(Addendum, 1/9/2020. After more days of field testing, I’ve concluded the locking lever on my set of Xenic is too difficult to pull up by hand. Moreover, the brakes tend to not deploy when exiting the ski. I like the design philosophy of the Xenic, especially the side release at the toe, but it’s possible this freshman effort might need another iteration. On the other hand, it’s possible I have a pre-retail version and need to be using the latest consumer version. Watch this space for more.)
Zee Xenic is scenic. Sorry, I could not resist the alliteration. And it is.
Detailed look at the new Fritschi Xenic 10
As an unabashed fan of classic tech bindings (pins and boot fittings at toe and heel, spring loaded tow wings, etc.), I’m excited to see Fritschi go retro with their new Xenic binding. The new grabber indeed harkens to the classic side, with a few twists, and perhaps improvements. Follow along for a technical look.
Boot compatibility
Might as well get one shining question answered first. It is right there in the Xenic user manual: “…The boot must fulfill the standard DIN ISO 9523.” Sorry oh ye hopefuls, the binding according to Fritschi is thus not compatible with the Dynafit Speed Nose boots such as Hoji Pro, nor is it compatible with boots having “trimmed” soles, such as many skimo race boots. OR!? Update: Commenter JBO chimed in and said the dealer manual for the binding says all boot are compatible. And he suggested that removing the red plastic toe bumper allows a Speed Nose boot to work. Perhaps so, and I did try it after he suggested. The Speed Nose boot did have more travel, but still less than a 9523 boot. Sounds like this’ll be yet another reason brick-and-mortar retailers exist. (I had some photos here showing the boot stride, they were slightly misleading so I removed them. If necessary I’ll post up a few better ones.)
Binding screw hole pattern.
The binding heel mount plate of all other Fritschi none-frame ski touring bindings appears to be interchangeable with Xenic. As for the binding toe unit, the front two screw holes are the same layout as those of Tecton. With other Fritschi bindings such as Evo, certain pairs of toe holes match up, but using them fore/aft repositions the toe enough to not be acceptable. Your mileage with swapping will vary, point being if you desire a binding swap there’s a chance you won’t need a full set of new screw holes. Screw length was cross-compatible as well; I did not have to deepen the existing holes.
Screw depth measures same as Tecton, making my swap easier.
Tecton front pair of screw holes match those of Xenic. Rear mounting plates are all interchangeable but watch for maximum fore/aft rear unit adjustments if you play around with swapping.
The two rear holes of the front Vipec or Tecton will need to be filled during a swap, or in my case temporarily sealed with duct tape.
Toe
Next, how about the clamping force of those toe jaws? In my estimation, the strength of the classic tech binding toe jaw spring provides resistance to accidental release. I didn’t have my super duper test rig activated, but I did get repeatable results by simply pressing the heel of a boot to the side with my force gauge. In a way, this is the most realistic test, provided you’re consistent with using the same boots between different bindings. Using a boot with Dynafit certified tech fittings, I got 61.4 N with a Dynafit Radical, and 55.35 N with Xenic. I’d call both “average.” Would prefer a modicum more resistance, but neither binding could be called weak. (Bear in mind these numbers are for comparison only, they have little relation to actual release values.)
Check retention sans heel unit, to determine toe clamping force.
Perhaps the most important note on the toe: with most tech bindings, the toe wings undergo a compound out-and-down motion while opening up. The Xenic wings open only horizontally away from the boot toe fittings. This is said to make for a smoother release that’s less likely to accidentally “pre-release.” That’s difficult to test, but could be a good thing. The movement pattern of the Xenic wings could have another advantage. As they don’t have a midsection that dips down while opening, ice buildup under (or inside) the binding might not be the issue it is with most tech bindings.
Another “toe thing.” The trigger zone your boot toe presses down on while entering the binding is perhaps a little sensitive, especially if snow and ice are built up on your boot, but it’s better than a binding that doesn’t snap closed without fiddling around. Along with that, Xenic does have a boot toe locating bumper, intended to make stepping in easier. Overall, I’d call the step-in action of the toe “excellent.” See video at the end of this post, it clearly demonstrates all this.
Heel unit
The Xenic heel is a similar action to other classic tech bindings. One appreciated feature is separate adjustments for side and upward retention/release tension. Friction is noticeable during hand rotation of heel unit between downhill and uphill modes. This caused an increase in required hand strength (for rotating between touring and downhill modes) compared to that required by other brands. You’ll get used it (fold down the heel lifter for leverage). Note the tech pins are free to roll, as they’re not part of a U-spring configuration. This eases step-in force and reduces wear. The internal “spindle” or “heel tower” is said to be 40 millimeters in diameter. As this is a traditional tech binding weak point, good on that.
The release/retention tension adjustment screws are odd. They are pozidrive #2 (normal binding screws are pozi #3). Even the nearly infinite WildSnow tool collection is missing smaller pozi drivers. This was remedied with a quick visit to Amazon. But still. Can’t the Xenic adjustment screws be something more compatible with your multi-tool? As they are, you can hack-adjust using a small flat-blade screwdriver (as pictured) or a Phillips #2 driver. In the case of the Phillips, experiment with different ones, some of the number twos in my collection fit better than others. But use a pozi if you plan on changing settings often, or risk damaging the adjustment screw heads.
Underside of Xenic heel unit, showing ski flex compensation spring. The Xenic is specified for a 1 millimeter heel gap, flex compensation is thus mandatory due to the boot heel pressing against the heel unit as the ski flexes in use. Compensation travel distance appears to be 13 millimeters, though various sources say it’s 10. Either way, good enough.
Heel lift
Only two heights available: heel flat on ski, or moderately high. No intermediate, no super-high. This could be a concern for North American skin tracks, not so much in Europe where the tradition is lower-angled efficient tracks. See the numbers here.
Two heel lift heights. Either heel flat on ski, or moderately high. Most skiers can get used to this. Those who need a fine-tuned heel lift will want a binding with three choices.
Boot length adjustment
16 millimeters, utilizing heel base-plate adjustment track as with Fritschi Vipec, Evo, Tecton.
General retention and release action
Toe operates similar (but not the same) to most other classic tech bindings. In a release, toe wings simultaneously open under spring tension as boot twists to side. With most tech bindings, while the wings open they also rotate slightly downward, this might cause a misalignment when elasticity is demanded during downhill skiing. The Xenic wings open horizontally, with zero downward movement. In theory this makes the binding less prone to accidental release, as well as making it easier to clip in. As for the heel unit, it rotates to provide release, with adjustable release/retention.
Entry in deep powder
When stomping your boot heel to enter Xenic in downhill mode, your boot heel has to slip down and past the ~90 degree angled “shelf” of the binding housing. If the ski is heavily flexed while you’re standing in deep powder, it’s possible your boot heel will will be obstructed by the binding housing — frustrating. Xenic is not the only binding out there with this little gotcha. It is not a deal breaker. But be aware and learn how to deal with your bindings in deep powder (hint, create solid platform before clipping in, or learn to clip your boot heel in without fully weighting the ski).
Ramp angle and pin heights
Boot ramp is similar to early tech bindings, an angle we like. Pin heights above ski are average. See the numbers here.
Brake
The available ski brake is where I had a few minor issues. First, if you home-mount, be prepared to don your Sherlock Holmes cap. Like figuring out some of the other Fritschi brakes, this one will tax your proprioception, visual acuity, hand strength, tool set, reaction time and intramuscular coordination. (To be fair, Fritschi does include brake assembly instructions with the binding, but still, I found the install taxed my psyche.) Then after the claw is installed, to operate it you’ll need what I’d term above-average hand strength. But the brake does work, and it becomes easier to operate after you’re accustomed to it (hint, fold down the heel lifter for better leverage). A kudo: the brake has the desirable feature of reliably retracting with zero(!) chance of popping open while you are touring. That’s the only type of touring binding brake I can unequivocally recommend.
Brake is firmly and reliably stowed when you rotate heel to touring mode.
Mounting screw pattern
Front 33 x 44 mm, rear (short non-demo plate) 27.5 x 60 mm
I did make my usual template for our esteemed WildSnow readers. It’s here. Let me know if you have trouble with it.
Weight, 2019/2010 Fritschi Xenic ski touring binding
Toe unit with screws: 118 grams
Heel unit with screws and stock heel plate, no brake: 184 grams
Total, no brake:302 grams
Brake, 105 mm: 48 grams
MSRP is worth mentioning, at $429.95 this could be an excellent introductory binding.
Overall impressions and conclusions
I see no significant concerns with this grabber. Durability is of course unknown until consumer “testing” commences (as always, I recommend giving any new tech binding a season of retail vetting before purchase, but early adoption is of course a North American tradition, so have at it if you will). The heel rotation action exhibits a slight grabby friction feel when rotating by hand; under normal skiing forces this is probably a non-issue. Remember that Fritschi says you can only use DIN/ISO 9523 boots (though this may be subject to change, see comments). The subtle “horizontal” action of the toe wings might mitigate accidental release and icing problems. Overall, a clean effort by Fritschi that honors yet intelligently departs from the tech bindings of yore.
Shop Cripple Creek for your own pair of Fritschi Xenic.
39 comments
Hi Lou, you should be able to use speed nose boots if you remove the red positioner. The dealer docs say all touring boots are compatible.
JBO, I have to somewhat disagree on that. The consumer documents in the box say otherwise. To quote exactly:
“…the boot must fulfil the standard DIN ISO 9523.”
So, can’t blame me for going with it! Removing the red bumper appears to give slightly more travel in touring stride, but still slightly less than a 1394 soled boot. So I’ll go ahead and add your point to the review, with a caveat and perhaps a scold at Fritschi for the conflicting info. Sigh.
Lou
Hey Lou,
I recently bought the Xenic online and would like to mount them personally. I already reached out to Fritschi via E-Mail but they don’t seem to bother as I never got an reply. So you see the possibility to provide us with an mounting template. Would be higly appreciated.
Thx!
Hi Falco, thanks for asking. Curious, did you ask the folks where you bought the binding? There is a Fritschi template floating around, not sure I have permission to publish it. I probably need to re-do in my own document. Lou
I wonder what is the distance between front & rear toe screws? I guess also the rear screws are set 44 mm apart, so a ?? x 44 mm pattern?
Hi Lou. I measured the pin heights as 32mm for the toe and 46.25mm for the heel.
Hey Lou,
yes I did ask the Folks where I bought the binding. They told me they´re only able to receive the metal template (=200 bucks) for mounting duties in their shop and there seems no paper template available. Which means no template at the moment available for public…
Hi, I think this binding’s closest competitor is the G3 Zed From what I can tell:
– Zed has 3 heel risers. Proven easy to use toe entry. Already ran for 1 season to work out the kinks (stiffer heel compression springs). only 90 degree rotation needed for transition, less plastic?
– Xenic has independent horizontal/vertical release, cool new toe clamps, a good bit lighter
Anything else anyone can think of? Thanks!
Hi Lou, the consumer docs had that bit copied from the Vipec/Tecton. I’m told it will be removed in the future since all “common” touring boots are compatible.
Fair enough JBO, I’ll be sure to keep this post updated. Lou
Konsta, front 33 x 44 mm, rear (short non-demo plate) 27.5 x 60 mm The front dim is from Fritschi, I measured the rear (hopefully I did better than when I measured the pin heights). Thanks for asking, I’ll add this to my specs in the review.
Jon, thanks, I must be slipping, or in too much of a hurry! I measured again when I had more time, and upped my methods for better accuracy. I get 32 toe and 46.3 heel, using digital caliper, with a boot fitting in the toe, and the heel unit removed from the ski, with base plate included. I’ll use those. I’d be lost without you guys! Lou
https://www.wildsnow.com/10733/get-up-rise-up-stand-up-for-your-ramp/
Falco, I took a morning and made a template. I’m not sure how we’re going to handle this sort of thing in the future, but for now I figured I’d just default to my style of community service. Be sure to check your printer scaling, and check all dimensions with the actual binding. If the template doesn’t work for you, let us know here in the comments.
https://www.wildsnow.com/backcountry-ski-pdfs/xenic-template-1-2019.pdf
Thanks, Lou, for the measurements!
Knut Pohl’s template for vipec/tecton specifies the heel pattern as 28 x 60 mm, and I’ve had great success with that template.
“One appreciated feature is separate adjustments for side and upward retention/release tension.”
Does one screw adjust both?? I can’t find the second screw on mine.
Wow…thanks Lou!
Didn´t expect you beeing so fast. Will let you know when I´ve mounted them. Probably next week.
Thank you very much!
At the „Alpin Messe“ in Insbruck Austria last week I asked Stefan Burki from FRITSCHI marketing about the compartibility of the Dynafit Hoji with speed nose and the new Fritschi Xenic 10.
He told me, thats no problem.
Hmmm. Isn’t that a Scarpa F1 in the video at the end of the article? I thought the F1 did not comply with ISO 9523 which the Xenic reportedly requires for compatibility.
I just heard from Black Diamond customer support. They informed me that boots which are not ISO 9523 compliant are *not* compatible with the Xenic.
Does it have to do with the tread height for proper functioning of the toe closure? I know Vipecs and Tectons are sensitive about this. In other words, they work, but stepping in will be finicky.
You’ve listed the BSL adjustability as 16mm, I’d read elsewhere that it is 25mm. Fritschi don’t seem to list this on their website information! Given my boots range by 25mm (Scarpa F1 330mm in a 31, Salomon QST Pro TR 355mm in 30.5), this is quite a crucial stat for me. I’d much prefer a pair of bindings that will allow me to use more than one pair of boots in them, just because sometimes things happen, and you may want to use a different pair of boots in the future. Given the Marker Alpinists only offer 15mm of travel (but also offer a long travel version), 25mm would be a bit of an advantage on these. Can you confirm if it is actually only 16mm though?
Do the brakes remove/attach easily (to add them for day on resort)?
Tom,
BSL adjustability is definitely 25 mm. Maybe you can squeeze out even more.
Knut Pohls template for the Vipec actually works very well in regard to heel placement.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Gerald, happy these have the 25mm of range. Now, if I could just figure out how to install the brakes…
I think there is an extended heel mounting plate that would allow even greater range for boot soles, but I may be misremembering a conversation with my local ski shop. Pretty sure. He said it uses the same four holes as the standard plate but the extension requires 2 more screws. They had them for demos.
Alan, yes, it’s the mount plate used for the demo version of the binding. Whether it’s available as a stand-alone SKU is something I don’t know, perhaps ask the retailer?
I just got a pair of xenic 10’s I tried them with my dynafit speed toe boot (tlt7) and I don’t think they work correctly. I didn’t try to take out the red piece. You can tell there isn’t enough toe in front to activate the locking mechanism. Plus on the Fritschi website there are some images of “go / no go” boots. It’s fairly clear they don’t want you using the speed toe boots. Bummer. Also I have a template from black diamond. Works great and has the whole bsl slider thingy if you want it, let me know. I can forward it to you.
HILLEL POSNER I would love the Xenic template you say that you have. I have a customer that has just brought one in for mounting and instead of using a combo of the Vipec and Xenic template to get the BSL spacing close, I’d love to check out the one that you have. Thanks much!! Darryl@nymans-ski-shop.com
Hi,
It would be great to have the Xenic template from BD. Messed up the first mount on skis and was kinda annoyed. Sending it over would be greatly appreciated.
Email – skrublowe@gmail.com
I got a pair of Xenic 10s and I am using them with a Scarpa Masstrale RS (ISO 9523 certified). I am having a hard time switching the toe piece into walk mode without using a tremendous amount of force. I also had trouble taking the binding back into ski mode from walk mode while touring. In fact, the bumper snapped off the toe piece when it finally released. I did remove the red piece and that did not change the level of difficulty switching to walk mode.
Hi nate, I had the same problem as you. I had to take both hands to pull the front lever.
I went to me dealer. They changed the toe part. Now ist works – with my Scarpa F1 and the Hoji.
I have heard they had problems with the Front levers in their prototypes. Maybe I got one.
I did not remove the red piece
I’m having some concerns with the Xenic, mainly the force required to pull the toe locking lever up check this post for updates. Could be that I’ve got the prototypes instead of retail version, but I’ve used two different sets and had the same concern. Lou
One post bevor i wrote that, after changing the toe part, it works….
Not at all…. I hope somebody finds a solution.
I have the same problem getting the lever from ski to walk mode, it’s vitually impossible., especially in cold weather. I’m currently working with Black Diamond warranty dept. They are awesome to work with, so helpful and willing.
I also found that pulling the lever from ski to walk mode takes excessive force. I’ve been pulling up on it with my ski straps for extra leverage, and I have been worried that something is going to break. However, I just figured out that if you push down slightly on the tab that says “ski” in the gap in the lever while pulling up on the lever, then the lever pulls up easily. It’s easy to push on the ski tab with your thumb with bare hands or thin gloves. I have to use a ski pole tip when wearing thick gloves.
Paul, thank you so much. This workaround solved my problems with the toe lever!
Thanks for all the comments. I just got these for Christmas and had such a hard time putting them in walk mode…until the little piece that says, “ski” on it broke off! I have been searching the web for an hour until I found this thread. I haven’t called black diamond, but that is the next step. Just a warning. I’ll write again after I call BD
Agree with Lou’s comment about switching to walk mode. I’ve got one toe piece that works smoothly, and one that doesn’t. It operates smoothly without a boot clipped in, but requires a lot of force (yes, I was afraid I was going to break it too).
Additionally, I have one binding with a brake that doesn’t deploy consistently as well.
Buyer beware – super light weight, lots of plastic and perhaps not a completely baked product.
Does anybody have a link to the shop/service manual? Is there a 1 mm gauge for setting the gap or should I make one? I am going to add/remove brakes regularly which means resetting the gap.