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Scarpa F1 LT Look and Fitting — Lou’s Take

by Lou Dawson October 16, 2020
written by Lou Dawson October 16, 2020

The Scarpa-f1-LT has been called a masterpiece. I’d agree, but unlike the Pietà, my version accepted a few tweaks.

In his WildSnow review of the Scarpa F1 LT, Adam Fabrikant gave us a thorough field test and analysis. Upon seeing what he’d written, and checking the specs, I realized this boot might be the one-kilo-class shoe I’ve been seeking to replace the heavier boots necessitated by my healing ankle (took a while, good now). I don’t seek redundancy with Adam’s coverage, but instead here is my first-look, fitting, and a few mods, all from my point of view as an older guy with a few physical problems. To begin, follow along as I make these puppies work for my feet, and my mind.

(Please note, I’m beginning my evaluation and fitting with a pre-retail version of the F1 LT, as Adam did. If I like them, I’ll shift to the retail-production version when it’s available, ostensibly in a month or two. To be fair to Scarpa, let’s assume the production version will be somewhat improved. I’ll edit this review when such information comes to light.)

Ah, the trials of boot testing.

Ah, the trials of boot testing. Because of the tight gaiter over the instep, I could not slide my right, none-fused foot into the boot without grunting like an Olympic weight lifter — and my fused-ankle totally refused to enter. Solution, surgery (on the boot, not my foot).

Nothing more than a relief cut solved the entry problem for the right boot.

Nothing more than a relief cut solved the entry problem for the right boot. I located the laceration so the boot cuff covered it during normal operation. I also made a partial cut in the elastic tongue retention band on the liner instep.

Opening up access for my left, fused foot was more a challenge.

Opening up access for my left, fused foot was more a challenge. The laceration was a simple matter of removing some stitching, but the opening went well below the boot cuff. I needed a filler gusset to block snow entry. We had a hank of stretchy fabric in our sewing box. It’s not waterproof, but will suffice for testing. If I switch to a retail version of the boot, I’ll do the job with better fabric. Or perhaps Scarpa will add a few centimetres to the gaiter?

Activate the Speedy Stitcher.

Activate the Speedy Stitcher.

I tried to get fancy by doing an inverted stitch on the outside seam.

I tried to get fancy by doing an inverted stitch on the outside seam. So the gnomes of Montebelluna wouldn’t freak too heavily. Mainly, I hope they appreciate the color.

Result is adequate, though too roomy.

Result is adequate, though too roomy.

I was on the mod-trail and was not stopping.

I was on the mod-trail and was not stopping. One thing I intensely dislike about this sort of boot design is the need to adjust the hook-loop buckle strap every time the boots go off, and back on. What’s needed is a way to unhook the buckle while leaving the strap adjusted. 16d nail to the rescue.

The existing buckle axle is 3.87 mm.

The existing buckle axle is 3.87 mm in diameter. A 16d nail is 3.79. Bingo.

I drilled the head off the axle pin, and removed it.

I drilled the head off the axle pin, and removed it.

Test fit. Works.

Test fit. Works. Yes my friends, Lou is nailing his boots. If this mod is viable, I sourced an M4x60 stainless steel clevis pin that’ll fit beautifully.

I cut the nail to length, added a bend so it stays put under tension.

I cut the nail to length, added a bend so it resists coming out.

With my custom quick-release removed, the buckle looks like this.

With my custom quick-release removed, the buckle looks like this. It appears to work well, and the entire mod takes at most ten minutes per boot. I can release the buckle in a second while the strap stays adjusted. Re-anchoring the buckle takes mere seconds; less time than fiddling with the hook-loop, and the mod will not disconnect unless you physically pull the pin. As I do with most of my boots, I’ll probably toss the booster strap, further simplifying things.

I managed to source these beautiful stainless M4 pins.

I managed to source these beautiful stainless M4 pins. Again, I bent the pin so it fits tight. I’m not recommending this mod until field testing. Please note. I’ll update this post when we get some tourable snow.

Now let’s fit these guys:

The F1 LT does have a thin boot-board glued to the inside of the scaffo. A heat gun and a few tools graced me with it's presence.

The F1 LT does have a thin boot-board glued to the inside of the scaffo. A heat gun and a few tools graced me with it’s presence. I’d like to know what kind of glue they used for this, it is gnarly, and would be a welcome addition to my supply of shop chemicals.

The glue was so sticky I resorted to laminating it with paper so I could handle the boot-board without it becoming part of my anatomy.

The glue was so sticky I resorted to laminating it with paper so I could handle the boot-board without it becoming part of my anatomy.

Next, grind out the boot-board for my propensity to neuroma.

Next, grind out the boot-board to assuage my propensity to neuroma. Custom footbeds sometimes include a bump in this region to help open the metatarsals. I’ve found that doesn’t work for my personalized version of neuroma — it just irritates it. Instead, I do the opposite.

I'm all for custom footbeds, but not for every boot I test.

I’m all for custom footbeds, but not for every boot I test — that way would lie madness. After decades in the company of my own feet, I can tweak the funky furry Scarpa factory beds to do nearly the same thing as a fancy custom bed. Here I’ve ground out more space for neuroma prevention.

I need a bit of canting on the inside, and posting under the heel.

I need a bit of canting on the inside, and posting under the heel, as well as building up the inside arch. All accomplished with a Gorilla Tape build.

Time to mold, or do I need a metatarsal punch?

Time to mold the liners, or do I need a metatarsal shell punch? Fitting the shell sans liner revealed I had plentiful mets clearance — another critical thing to prevent or cure neuroma. Measuring the last confirmed. Claimed last is 100, as per industry informal standard, that’s probably for a size 27. My size 28 tester’s last measured 101.9. Makes sense, as the last scales up with size. Checking the fit without liner verifies; my metatarsals have oodles of space. The oodles mode on my digital caliper agrees.

When I evaluated the non-molded liner fit, they felt  short.

When I evaluated the non-molded liner fit, they felt short. Applying ruler to the strobel stitched liner sole bears this out. They’re slightly under 28 centimetres. During my shell fit I’d verified plenty of length, so onward assuming the liner will lengthen during molding.

And here we be cooking.

Here we be cooking. I’m delighted to report that I got a snug, yet comfortable fit. No pressure points, plenty of length. While I might need a few tweaks to tighten the instep area for my bony feet, I’d give the F1 LT an A+ for comfort.

One caveat: I’ve always appreciated Scarpa as one of the few boot companies that provides a buckle strap over the true instep, resulting in exceptional heel hold and less pressure on top of your foot arch. Unfortunately, while the F1 Boa is a sweet thing, it seems to cinch slightly below the ideal spot at my instep. Instead, it behaves like most other boots, and squeezes down on my arch when I tighten. I can probably get used to this. If not, adding tongue padding at the instep might be all I need.

That was it for fitting. No shell punches, no added padding. Yet, anyway. I’ll close with a few observations, mostly having to do with fitting. Field testing will commence in November, clouds willing.

Cuff angle (lean)is slightly adjustable.

Cuff angle (lean) is slightly adjustable. That’s always a plus. You loosen the screws, move things around, then tighten.

Adjustable liner spoiler.

This hook-loop totally adjustable liner spoiler is excellent. Raise it up, drop it down, or just remove it. Or grind it thinner. The world is your oyster.

The extreme low-density sole has a sparse lug layout that'll wear fast if you do much hiking sans skis.

The extreme low-density sole has a sparse lug layout that trims weight, but will wear fast if you do much hiking sans skis.

My only firm disappointment .

My only firm disappointment: Scarpa used the Dynafit Quick Step In (QSI) type fittings. I don’t know why, perhaps some sort of licensing issue. In my opinion, the best tech fitting system is a Dynafit Master Step heel combined with a classic “standard” toe. While the second best is the Dynafit Master Step, with it’s through bolted heel fitting. My whining aside, the F1’s QSI fittings will work for you, so don’t fret, though as always with the externally screwed heel fitting you’ll want to periodically inspect it for looseness and renew if necessary.

Conclusion: With its weight in the one-kilo range, an external lean lock (reliable, we assume) and simplified closure that eliminates the tricky nature of “one motion” race boot systems, we’re confident the F1 LT is a winner. Yes, you’ll need to ski them as you would other boots with a limit to their progressive flex, and you might find them overly roomy. But tweak the fit to your desired feel, fiddle with the cuff lean and give the Boa a chance. From all I can see, you’ll be fine.

Numbers:
Size reviewed: 28
Weight per boot, without footbed: 1084 grams
Availability: November

[Shop for Scarpa F1 LT]

Heat punching results, pre-retail test boot

With my steel bearing surface.

With my steel bearing surface over the toe duckbill, the F1 fit my Sun Valley press perfectly.

I got a 5 mm punch with a bit of odd wrinkling, 3 mm without any issues.

I got a 5 mm punch (pictured here) with a bit of odd wrinkling, 3 mm without any issues. If I’d taken more time with heating I might have have avoided the wrinkle. A better shaped toe punch mandrel might also be key. Aspen most noted: the need for lots of heat.

This happened when the plastic cooled.

I was fairly aggressive with the heating. This happened when the plastic cooled. It’s located where the mandrel was not pressing. If I did this commercially, I’d acquire or make a perfectly shaped mandrel, using the toe of a molded liner as a template. Durability of the punch? I tested with my ANSI approved hammer, no issues.

Lou Dawson

WildSnow.com publisher emeritus and founder Lou (Louis Dawson) has a 50+ years career in climbing, backcountry skiing and ski mountaineering. He was the first person in history to ski down all 54 Colorado 14,000-foot peaks, has authored numerous books about about backcountry skiing, and has skied from the summit of Denali in Alaska, North America’s highest mountain. For more about Lou, please see his personal website at https://www.loudawson.com/ (Blogger stats: 5 foot 10 inches (178 cm) tall, 160 lbs (72574.8 grams).

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/lou.dawson.writer

www.loudawson.com
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33 comments

Travis October 16, 2020 - 12:00 pm

This is so insightful beyond the F1 LT. I will look at my existing normal F1 touring slippers and see what I can apply from this to them. Thanks, Lou!

Jason November 6, 2020 - 8:37 pm

Thanks Lou amazing review. I just
Question: you know now the last/liner compss as res to their Mastrale RS ? I’m a 27 in the Mastrale RS (latest version) and love the fit w my custom footbeds. I tried the new F1LT in a 27 and it feels way to snuck even without a custom footbed. Seem normal to need to size up to a 28?

I also would greatly appreciate a Neuora blog on how to do mods!!

Mirko December 4, 2020 - 8:22 am

Same for me, way too small the same size of Maestrale.

Phil October 16, 2020 - 6:21 pm

Thanks, Lou. I’ll be following these boots…
I was interested in your boot board/footbed modifications for Morton’s neuroma. Many orthotics/footbeds provide a bump under forefoot to spread the metatarsals. You did the opposite – created more space. That makes sense too. Obviously everybody’s feet are different, but it would be interesting to hear your comments on that problem. One that is a painful issue for many people. Perhaps it deserves a whole blog post!?

Slim October 16, 2020 - 8:35 pm

That’s exactly what I was going to say!

Frorider October 17, 2020 - 7:40 am

There is a very clean and effective strap mod you should consider that I developed last winter: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/334615-Scarpa-F1-strap-buckle-mod-—-max-ROM?highlight=F1+boot+mod.

Gregor November 15, 2020 - 1:17 pm

How do we order these?

Pierre Gaudreault October 17, 2020 - 7:53 am

What a beautiful day you had, Lou. Working on this projet.

bfredlund October 17, 2020 - 8:33 am

Master of mods, well done Lou! At first when I read/ saw that you were cutting open the gaiter, I thought ‘oh no!!’, as that was one drawback I found with the Alien RS- its gaiter doesn’t keep the powder out very well, and quickly develops holes.. But thinking about it more, I might just have to do something similar to the Scarpa mountain boot that I use, the Ribelle Tech HD. Waaay to hard to get that boot on! haha.

Keep up the good mods Lou!

Lou Dawson 2 October 17, 2020 - 9:40 am

Thanks Phil and Slim, we’ll look at doing more coverage of Morton’s. It’s a huge problem in the ski industry, due to the mistaken notion that ski boots have to squeeze your forefoot to ski well. The term “performance last” is often the source of more pain than any real performance. Lou

Paolo Piumatti October 19, 2020 - 3:02 am

Hi Lou! I hope to find you well. I just bought a pair two days ago (I don’t know if it is a preproduction model or a retail one, here in Italy). I don’t like the point of attachment of the safety leash, do you have any idea how to move it near the toe?

Andrea November 24, 2020 - 8:30 am

Tx for the – as allways – excellent review. I am looking for a replacement of my now 3years old Scarpa F1 in the next time. If I have an alternative in mind, the old one works longer as you need suddenly a new one.
Is the fit of the F1 LT Similar to the F1? The Same sizing in the length and expanse?

Tuck October 19, 2020 - 7:40 am

Yes, would love to see a discussion about the strange ideas that motivate boot and shoe designers. The bootfitter I frequent has a cast of Picabu Street’s foot on his wall, with her mangled, crossed-over toes on display.

I fail to see how footwear that does that to your feet improves performance; as a famous academic paper that one an award from Nike noted that shoes seem to deform our feet.

Is there any other athletic equipment we use that we expect this from?

Topi October 19, 2020 - 9:34 am

Can you confirm the BSL in size 280 ? many thanks

EZ-D October 20, 2020 - 9:21 am

This Italian boot massacre seemed to have almost nothing to do with Scarpa’s newest flagship boot. Sorry, but I think this is the mod post that finally jumped the shark.

Lou Dawson 2 October 20, 2020 - 11:20 am

Topi, 302 mm.

Scott Allen October 20, 2020 - 3:18 pm

Yes, please more posts on mortons neuroma!

Tim October 21, 2020 - 8:01 am

Maybe you can just fit a better buckle, such as one from a Fischer Travers, so you can just flip it open and closed without any fiddling. I can even transition my Travers without pulling my pants up…they are hassle free transition compared to my F1s that always needed the tongue position fixed and the velcro adjusted.

Frorider October 24, 2020 - 7:28 am

Or you can just use the detachable L hook I described in my post above. Costs essentially nothing, works better than Lou’s nail on a string, and is so absurdly easy to use in the field that you’ll revel in the range of motion.

John B December 12, 2020 - 5:44 pm

I came here to post about this as well. My wife has F1s and loves it! Thanks for the invention Frorider.

Lou Dawson 2 December 13, 2020 - 10:25 am

Fro, your idea does look nice. Any ways to improve? My nail on a string is quick to make, but does involve a destructive mod, and it’s intended more as something to use twice a day. I see the point of your hook allowing quick attache/detach throughout the day. I’ve got a few ideas on other ways to make something similar. Will share here if I get around to it. Lou

Lou Dawson 2 October 21, 2020 - 8:46 am

Tim, yeah, I looked through my stash for a better buckle, didn’t hit on anything. My pin mod might look a little funny but it’s quite functional. It’s more something for end and start of day, to eliminate the time consuming fine-tuning of the velcro, than for switching modes, as flipping the buckle open seems to give me adequate cuff movement for all but flat ground. I know from insider info that the main reason we get all this semi-functional buckle systems is the boot companies have to dance, boogie, and otherwise ballet to avoid patent issues. For me, the bigger concern was actually being able to get my feet into the boots, especially in a cramped situation such as in a small car, or a tent. Lou

Lou Dawson 2 October 21, 2020 - 9:02 am

Topi, if it’s any help, the distance from heel outside surface to center of toe pin fittings is ~285 mm

Daniel October 26, 2020 - 9:40 am

Awesome. I have done gorilla tape footbed buildup for years with great success. So good, so cheap. However, I use custom Sidas Conformable footbeds as a starting point.
Getting boots modded to perfection is very rewarding.

Pete Campbell November 29, 2020 - 2:04 pm

Awesome write Lou. I have difficult feet to fit in AT boots. Foot length is 31 but my instep measures 27.5. So when I get boots that fit my length, my ankle moves like crazy. Anyway, I was lucky to find a pair of F1 LT’s in 31, but my boot fitter did a quick fit (shell only) and thinks they look too tight and would need to be punched out in the toe. His concern is on the material used for the toebox. It looks like a carbon fiber material and he thinks it may crack when we try to punch it. Do you know if these boots are indeed able to be punched out without cracking? Also would love to know if there is a better boot for my oddly shaped foot 🙂 I will be using for splitboarding. Thanks!

Carbonj December 13, 2020 - 9:19 am

Pete they can be punched, but it voids the warranty. Make sure the boot guy has spent time with that boot.I have had good luck with a few shops, one of them said no problem and cracked a nice hole. A few weeks later after much back and forth wrangling with manager I got new boots.

Lou Dawson 2 December 15, 2020 - 8:36 am

Just got done testing my F1 pre-retails samples for heat punching. Tricky. I probably wouldn’t tackle a customer’s unless I had a sacrificial pair to practice on — and even then I’d be hesitant. If a punch is needed, be sure the shop guarantees replacement boots if the punch fails. I’ll post a few photos. I got about 3 mm of punch without too much trouble, but getting up to 5 mm was tricky. Lots of heat. I’d say if you want a boot that can truly be custom shell molded, stick with normal Grilamid, it’s such a joy for molding. Luckily the F1 has plenty of volume, so liner mods can often take the place of shell mods. With that in mind, for those of us with lower volume feet, the liner could stand a few more millimetres thickness overall, for a snugger heat mold result.

Robin December 12, 2020 - 3:22 pm

I have seven days in these boots thus far. Being of smaller frame and advancing age my preferred touring set-up is on the light side, enabling ~5k vert days and the occasional volcano here in the PNW while leaving the hucks and steeps to my burlier offspring.
Observations: (1) For my taste and experience these have been the best compromise of weight-to-performance compared to the Sportiva Syborg and Sytron, and Scarpa Alien 1.0. (2) I too would like better instep hold. Positioning the BOA further back would likely exacerbate the foot insertion issue this post addressed to begin with. The low tech approach of tongue padding is appealing. The hero move: a Maestrale instep strap and buckle; not sure I have the courage for that without an (ahem) how-to photo guide and testimonial. (3) The stance is too upright for me even with the ski/walk lever at the forward limit, the velcro liner spoiler in a low position, the power strap removed, and the buckle strap on the less-than-snug side. Not a deal-killer but something to chew on. My next move may be the Gary Smith / Sportiva Skorpius post foam and spoiler arrangement – but my fantasy is an adapter plate (Hello B&D?) to fit between the ski/walk lever base plate and the cuff that would extend the the lever reach. Interesting that the F1 forward lean is spec’d at 20 degrees compared the F1LT’s max of 13, but the F1’s heft is unattractive to a weight weenie like me.

Lou Dawson 2 December 12, 2020 - 4:21 pm

Pete, the report I’m getting is “don’t try to heat punch,” stay tuned. Robin, I agree, they have a surprisingly upright feel in ski mode. Will work on that. IMPORTANT: I have the production version here, and I can’t even get my normal flexing ankle into the boot without what I feel is too much force — what I’d give for just another centimetre slack in the fabric gaiter that holds the Boa winder. Mileage on that will probably vary, lesson is to pay attention during carpet evaluation. Lou

Pete Campbell December 12, 2020 - 8:04 pm

Thanks Lou. Saw this a little late and decided to punch them. After a lot of calling around, I found a boot fitter that felt confident he could do it and I got another 5mm in front toe. They fit great now. Agree with Robin that the instep fit is too loose and a mod to solve would be welcomed. Again, appreciate all of the advice. Now we just need some snow in Tahoe. 🙂

Lou Dawson 2 December 13, 2020 - 6:36 am

Pete, good to hear about the heat punch, I suspected as much, I have test boots here to try it on, I’ll go for it in a few days. Meanwhile… more on the fitting front here at WildSnow HQ, I acquired a pair of 27s, to fool around with, as my usual method of getting a good fit is similar to yours, that of downsizing so the ankle area fits nicely, then punching out the toe. But interestingly, the 27 mold was remarkably smaller than the 28, so much so I’d have needed to pretty much punch out the entire toe and forefoot area, which wasn’t practical. So I went back to the 28s and will add a bit of dense padding here and there to snug up the fit, though the heel fit will be tough to get perfect. I do like this boot. Worth some work to make it 100% functional for my needs. Lou

Lou Dawson 2 December 13, 2020 - 6:41 am

Robin, yeah, instep padding cemented to tongue is probably first step. I might go back to my old double tongue method, which involves robbing the tongue from a pair of donor heat-mold liners and gluing it to the existing tongue, then re-molding. Or, taking the donor tongue apart and using a sheet of the heat mold foam. Adding another buckle could be done, but the weight and fiddle factor are far from appealing. Nonetheless, I have a pair of sacrifice pre-production F1s so perhaps I’ll experiment and publish. More, I think a buckle mod could easily be done in a way to be non-destructive and reversible. Lou

Lou Dawson 2 December 16, 2020 - 11:05 am

UPDATED SCARPA F1 REVIEW WITH HEAT PUNCHING OBSERVATIONS

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