Just a quick report about some other climbers up here. By chance we’re tenting next to world class alpinists Colin Haley and Bjorn-Eivind Artun while they were waiting out the weather a few days ago so they could get on the Cassin. When they had a window, they blasted out of here, climbed up and over the West Rib, got on the Cassin and banged it out in 17 hours. That’s the second fastest ascent to date, with Mugs Stump still holding the record at 15 hours.
Colin told me they’d prepared by doing an acclimation climb up the Messner Couloir, as well as a Denali summit via the West Buttress. He said that deep trail breaking on foot is what slowed them down from breaking Mugs’ record. He also reported that their stove malfed part way up the route and they endured serious dehydration.
Pretty cool to get to know these guys a bit.
Bjorn to left, Colin to right, just about ready to leave 14,200 feet and head back to Kahiltna Base and adventures beyond. Yes, they have skis.
6 comments
Sounds like Colin and Bjorn really are moving fast. Congrats on their successes and I look forward to more from the Wildsnow crew too.
Didn’t Steve House do the Cassin a few years back?
Lou, have you guys run into Matt Moniz, the 12-year-old from Boulder who summited a few days ago? He’s getting close to climbing the seven summits. We did a hut trip with Matt this year. Great kid. Keep your eyes out.
Great blogging, by the way. You guys are pros.
Congradulations to Colin and Bjorn! Did they drrag their skis all the way up the Cassin, or just used them low on the glacier?
I ran into Colin and Bjorn at the 14K camp while they were doing some acclimitization laps on the upper mountain. Both very friendly guys. They said they were planning to do a new line on Foraker. Did they give up that plan for the Cassin?
Harpo–
They left their skis at camp when they went up the Cassin.
Steve–
They did get their new line and Foraker in a 70 hour push from camp to camp.
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