Screw rivets, i.e., chicago screws, the boot modder’s friend. The shiny ones are “Normal” chicago screws, the black are “Kydex” type.
I’ve been asked about this a million times. How to install those nice little D-ring leash attachment points some thoughtful boot makers might include on their shells, but are often in odd locations or downright missing? In the ancient and storied tradition of WildSnow dot com ski touring modposts, here we go:
The D-rings are somewhat difficult to source. I found quite a few options out of China, but they all had shipping dates in the three-week range. I found one option that shipped immediately. Here’s a link to the ‘Zon.
What about fasteners? In my strength testing, I found a threaded “chicago-screw” otherwise known as a “screw-rivet” to be plenty strong. In my opinion, it’s a better option than a compression rivet as the threaded type rivet is easily replaced if damaged in a fall (and easier to install).
But what length? In the case of Scarpa F1 LTs victimized for this blog post (they come with a D-ring, but I didn’t like the stock location on the upper part of the shell), the shell thickness where I installed the ring is 2.3 millimetres, while the shortest chicago-screw I could find has a female section of 5 mm. The D-ring tab is about 1.5 mm thick. Thus, the female barrel protruded from the shell about a millimetre. Solution: a tiny washer on the female barrel, to shorten the effective length. Here’s a link to a screw kit.
Another, likely better option than the regular chicago-screws linked above, are the Kydex type chicago-screws, used for belts, pistol holsters and the like. These appear to be stronger than the normal chicago-screw, and they’re shorter, thus more closely matching the often thinner shell dimension of ski touring boots, as opposed to alpine ski boots. They also have screw driver slots on both ends. (I ended up using the Kydex type fasteners for the install described here).
Kydex chicago-screw needs a 13/64 inch bit.
Before inserting chicago-screw from inside shell, apply a layer of double-sided tape, this holds the screw from dropping out of the hole, and adds resistance to rotation as you tighten.
Chicago-screw inserted from inside, worked best for me if flush with outside of shell.
D-ring with chicago-screw, male side, ready to install. Don’t forget a drop of thread locker, or even a dab of epoxy. I use thread locker when I’m in a hurry, but prefer low-grade epoxy as it’s easily reversed by briefly heating the fastener with a soldering iron.
I used a small, right-angle screwdriver to hold the inside screw while I tightened from the outside.
D-rings installed. I like them on the boot toe, but other locations will work so long as you avoid configurations causing the leash to interfere with skiing, or snag on vegetation (the main reason I don’t like leashes that drape from the boot like curtain strings).
I’m not a fan of how most leash clips fit with this sort of small D-ring. When loaded, an ill-fitting clip applies twisting, sideways force that can pop the ring open.
One solution.
I prefer this sort of solution. Elegant compared to bulky clips and tow truck cables. The cord is tent guyline, it tests stronger than the D-ring. The tiny chunk of aluminum keys through the D-ring. Lots of ways to do something similar. For example, simply drill a tiny hole in the boot and do nothing more than back-knot a string that protrudes from the hole.
Here’s one blog post on the subject. And another.
Another view.
Strength testing, the ring pulled out of the tab at around 140 pounds. In my opinion that’s a good “fuse” strength, especially when combined with nylon cord that provides a bit of shock absorption. Nonetheless, leash strength as low as this might not be appropriate for a ski resort or other situations where ejecting a free-running ski is entirely unacceptable. Yes, to leash or not, and how strong, are worthy conversations. Should you feel so compelled, please use the comment section below.
Failure mode is the ring spreading and pulling out of the tab. The chicago-screw and boot shell showed no deflection or damage. A differently angled pull could damage the screw I suppose, but it’s easy to replace.
Another safety note: Attaching the ski leash to the boot toe exerts a lot of leverage on your foot when the leash is employed. Consequently, it’s unwise to use this location for a super-strength “un-fused” leash. If you desire a bomber strength leash, use the type that loops around or otherwise attaches above the ankle joint, to avoid a twisted or broken ankle. More, note that leashes and avalanches don’t mix well. Consider using ski brakes if you play the avalanche game.
13 comments
Very very cool.
I recently read a quote from Ruedi Beglinger about ski leashes being “suicide” and made the decision to just go brakes on all skis. Slightly more weight, but easier to step into bindings, skis not wandering off downhill unattended, not flail the skier in a tomahawk fall, not be an avalanche anchor, and more likely to not rocket out of sight. And no more fiddly clipping/unclipping. Searching for a deep powder buried ski could be a downside.
I too am not a fan of being attached to my ski in a fall. I used ribbons for a while and prefer the extra weight of carrying brakes. Each to their own.
I prefer a light coiled cable leash (much lighter than the B&D version). It’s about a foot long coiled but extends to five feet stretched. One end is screwed to the back of the boot cuff where a power strap would be attached (but is not). the other end has a spring loaded clip that attaches to a light split ring (the fuse) on the toe piece. The leash lies close on top of the boot and has never caught on brush or other obstacles. In an avalanche the split ring would open. In an ordinary binding release the coiled cable absorbs shock and allows the ski to slow down so that the attachment is preserved. The long leash keeps the skier from being thrashed in a windmill fall. I should note that my skis and bindings are light. For heavy gear, something like the B&D leash would be better.
Brakes have their admirers, but they don’t work on the uphill nor on hard or icy surfaces. Brakes don’t prevent loss of ski in deep powder. Brakes add mechanical complexity and weight too.
I lost one of my B&D leashes, and while I normally have brakes, occasionally I use leashes in super hard conditions or on glaciers to aid ditching skis in crevasse, or on my brakeless pow skis in deep pow….so I did same Jim and replaced it with ‘fishing’ leashes bought on amazon. 6 pack, cheap, tight enough coils but still have enough B&D fuses that I use them.
Something that I feel is always glossed over in talk about leashes is the carabiners that are made for those leashes. The BD/ATK, Dynafit, and G3 (just the ones I’m familiar with) ones function as their own “fuse”. Some like Dynafit and the G3 ones pictured above forgo the hook nose so that they will pull open at very low loads. Or the ATK ones do have a hook nose to them but because the spine/ basket of their carabiner has a very minimal cross section they can still be pulled “open” by a relatively low load (1st hand experience). But something like the 22 Designs Axl/Vice Leashes that look to be SS sailing carabiner would definitely need a fuse.
Get rid of the leash. I have too many scars on my knees from getting hit by sharp edges. Try ski brakes with 8′ of avy cord roll up inside the cuff of your pants. Attach 1 end to your binding and leave the other unattached. The cord spools out, is more visible, and much safer. This is a tip from 1973 at Snowbird, Utah. Yes we had fat skis (Miller Softs) and touring bindings back then.
And I discovered what a tree well is while avoiding skewering someone’s dog on Lizard Pass some years ago. Trapped upside down, I was able to get out of the bindings, but could not reach the leashes. Complicated self extraction.
I’ve got leashes on my spring/summer skis. I put a real thin ziptie on my boot to clip to – with the thought that enough to keep from skidding away when clicking in, but would break away in an avy or big fall. But who knows in practice? Hope to not find out!
Great having the links to all your components. I prefer to tour without ski brakes, either a B&D coil leash, or the ATK mini coil ones.
Usually an Ion or Zed binding. With the Zed, I can add a ski brake , or remove it easily, like my old Verts.
But I am skiing here in Vermont with minimal avalanche risk.
Somewhat related… has anyone mounted a leash on Marker Alpinist? There doesn’t appear to be a hole anywhere to attach a leash. There is a metal cylinder on the lever- is that supposed to pop out? If anyone has done this, I’d appreciate guidance. Thanks!
There’s a tiny groove under the toe piece to allow a thin cord/wire to be fed in whilst fitting the bindings, I use the wire loop from a Dynafit leash setup and bend it up to make it easy to clip in to
Thanks, Ken. Now I see- it is a tiny groove! Time to go fiddle around with leashes.
Great! Lou, thank you for your useful advice! I was dreaming a solution like this, but I was not sure to find the screws of the right lenght for the tiny F1’s shell. All the best. Paolo
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