The first thing you notice is the quiet. This is a ski resort. One of the finest in the land. The home of X-Games, shiny grooming machines, blue Colorado sky and a summit restaurant view that holds up to mountain vistas anywhere in the Alps. There are ski lifts of course, fast ones I’ll admit I hop now and then. And there is noise, normally. Lots of noise. But now the lifties are gone. Their blaring music is muzzled. The chairs they ever so carefully position under thousands of skier’s rear ends hang from a stilled cable, parked, swaying in a light breeze. Yet it is winter, still the height of the ski season.
This is resort skiing in the time of Wuhan.
Colorado Governor Polis had just laid down the law. Despite the Aspen Skiing Company’s plan to keep their lifts spinning, he wielded his mighty pen of power and shut down our entire state’s ski resorts. Rightly so, the idea as I understand it being to slow the spread of corona virus, keep people apart. Lift skiing, well, you ride lifts. You sit next to people, the air is cold, dry, they cough. On the gondola, or the tram.
Driving in, my first view of the resort was the frontside, split by the enormous half-pipe. Small black specs contrasted with the shining snow of a bluebird day. People, dozens of uphillers. There were as many tour skiers as you’d see on a slow day of lift skiing! I laughed. Look what happened, I thought to myself, what the human-powered ski industry has done.
Who knew in, say, 1980, that in the space of a few decades we true believers would create an entire mainstream sport? Weird, wonderful, humbling.
I was in a ski movie once. About forty years ago. Part of the flick gave a nod to ski touring. They enlisted me as a spokesman. Even back then we were rocking adhesive mohair skins, purpose-built backcountry skis, and boots that switched from uphill to downhill modes.
“Man, you don’t need ski lifts, all you need is climbing skins,” I said with the snide lilt of an invincible 20-something, as I fondled a pair of mohairs, the first self-adhesive Coltex ones. “Skins are my ski pass, mannnn.”
Fast forward. Bypassing the resort’s front-side, I drove an extra five minutes to Tiehack, a 2,000 vertical foot shoulder extending off the east side of the mountain. Tiehack’s my favorite place for uphilling. Perfectly angled for medium heel lifters, with a marked route the ski patrol requires you to use during operating hours. It’s a nice ascent which follows the sides of ski runs for safety, then ducks into an aspen forest for an aesthetic finish.
As I popped our hatch-back and grabbed my skis, I kept laughing. The place was maxed. At least 45 cars jammed the asphalt, every one of them an uphill skier. Or two. Or four. On the hill above, a literal mob was attacking the first pitch. I counted forty people on that part alone. Was this “social distancing” of the sort recommended by the experts? Some folks were only five feet apart? The slight breeze and sunlight probably makes things safer? Eat some alpine UV and swirl away, freaking coronavirus.
Being in the over 65 risk group, I waited for the closest mob to gain distance ahead, then entered the fray like I was merging into rush hour traffic. I found my pace and grokked how special this was.
Groomed corduroy layered the slope, ripening to perfection in the March sun. A steady stream of skiers dropped to my left, one every three minutes or so. Some came close, as if sliding by to say hi. When a good one schussed past, tilting refined carves on the velvet surface, I nodded internally and smiled. What a dance, and all the better they’d sweated for it.
I’m not fast these days, so I get passed. Today’s passings occurred at extra polite distance, but not too far for greetings.
“Doesn’t get any better than this!” I said to a pretty lass, as she jogged past me on a pair of Atomic rando race skis.
“You bet, this is incredible, our own private resort!” she replied.
A burly, black bearded guy stomped by, burning vertical on a Marker Kingpin setup, breathing like a packhorse, his billowing hard-shell pants unzipped to his waist. He smiled too. I was envious, thinking how strong he must be. I watched as he chased the Atomic lady. She pulled farther ahead. I allowed myself a grain of guilty pleasure at the sight.
The novelty of the crowd wore thin. Easy to remedy. Today, resort not operating, no need to follow the designated route. I wandered left, found my own line. The quiet settled around me, gently broken by my steady breathing, the faint vowels of people chatting far to my right. I heard a far-off snowboarder, invisible on another run separated from me by an aspen forest. The hollow scraping sound of the deck rider’s turns sifted through the trees like seeds scattered on the wind. I would never meet this snowboarder. I was glad he, or she, had a ski pass.
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Some resorts that have closed don’t allow skinning up the closed runs (Revelstoke for one). This may be because there are maintenance activities ongoing. For example, it has been reported that Whistler is still doing some avalanche control work. So perhaps it is best to check first.
And A basin had so many people come skin onSaturday that they closed down.
Out East here the winter has been disappointing, to say the least. Now that the lifts are closed a couple of areas at least have banned uphill as well.
In light of the ever-tightening pandemic measures I decided to head to NH yesterday to a normally somewhat popular glade yesterday. Despite the dust on crust I was happy to have the woods to myself early in the morning. Since it would be one-and-done I took some time to explore a bit off the beaten path. Lots of deer and other animal prints crossed my path, but I never saw any, just some warning calls by the birds. Socially isolated, just like I prefer it. Survival skiing down was a pleasant challenge, and I was happy to finish. A car with three kids bearing overnight packs arrived, heading for a nearby trail. Pretty sure it was Dartmouth kids who just had their school year cut short.
After returning home I took my 7 year old boy hiking in the Blue Hills, as the weather was gorgeous, the forecast rainy, and my boy getting antsy. Clearly the rest of metro Boston had the same idea, the parking lots were packed. We kept our social distance and avoided the usual summit tower viewing opportunity. I did inform multiple people that dogs need to be leashes on DCR property. On the way down I noted with amazement that there was still a contiguous stripe of white on Big Blue – a wee 300 vft run- which was corning nicely. We drove straight home, and 30 minutes later I was back with my T4s and waxless Karhus. Three slarvy runs and I was spent, but satisfied. Only one other skier, a chap booting it up. On his first run he had collided with a dog off leash, as I encountered the owners tending to him trail side as I was ascending. I gave them the same line line, and felt a bit more justified at my preachiness. I hope the dog recovers- no bad dogs, just irresponsible owners.
I hope this wasn’t my last ski day of the year, but At least I had made squeezed out what I could.
RCL, nice post, thanks! Hear you about the dogs. They’ve gotten much better on our Aspen uphilling areas, probably because the old days of prancing canines chasing and biting skiers couldn’t sustain. But nonetheless we’ve still got problems. Brown things on the slope, and we caught a photo of a yellow lab pissing on the signs, as the owner stood by. I thought that was funny at first, then realized how bogus. Still, a small thing on a wonderful day!
Ah, just fabulous, Lou. So beautiful how you paint such vivid personal images through your hawk-eyed descriptions of gear and our assumptions of the people who use them. We’re truly breaking new linguistic (poetic?) ground around these parts.
In Austria they are fining ski tourers now, and although difficult to control everywhere, they are posting police at the base.
Dear AMC,
I just wanted to confirm that they (State Gov) are not allowing touring in the Austria Alps as I am planning to travel to Austria to climb/tour as soon as things open up. They had a low snow year and it should be an early spring/summer climbing season. MFG Servus Mathias +1 303 875-7083
Mathias, everywhere in the Alps touring is banned at the moment because medical responders and services are desperately needed elsewhere in the hospitals. You will soon see the same bans being taken if they’re not already in your own country.
You mean next year? Hopefully .. This is unfortunately not a joke!
The situation in Europe is becoming absurd, people are supposed to continue working, so you’re allowed to cycle to work, but not allowed to cycle for pleasure. The deaths caused by Corona itself will soon seem ridiculously insignificant in light of what the shutdown is going to do to the overall public health and the economy.
#DON’TBEALENKA
Well, in Austria (10 million inhabitants) there have been 74000 lay-offs since this monday, when the strict Corona measures came into effect. And laying people off is way more difficult in Europe than in the US, you really have to be on the verge of bankruptcy to be able to do so this quickly.
Update Friday evening: 100K new lay-offs, bringing the unemployement total up to 500K, from 400K on Monday, i.e. 25% growth in unemployment in 1 week only.
when skins are outlawed, only outlaws will be skinning…
Scott! The bumper sticker of the decade!
I skinned up yesterday at Jay Peak. They have a very progressive uphill travel policy, it is even allowed on the ski runs while lifts are operating.
But now all ski areas in Vermont have shut down. So with a sunny day ,fresh snow there were a good number out as we skied down. Some, just booting up, on the firm base. Fewer skiers than normal , as Quebecers will come down to Jay Peak for the open uphill policy, when lifts are closed, or after a storm. But I didn’t hear any French spoken yesterday; border with Canada had been closed.
Pretty heavenly, skiing down with 5 inches dry powder, on our mid-winter snow pack base . With my ski partner, we had first tracks down a few runs. We kept our distance on the skin track ; did 2 laps, after driving up in different cars.
Beautifully written! Thank you.
Legend has it if a dog pees on your leg in Aspen, the owner might throw a hundred dollar bill your way.
Out here in the West Kootenays we are not allowed to skin up the resort until tear down is complete as there are still cats running with winch’s etc. The chance for injury is extra. Once teardown is complete it’s good to go.
Garrett! The fun of ancient history…
Bridger Bowl (Montana), now also closed, has been packed w uphill enthusiasts of all types this week. Lucky for us, the land is public and upon closure of Commercial services (operating ski resort), the normally prohibited practice of uphill travel reverts back to the privileges of the free man and woman. Snow conditions are good. Freedom is good.
SIBERELL
Also the Bridger Bowl parking lot has been packed with people congregating in large groups which is why Bridger Bowl is about to close the parking lot and the lower half of the ski area which is not on forest service land.
Lou, you captured the moment, the movement. the sadness and the happiness. Your uphill time between the ears is well spent.
Mt Bachelor has been closed this week and their conditions report page indicates they will use law enforcement to enforce the no-uphill policy currently in place. I can see both sides of the story as they hope to re-open for Spring Break and I’m sure they have been busy with maintenance etc. But it will be a growing issue for them to deal with as Bend reaches 100,000.
Great post Lou! Always an inspiration!
In the Wasatch, it’s the skinners who pee everywhere (glad I don’t live in Sandy, the compromised-watershed capital of Utah), but there’s unlimited solo skiing in the Wasatch if one is willing to explore outside of the tri-Canyons.
This won’t be popular, but consider even one injury sustained while skinning either in the bc or at the ski area that requires medical attention will increase for our healthcare providers. It could jeopardize the uphill at ski areas in general should something happen, which none of us want. Consider the long-term impact before you go given nearly all mountain communities are telling people to stay away as they have insufficient caregivers to take care of you in this moment. It’s easy to say you’ll go easy, but it’s also easy to forget when you are in the moment skiing in untracked pow.
and make sure you don’t use a ladder, and definitely arrest anyone that stands up in a bathtub. take a look at any E.R stats and those 2 things outweigh bc ski injuries by a mile. Hope you’re out all over the bathtub and ladder blogs preaching, Tim.
I’ll second Tim’s comment about not stressing hospitals ERs and personnel. The current restrictions with associated fines in the French Alps, for example, are not to avoid the spread of the disease but to free up helicopters, first responders, and healthcare personnel to handle critical corona virus cases.
Until the resorts in the Alps were forced to close, being in the mountains was not as safe from being infected as one might think:
https://www.politico.eu/article/the-austrian-ski-town-that-spread-coronavirus-across-the-continent/
@Lenka K. – in France you can leave home to exercise as long as it is an individual sport like running or cycling. Most authorities are asking people to remain within a 500 meter radius of there homes.
In Tyrol you’re not allowed to practice ANY sports at all, no biking, no running etc. You’re only allowed to go alone for a walk within your municipality.
Bavaria has somewhat softer measures so far, but as Austria was officially declared “a role model”, it certainly won’t take long before similiar bans will take effect.
Not skiing because many can’t. Don’t want to feel “lucky” that I can still ski while the entire country struggles like never before. Not even riding my bike. I did my last turns two weeks ago just as the first patch of corn snow appeared. I could go skin today somewhere quite easily. I need to stop any non-essential sports activity so I don’t’end up putting pressure on medical systems is another reason mentioned by others. Being over 60 , my overall risk drives my thoughts on this. It’s super tight in WA in hospitals. Even a broken leg by anyone, not just a skier, puts pressure on the system. Getting plenty of exercise with long hard walks for now. Find some sport that greatly reduces your risk of injury for now, preferably outside.
love the perspective and the insight lou!!
The entitlement and selfishness of some in the ski and climbing community is really disappointing right now. Public health authorities, doctors and nurses on the front lines pleading with folks to stay close to home. Our local hill is closed yet the webcam on the lodge deck shows folks not distancing having cold beers and good times as if it’s business as usual. Somehow it doesn’t apply to people these Free folks and ‘outlaws’. who don’t give a crap for the greater good. Your lack of leadership in this regard is really surprising.
My backcountry skiing barely existed this season BEFORE this virus invaded. Now I must consider giving up my cycling? Hard for me to swallow.
A(nother) good day to clean velcro…
Lou,
Thank you for your post.
1. I am eternally grateful that I live in the Aspen valley. The SkiCo has continued to maintain a groomed track on all four mountains for the past three weeks which I deem as over the top extraordinary maintenance for our community to enjoy.
2. I got the virus. It sucked for a week but overall wasn’t so bad. I count myself lucky. My wife too. I bought all three of my girls uphill touring gear for Christmas. Lucky timing now that two are home from college. The opportunity to commune on the hill together and skin to the top of Buttermilk, Aspen, Snowmass and Highlands has been truly a blessing. I count myself lucky.
3. Don’t stop getting outside. For our mental health – a good skin, a good ride on the road bike or mountain bike, or a good hike is good for the soul and can work wonders for those in your sphere of influence who you impact. Don’t stop taking care of your self just because others are suffering. Go outside because you can and share that positive energy with everyone around you (especially those who can’t but CAN live vicariously.
These are challenging times to be sure – but this too shall pass.
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