Search for the Lost Biner and Other OR Show Tidbits

Post by blogger | July 30, 2018      
Tommy Caldwell presentation.

Tommy Caldwell presentation was worthy, though the googler who kept fooling around with street view of El Cap needed to google up “how to drink less coffee.”

A day with no appointments, just walkin’ the floor like Ernest Tubs in love. Though I’m always on the defense against seduction, attempting to avoid the plight of Ernest. More Google today. The nosy beast from Mountain View put on a presentation by Tommy Caldwell covering his and Honnold’s El Capitan speed record. Super interesting.

I’ve got a bit of background on the Big Stone; could directly relate. Caldwell got into the ethics of speed climbing vs safety, and described some of the techniques they use. Such as “short fixing” that involves the leader tying off the rope so the second can keep pace by jumaring the anchored-fixed portion of the rope, while the leader climbs like a vertical sprinter towing a big loop of slack, which I suppose they could tie off for sections where a fall was more likely.

The El Cap speed climbing thing is intriguing from an ethics standpoint (as is mountaineering in general). With no governing body, yet careers resting on breaking records, one wonders if things could become contentious (or perhaps already are, while being well hidden by PR people?). For example, how much fixed gear is on the route. Case in point: Caldwell said the King Swing pendulum maneuver (a famous move on the Nose route) takes them about eleven minutes to get through — a huge amount of time when the entire ascent takes two hours. What if another party on the wall placed a fixed rope on the swing anchor and the speed climbers used it to simply rappel through the pendulum? Or what if the route had a dozen more pieces of fixed gear, than it did during your competitor’s attempt? Or, how about 6-foot long loops of sling material left on fixed anchors such as those of the famous final bolt ladder just below the top?

Choucas Light harness, 82 grams.

Blue Ice Choucas Light harness, 82 grams. Every show has a few standouts. These French (and apparently also U.S.) guys have one mission: make mountaineering gear that weighs nothing. The titanium ice axes are amazing as well. As seen on the waist of Andrzej Bargiel, doing his first ski descent of K2 on July

Experimenting with garda hitch (alpine clutch).

My son Louie has been experimenting with lightweight glacier rescue systems, key is something that’ll clutch a 5 millimeter cord, garda hitch made with two ‘biners is said to work well with skinny rope. Safest with two locking carabiners of the latest generation, with gates that lock in clever ways such as these Edelrid Slider models.

Edelrid also had this little biner on display, perfect for minimalist setups.

Edelrid also had this little ‘biner on display, perfect for minimalist setups. Nineteen G is the model name.

I always make a point of cruising the lower budget newbies that the show people shoehorn here and there.

I always make a point of cruising the lower budget newbies that the show people shoehorn here and there. I run hot, my wife runs cold. I suggested she head over and check out the heated clothing while I geeked out on the Extreme Mist wearable misting machine. This thing is no joke, I hope the guy is successful.

Along those same lines, this inventor came up with a patented little gadget.

Along those same lines, this inventor came up with a patented little gadget that converts a disposable water bottle into a free flowing shower. You can sort of do the same thing by inverting a tea kettle over your head, this appeared to work much better.

And then, the trail food.

And then, the trail food.

Always a few players from the jungle world of CBD. These guys seemed fairly legit.

Always a few players from the jungle world of hemp and marijuana products. The CBD component of those storied weeds is gaining reputation as an effective pain killer and anti-inflamatory. As a result I’ve noticed quite a bit of buzz regarding how difficult it is to figure out what brand CBD is free from unhealthy contaminants, delivers labeled percentage, and lacks THC content to the extent it won’t trigger a positive on a drug test and is legal for air travel. The booth tender at the Arcaneum (Mary’s Nutritionals) stand talked a good talk. Their transdermal CBD “Gel Pen” was intriguing.


Please Enjoy A Few Suggested WildSnow Posts


6 Responses to “Search for the Lost Biner and Other OR Show Tidbits”

  1. Marek July 31st, 2018 3:52 am

    I’m quite surprised that you post about some irrelevant CBD products while Bargiel scored first descent of K2 just a few days ago, which is absolutely milestone of entire skimo history and you haven’t wrote a single word about it.

  2. Lou Dawson 2 July 31st, 2018 6:50 am

    Thanks for keeping me on track Marek. Many websites covered Bargiel, Planet Mountain has a good report that I linked to in the blog post above, and I added links to comments a few days ago. Nonetheless, most certainly, I’ll add the K2 descent to next news roundup.

    Covering it in a special blog post that just regurgitated content from other websites wasn’t particularly inspiring me. Perhaps at some point I can do some coverage of Bargiel specific to

    Regarding our health coverage, it’s not irrelevant. Ski mountaineering athletes encounter all sorts of health challenges. So we try to stay on top of diet and drug issues that might help specifically with sports injuries and medical issues.


  3. Marek August 1st, 2018 4:01 am

    Thanks for answer Lou. I understand your point, however you made Wildsnow to be probably the best skimo related blog and I’d rather prefere to read about things related more closely to the main topic, especially when such extraordinary things happen.

  4. Sather Ekblad August 1st, 2018 1:11 pm

    Not to sound crazy but…..I’d argue that support of our modest and hardworking glial cells is relevant to more skiers than skiing K2. It’s cool. CBD is cooler.

    Doc Ekblad

  5. Aaron Mattix August 1st, 2018 9:02 pm

    More people will use CBD than will ever set foot on K2.

  6. Lou Dawson 2 August 2nd, 2018 7:00 am

    Appreciate all the feedback you guys. I’ll chime in again: Skiing K2 is most certainly important, but this is a blog, my mission as such is to publish opinion writing that readers might enjoy… so long as something is related to mountaineering it’s fair game, including health supplements for sports medicine. When covering something like K2, what works best is if we give it a few days for news sites such as Planet Mountain and Rock and Ice to publish, then riff on the information they provide. Sometimes we get the privilege of being “first” with newsy infos (usually about gear), but again, usually we’re just a blog. And thanks for visiting.

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