of the shims (material?), were they to keep the tennis ball centered? And finally, that “popcicle stick”, just a piece of “pleather”? Great idea, whatever it is. Looking closer, I wonder if a piece could be attached to the buckle lever, eliminating the need to drill and bolt the piece on?
Dave, I poured boiling water into the boot and propped it at an angle to keep the water in the toe area (filled up as much as it would hold) for about 5 minutes. Then I adjusted the clamp where I wanted it and let it sit for a few more minutes, then poured out the water and let it cool with the clamp still on.
The shims were because the tennis ball wasn’t tall enough to press down on the sole to keep it flat (possibly unnecessary – see my last post).
Any plastic that softens with heat should work for the popsicle. Heat-forming it to the boot cuff shape helps it to not interfere with the buckle closing normally.
Someone had already posted here somewhere about attaching something to the buckle, but that seems hokey to me. This way is slick. I didn’t need to drill a hole – the powerstrap rivet hole was in the right place – but it wouldn’t hurt to drill one.
Good info on the TLT5 mods. I can see this being useful. Where I’ve had issues is coming out of the huts with heavy packs and in tour mode. With no support the occasional whoop – de – doo can put you on your tush!
My question for Lou is: When are we gonna get a Titan Ultralight review???
Marc
I’m getting the Titan UL soon. You just reminded me to email Salewa for them so I’ll get on that. I’m a bit reluctant to guarantee a time because I like to get quite a few days on boots before I proffer opinions – its the Wildsnow way. Having said that; how about sometime before Christmas? BTW – I’m the original Titan and ZZeus reviewer for Wildsnow
Cool mods. My Titans have been punched out in the same area.
You wouldn’t be the same Derek Willmott who was in the UBC varsity outdoors club in the 90’s? If so, good to see you’re still getting out!
Why would you ever need the second mod? I skied 100 days in these boots and never had the buckle accidentally close. It takes a pretty good amount of pressure to lock since the entire upper cuff tightens down. Have the boots “slipped” into lock mode on you? Weird.
You need the second mod to avoid damage to the upper buckle, e.g. when climbing rocky ridges to the summit, or when walking through deep snow with a hard crust (and rocks hiding underneath).
In walk mode the upper buckle is sticking out and is fairly exposed, and thus easily catches on a rock if you’re not careful. The result can be a bent upper buckle, which fails to close to ski mode. Skiing down in walk mode isn’t really pleasant! You loose all the stiffness the TLT5p usually offers 😉 Happened to me on the second tour out 🙁
I really like Derek’s mod. I usually just pull the end of my pants down over the hole and close the buckle. The fabric of the pants also prevent the buckle from fully closing. The buckle is out of the way and protected from damage, and the boot provides a little bit more ankle support for climbing. In this “semi-closed-mode” it feels similar to a regular mountaineering boot.
Slick mod for those who want to close the upper buckle while still in walk mode!
Also would avoid possible damage to the buckle during boulder hopping, although I have all too much experience with off-snow travel in my DyNA and then TLT5 — so far so good.
But emergency repair in the case of catastrophic failure is very simple: just bring along a screw rivet to lock together the two parts of the shell for a bomber ski mode. And of course you already have a Voile or similar strap for tightening up the cuff if the buckle is totally gone.
More details here:
http://www.wildsnow.com/4715/dynafit-tlt5-buckle-repair/
LL – thanks for the update. I’ve actually ordered a pair of the Titan ULs. TLT5s for the light and fast and long days, Titan ULs for the big boards, speed and sidecountry days. It’s funny, the better the gear gets, the more you want/need (quiver of boots as well as skis… and ice axes and mountaineering boots and crampons and jackets and gloves and goggles and sunglasses and…!)
My problem with the protruding buckle hasn’t been buckle damage, but rather damage to the $200+ pants cuff that I tend to pull down over it. I really really need my buckle to stay folded flat, or else I need to get out the sewing machine and make a window in the pants cuff for the buckle. Or perhaps best, both… Lou
You need to ship your pants to Greg L. — he has a super-slick sewing job for this.
Jason, sometimes, it’s just weird.
Lee, indeed, as always we want to get the long term use/review going so thanks for working on that. First-look are ok as well, but we’re not going to be giving “editor’s choice” awards to stuff that’s been out for a month, that’s for sure. We’ll leave that up to the print magazines (grin).
Greg?
I see, you walk with the buckle resting on the popsicle stick. I agree with Jonathan, “Slick mod for those who want to close the upper buckle while still in walk mode!” Seems like having the buckle resting in the back would also hurt the range of motion.
Jason, the point is to change the walk mode stiffness. When you’re touring down rolling terrain and you want to be able to walk through the flatter parts and slide down the downhills, a bit of support in the cuff is desirable, but a locked ankle is not. Also when kicking steps up a steep snow couloir the support is nice.
Forgot to add that my approach for gaining some control in walk mode every now and then is just to crank the strap tightly closed.
Lou, my (homemade) ski pants have a zipper on the outside of the leg that goes right to the bottom, plus two snaps to keep it closed at the bottom. I find that I can do up the snaps and tuck them below the buckle. The zipper stays open a few inches and the buckle protrudes from the open zipper. To lock the buckle, I open the zipper past my knee and close the buckle without ever undoing the snaps. Maybe this style of pant would solve your buckle issues.
HI! Greetings from the Wasatch!
Despite using Dynafit bindings for years, I am still do not fully understand the intended function of the toe piece. Specifically, when should the toe piece front lever be pulled upward into the “locking,” position? Someone knowledgeable told me that the binding cannot release at all when the toe piece lever is fully locked, and that this position should be used only with the heel in climbing mode. I cannot find this written down anywhere.
If you’re interested in the TLT pant mod, shoot me an e-mail – I can send you very specific directions at the very least. Make sure you wear the pants around with the boots for 15 minutes or so, then mark the ends of the buckle with a white or yellow pencil. Cut between the two marks in a straight line, and cut small “Y” s at the ends. Fold flaps over and sew down in several places . . .
When the toepiece lever is in tour mode, pulled up multiple clicks, it is locked in any practical sense. This mode keeps the skier from releasing while touring. In this position, the toe can release, albeit at a release value many levels above the release setting indicators. I’ve tested this on a work bench, not while skiing. While locked, the toepiece is incredibly strong. A skiing buddy of Andrew McLean fell in a crevasse on Mt. St. Elias and was solidly hanging by one Dynafit toepiece.
These boots seem incredible, and I can see myself in them in the future. My problem is with having to modify a $700 dollar piece of gear. Personally, when I acquire such an item, I want it to require virtually no such tinkering. We put a man on the moon forty years ago. Can’t we get small details like lean locks and buckles ironed out better before these things hit the market?
Peter, not sure why you can’t find it in writing, but it’s simple. The Dynafit binding toe lock is intended for use when your heel is NOT locked down. It’s intended to keep you in the binding when you’re in touring mode. When you’re in downhill mode, it’s intended to be UNLOCKED. As simple as that.
To confuse matters, some folks ski downhill with the toe locked, because of either real or theoretical problems with inadvertent release. In that case, all it locks out is side release in downhill mode, upward release at the heel stays the same whether the toe is locked or not..
I don’t recommend skiing downhill with the toe locked unless you discover an actual real need to do so, or are in a situation where an inadvertent release could kill you, such as in steep no-fall terrain. In that case, it’s a very nice feature.
Mark, good point. But guys are out there modifying their $50,000 trucks. With that in mind, modding a ski boot doesn’t really seem like that big a deal (grin). That said, I was pretty surprised when the TLT 5 boots came out with the necessity of having that buckle sticking out to the side when not latched down. For me, it causes all sorts of problems.
AHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!! … I love the mods process on TLT5, is getting on a top fun level for me.
By the way, I really start to become proud that a boot I put so much effort on it is so much discussed on the web… never seen something like that before…
I think when we go on like that for a few more years Dynafit will be killing all competition .. .at least for the interest generated online by our boots 😀
Mark W… I take your comment like an “offense” … as it looks like we are idiots… so my answer: you put a men on the moon (maybe) 40 years ago but a few ones were killed before reaching it… and investing a budget which will allow a company like us to make ski boots able to make people flying instead of skiing…
All of that to say … it’s very easy to comment and modify small details and solve problems.. which are problems only for 1% of TLT5 buyers, once you get a boot in your hands and work on it for one year…
It’s a little bit more complicate to think about an innovative product, design it, develop it and produce it and all of it in one year …
Plus if everything is perfect people like Lou or Derek will not have the chance to work on them anymore 😉
Most of the mods shown here were already developed… and some as well already patented … for example that “mod 2” to keep the buckle closed but the mechanism unlocked… but for some timing and technical reasons and considering that it’s a problem for nearly nobody we never realized that.
The secret for successful company is.. .at one point to say stop to new ideas and go in production… you can go on forever innovating and bringing new ideas but then you never go in production 😉
So please go on discussing and doing mods!, this generate interests and sometimes give us as well good imputes for future developments.
Ciao
Seems to me that having a separate lean lock mechanisim on the cuff would be better for general ski touring use than the current stock configuration of combining the two functions (loosening cuff and unlock cuff) into the function of the upper buckle. The elegant design combining these functions may make for more sense for racing but all these boot and pant modifications suggested for the current design seem like barking up the wrong tree. The weight savings from omitting a more typlical lean lock mechanism would seem minimal.
moutain hardware snowpocalypse pant have a cuff that opens and closes with velcro you can make an opening with the velcro for the tlt5 buckle… they are a hard shell pant though made with the new dryq fabric they have been pretty breathable so far.
I was going to get some kydex for this mod as well as other uses. The thinnest I could find was 1/32″ . Is that thick enough for this as well as other uses, or should I go thicker?
Also, as I said my Performances don’t have a hole in the center of the cuff where Derek attached the Kydex. I will try to attach the kydex to the back of the power strap where it is reinforced. I really don’t want to put holes in carbon fiber if i can help it.
Harpo, the plastic I used is about 1/16, but thinner might be fine. I think you could judge just by flexing it. Overall durability is probably the issue, as I think almost anything would block the buckle from pushing in. I haven’t seen the performance up close, but you may be able to attach the plastic off centre and make it work.
To make an adjustable lock/lean block would it be possible to drill multiple holes close together and use T-nuts with machine screws? Then the block could be repositioned similar to how the Plum Guide binding heel piece is adjusted. Could start with the Dynafit stock OE block and just drill more holes adjacent to each other.
Fred, no, because a very small change in the position of the hole = a large change in the cuff angle, thus, a series of holes would not provide fine enough adjustment for most people. I found that out by pulling out my stock lean lock bars (the vertical alu bar with the lock hole in it) and making my own to swap in. In my view, the best solution is to probably just make a modified bar with two holes, one that provides just a couple degrees less lean, and one that provides a couple degrees more, then give the use a way of blocking off one of the holes. Or else just make a bar with one newly located hole, as I did. I’m no patent law expert, but I’m pretty sure a bar could be made and sold with a relocated hole, so long as the bar was slightly different than the one that’s sold in the boot. Same way they sell things like aftermarket air intakes and exhaust systems (not to mention thousands of other modded parts) for automobiles. But that’s as far as I’d go with trying to offer ideas about that!
P.S., if Dynafit had made the “tang” on the buckle round instead of rectangular, and slightly smaller, then it would be a heck of a lot easier to make a custom lean lock bar as you could just “drill a hole.” As it is, you have to make a rectangular hole which without a milling machine is quite time consuming and lacks accuracy unless you take even more time.
I would not be surprised if Dynafit did change the tang and hole to a round configuration. Seems like that would cost less to manufacture and work just as well… and be easier to provide options with.
Lou
Hi Lou, the ‘holes’ in the heel plate of the Plum Guide are overlapping, their centers 1mm apart, so it actually looks like a serrated slot. 1mm adjustment increments would probably be workable for lean adjustments. By chance did you measure how much your new lock hole was displaced from the original?
I did measure that, but I don’t have it in my memory and I’m traveling. Can give you the measurement next week. It takes very little change in position of lean lock hole to make noticeable difference in cuff lean angle.
In my opinion, just an option for a bit less, and another option for a bit more, would be ok because fine tuning can be done with boot fitting.
Hi, how long has to be the boot in boilng water to be softened enough?
I have used Camelback nipples instead of the popsicle approach. Thether thin cord to the nipple and boot. Place the nipple over the tang.
The boot had too much forward lean for me. I have the Performance with about 50 days on them. I think they are fantastic boots, but have been on the lookout for a forward lean fix. Ferdrico, are you going to have one? Anyone? Shy of crafting a new one from block (nice job Lou), I filed the hole, a little goes a long way, and the decreased lean is the same as my F-1’s.
I notice a slight amount of play, but this simple mod has me very happy. Another and perhaps more risky approach would be to file the tang a bit, but this might reduce the strength to the point of breakage. Not a concern with the filing approach. If play bugs you too much, perhaps JB weld or something could be used to fill the slop. The filing was a simple fix with great results.
If I want to be more agressive, I just lean forward. Perhaps this might bug the piss out of some. However, coming from years of parrell skiing with telemark equipment and figuring out the balancing dance, the play is a non-issue for me.
Oops. Parallel skiing, of course.
The TLT5P is to rando boots what the TLT Speed Classic is to bindings. Thanks Dynafit for keeping it simple and effective. Just as the US ski crowd was reluctant to use the Dynafit binding for several years thinking it “flimsy”, so are we reluctant to pay $1000 for a two buckle boot at first. It takes a few years to get us up out of our groove (like a rut but deeper.) My innovation welcoming young friend has replaced his Titans with TLT5P and finds their downhill performance at least as good, unfortunately my hopes of keeping him in view on the uphill are now dashed.
The TLT5P has enhanced my Performance (pun intended) more than any drug ever could.
Has anyone who has boiled their boots to increase width noticed the rubber sole peeling off of the structural plastic of the boot? Thanks for taking the leap first and telling the rest of us about mods like this. Euros and their skinny little feet….
Derek, Lou, or anyone else with exerperience forming the TLTs,
Your post implies you boiled these twice after you were not happy with the first attempt. I had mine done as well for a bit more room at my bunionette, but one boot is still a bit tight in my forefoot. See any problems with me just putting on heavy socks and a toe-cap and throwing my whole foot in there with the liner like you would when you form the moldable liners? How fragile is the plastic after 5 minutes of boiling water?
Thanks in advance.
Josh
Josh, I can’t see any problem doing that. The shell plastic didn’t seem fragile at all, just more flexible. I’m not sure that it’s soft enough to deform very much under pressure from the liner; let us know how it works!
Josh, the human foot is just a loose sack of bones, it doesn’t work that well as a molding device. A heat softened liner is about the extent of what your foot can mold, otherwise your foot just gets compressed, hurts a lot, and you don’t get results. I’ve even noticed this with liner molding, when, for example, I try to force my heel back into the heel cup by placing a thicker molding cup over my toes. Instead of making much difference at the heel, my toes just crunch up and hurt during molding. Like Josh says, try it, but from my own experience I doubt you’ll get more than a very small amount of molding effect in the shell.
Derek – Did you say how much wider the mod made the forefoot area? Any idea in centemeters (was it a noticable difference)?
Scott, not sure in cm. It doesn’t look like much, but it sure felt different.
Here’s a link to some interesting photos of a new prototype TLT5 that dynafit is developing with a guy named Hoji (don’t know his full name), extreme skier dude. I like the look of the third buckle, as my primary issue is keeping my heel seated while skiing.
Any one else try this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5b8Sh9vhJWE&context=C27ac2ADOEgsToPDskJSayv2V5XfnFFZlMlPG0MR
Hoji = Eric Hjortleifson
I really hope dynafit also comes with a binding that can be skied unlocked also by people like Hoji….
Derek and Lou,
I got around to my home boot-fitting this week:
1) Put boiling water in the boot for 5 minutes.
2) Put one layer of socks on and then heavy heavy industrial strength cardboard “shims” (about 1/8″ thick) over my medial/lateral metatarsal joints. Taped these on with “gorilla Tape.” Then stuffed another thick, firm sock over that.
3) Stuffed my foot into the boot with the liners right after dumping out the water.
4) Once I saw they were not going to split open I walked around for about 15 minutes then left them on while just sitting for another 45 minutes.
I’m not sure if the plastic changed or I just packed down the liner that much more, but they definately feel better both over the MTP and with more “wiggle room” in the toe box.
Bottom line, They definately bulged out when I stuffed my foot in there, but I didn’t ruin the boot and that was my biggest concern.
Thanks for the advice.
Josh
I used 5mins of boiled water and the sock method mentioned above. Definitely works for small changes. After 25mins i cooled them with cold water then ice. My main problems were across the front of the foot and around the heel. I didnt pack heel at all apart from 1 thick sock and my ski sock and packed the outside points of the front of my foot with cardboard taped on.
Lou, Here is another mod to the TLT5
I love my TLT5 boots. I have used them a lot this winter and overall they are a fantastic touring boot. But the lower buckles the boots come with are pretty lame. They won’t stay done up unless they are very tight, you can’t walk in the snow without them coming undone (anybody ever bootpacked or got off their skis to dig a pit?), the spring return is very flimsy, they freeze up, and have no micro adjustment. So I did yet another mod by replacing the buckles with a set off some old Scarpa tele boots (also the same as the Scarpa F1). Should work like a charm. Note that the new buckles that are to be on the TLT6 don’t look much better than the TLT5. They should have gone with some buckles from the Dynafit One.
John emailed this photo. Mod-of-the-month award for sure!
John,
Your TLT5 buckle mod is just what I have been looking for. I agree with all your gripes about the bottom buckle. They are the only weak point in an otherwise great boot. My question is: What do you use to attach the new buckles, rivets? Chicago bolts? Regular Stainless bolts? Thanks for sharing your mod. I will start scanning the used gear shops for some of those Scarpa buckles asap!
I skied the new buckles today! They are fantastic. I stepped in deep snow and my buckles didn’t open up!!! I had a ski shop put the buckles on. They put the buckles on with Chicago bolts (but had to grind them because the plastic is thinner than the bolts were meant for). However they got them on the wrong way by accident so had to switch them around and ended up riveting them on the second time. Either way seemed ok by me. Its also possible some buckles from the Dynafit One would work if you could get some. They have the buckle on top up out of the snow. A friend had some old tele boots that were cracked. I’ve also had Scarpa boots with the same buckles so I new they would be good. Good luck with the mod – you’ll love them.
OK, I have my scarpa buckles. But I am having problems drilling out my TLT bottom buckle rivets. How do I avoid the spinning rivet so I can actually drill it out? Any advice greatly appreciated!
Larry,
I marked the centre with a bradawl then used an old countersink instead of a twist drill bit, afterall it’s only alu, sprayed regularly with water to keep the heat down and held the rivet with a gloved finger on the inside when it started to spin. Although if memory serves by the time it got to the spinning stage I’d ground enough off to get the pliers in and pull bits off enough to pull it through.
Another trick is to grind the head of the rivet off with a burr in a fast drill or a die grinder, rather than trying to drill it out. That’s generally what I do, with plenty of water spray. Lou
Hope someone has experience with this. While I was ordering my new two position forward lean spoiler for my TLT5 from Dyna USA, they said they had a new lower buckle for the TLT5, so I got that too, as I had trouble with the old buckle popping open.
Does anyone used this new lower buckle from Dynafit for the TLT5? The easiest to identify it is that the old buckle has a spring exposed right at the hinge while the new buckle doesn’t have a hinge. Does anyone know if this new buckle came standard on this season’s TLT5’s? Does it stay closed better than the old buckle? Another area of concern is that it has a bump on the underside which I guess is designed to hold it closed via friction with the boot shell, but (without installing it) it looks like this bump might indent or otherwise damage the soft grilamid shell. Has anyone had this experience?
Apparently, the new buckle I mentioned in my last post also came standard on the PDG. Does anyone have experience with it on that boot?
I had the new buckle installed with a screw rivet. Stayed closed on an all day tour that included hiking on rocks and step kicking in snow. Seems to solve the lower buckle problem on the TLT5s. I think it was less than $25 for the pair from Dyna USA.
What about the wearing of the carbon cuff (tlt 5 performance, not mountain) at the joint? I heard rumors about this and that it would cause the cuff to get loose over time. Is this a real issue and if yes, can it be fixed?
It is sometime an issue and difficult to really fix, though you can fake a fix by pressing the rivet tighter. It’s only an issue on high mileage boots, a bit of play in that area is unnoticeable once the boots are buckled into alpine mode.
Next year’s TLT 6 and Vulcan will have this much improved.
http://www.wildsnow.com/9303/ski-boot-cuff-pivot-wear-fix-dynafit/
Lou
Thanks, Lou. Could you give me your opinion then? : As I am going to purchase a TLT 5 right now and probably use it for like 70000 hm (230000 feet) per season and hope to keep it for several years: Would it be better to get the “mountain” for the wear of the cuff will be less (as it is not made of carbon)? On the other hand I want to ride skis up to 88 with that boot. Is the difference in stiffness an issue?
I’d say your 88mm wide skis will be easily driven with the TLT5s as 100mm seem to work out fine. I’m going to try them on my 125mm wide carbon megawatts this year…we’ll see!
Erik, I’m not a fan of how excessively the TLT5P rivet wears during high mileage use, but I’m optimistic that if Dynafit doesn’t step in with a solution the aftermarket will do so. I’d go ahead and get the boots you want and deal with the wear when it happens. Lou
I skied a 177cm x 112mm Huascaran all last season in my Mtns and loved them. Prefered the mtns on that ski over the Ps actually for the more progressive flex. And there are much better skiers out there than me.
Just picked up a pair of the TLT5 Mtns, the inner tongue seems to jam into the front of my ankle while skinning. I’m wondering if anyone has chopped off the floppy inside tongue, and just tour up with no tongue, (seems like it would be just like the PDG) and then put the stiff removable tongue in for the down? I cant imagine the inner tongue does much to add stiffness and performance wouldn’t be vastly compromised without it.
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