While it’s easy to grab your skis, poles, boots and skins without a second thought, a little gear check in now will go a long way come winter.
Now — not in the middle of a hut trip in February — is a great time to give your gear the TLC needed to help it perform flawlessly through another season. In this Tech Tuesday post sponsored by Dynafit, we revamp our classic pre-season gear check with feedback from readers and a WildSnow Pre-season Gear Checklist you can even print and gorilla glue to your garage ski bench. Don’t let this be the season when you’re That Guy whose binding screws just happened to worm out of their sockets while you were charging up that next lap deep in the backcountry.
“I was just skiing along and. . .” disaster. A morning full of excitement of the much anticipated earning of turns is thwarted by a faulty piece of equipment that leaves you cursing at the trailhead or sends you home early.
Ski touring gear is expensive and much is built to be so minimalist and lightweight that we are asking for problems if we don’t treat it with some tender love and care. You wouldn’t drive a brand new car off the lot and expect it to perform flawlessly over the years without some oil changes, part replacement and attention to detail. Hopefully, by paying attention to your gear and performing simple checks a few times a season, you can catch malfunctions before smoke starts billowing from under the hood.
Throughout my years of ski shop work, I have seen hundreds of sudden failures, both on customers’ gear and even my own. The problems often seem to come out of nowhere, when just the day before your gear looked shiny and eager to propel you up and down the mountains. But this stuff doesn’t really come out of the great mysteries of the universe. Most often, there are warning signs. To that end, how about a checklist? (Please note, below is oriented to tech bindings, but the concepts apply to frame binding systems as well.)
Bindings
We ask a lot of ski bindings whose weight has now dipped under 200 grams and yet still firmly hold you to your skis. Speeds of up to 50 mph and variable and snow condition can now be skied, but the margin for error in your gear is smaller than ever.
__Check all binding mounting screws. If screws are loose, back them all the way out and add wood glue or epoxy to the hole and tighten back down. In Lou’s opinion, epoxy is better in this situation, but wood glue does work.
__Make sure binding is completely flat to ski, not “screw jacked.” This is a common problem and leads to all sorts of failures.
__Check for cracks, especially in the heel piece of binding, but examine the metallic toe plate as well (use a magnifying glass or 2x reading glasses).
__Check all machine screws for tightness. If a screw has backed out add Loctite and tighten down. These screw heads can be easy to strip so pay attention and go easy when retightening. If you’ve never done this and feel uncomfortable with it, seek the services of a professional binding technician.
__Click both boots into bindings and check heel spacing. There is nothing worse than getting the top of a ski line and realizing a friend was the last to use your gear in the spring
Repairable or not?
Skis
Skis vary immensely in strength and durability. Yet common to all, the stress they endure is amazing — and breakage isn’t exactly rare. Catching an issue before you ski it gives you a chance to repair or retire a ski before catastrophic failure.
__Examine skis for delaminations in top sheet and sidewalls. If you find cracks, add epoxy and clamp with medium tightness before water has a chance to permeate the core.
__Examine bases for dimples or core shots. Fill core shots with P-tex. If core shots are large (over a cm wide) you may want to visit a shop for a more serious repair.
__Check bases for wax. If the base looks white or dry it is time for wax. This is essential for backcountry skiers to avoid dry bases pulling off skin glue.
Skins
Does the state of your climbing skins reflect your personality, or just how busy you are? If you can tell the color of your dog’s hair from looking at your skins, or they’ve been cursed at so much they seem to curl up on their own, time to look at how they’re treated.
__Check skin glue for balling and general stickiness. Adding a little glue can help you scrape through a season and prevent you from wallowing in the backcountry. New “glueless” skins like the Tipon from Pomoca can be cleaned fairly effectively.
__Check tip and tail attachment on skins. Make sure all parts and pieces are there and in good condition. Watch for little tears around attachments that could start growing.
__Organize skins. If you use multiple setups and find yourself pawing through a pile of skins in the morning before a trip, perhaps it’s time to figure out a storage system. A simple approach is to have a dedicated bag for each set of skins, with the ski designation written on it.
Poles
__Check pole baskets to make sure they are firmly secure
__Inspect shaft for cracks.
__If you’ve got pole straps that are hard to adjust or broken, now is the time for a swap.
Boots
Sometimes, ski boots just seem to charge along for years with nary a problem. But. Especially when it comes to the boot being a key part of the binding due to tech fittings, attention to detail is vital for performance and safety.
Check rivet for play in cuff.
__Check those machine screws again and add Loctite. A loose buckle can become a missing buckle if these are not routinely checked.
__Add a small coat of white lithium grease to the ski/walk mechanism to prevent it from sticking in one mode or the other.
__Overly worn cuff pivot rivet: check by manipulating cuff to see if there is excess play. Tips for rivet repair here. And don’t forget the Ultimate Cuff Pivot for your Dynafits. These are not exactly the easiest DIY projects but can be done at home. Any fairly active and reputable ski touring shop has probably installed a few.
__Check tech heel fitting to make sure it’s firmly fixed to boot. Tighten screws, remove and bed in J-B Weld if needed.
__Check boot function in several different new tech bindings, especially by doing a hand check of lateral release. If boot behaves poorly in a variety of new bindings, it’s possible the tech fittings are worn.
Beacon
Your beacon needs maintenance also. Check out our full post on pre-season beacon checks.
Miscellany
Of course, technical gear isn’t the only thing that needs TLC. Your soft goods probably could use some love too. Consider a DWR refresher wash on your shell jacket and pants, along with some mink oil or other leather proofing on your gloves. Has your down jacket been encased in a stuff sack all summer? Now’s a good time to air it out and maybe toss it in the wash too. Do your goggle lenses look like they’ve survived passage through a war zone? Could be time for an upgrade, or at least a lens switch up. And if your helmet is more than five years old, shows obvious cracking or has sustained some blows, it could be a good time to retire it.
Stay tuned in the coming weeks for a full pre-season beacon post and rundown of essential repair kit parts, both for humans and gear. And feel free to add your two cents in the comments below.
14 comments
Thanks Maciej, we were focusing more on the ski gear side, but we should keep the checklist going in the comments, and widen the scope! Beacon batteries especially!
Re. the first picture: it’s weird how the metal binding plate is on top of the glass layer on some skis, like the one pictured and the Huascaran. In my opinion, epoxy is mandatory for mounting in this construction (and also good for filling old holes, especially in a swiss cheese mount).
yeah you can re-iron old glue with an iron (higher temp than waxing) over some parchment paper but really take it as the sign to get a tube of gold label cuz its time to reglue
To add to this. Don’t assume a brand new pair of skis and freshly mounted bindings are mounted properly. You’ll end up like me last season taking a rescue sled down the mountain because the idiot you paid to mount your setup didn’t know what they were doing.
So double check everything, especially someone elses work.
If you binding mounting screws are loose, there is a chance that moisture got inside the ski and the wood core started desintegrating. In this case, wood glue won’t do, epoxy could do it if the screw hole is more or less intact, but the best thing to do is to redrill slightly larger and put a metal insert: DIY if you can buy inserts, or a good and reliable (!) ski touring shop !
Also, change the batteries of your beacons no matter if they have only a few outings.
“Epoxy” you say. What kind of epoxy? There are so many kinds out there…
Chris, try entering the word “epoxy” in our search box at top of page. You’ll get a lot of hits. I mostly use cheap hardware store epoxy because I don’t want it too strong, and I want it heat sensitive so I can back screws out without breaking them. Ski shops often use Double Bubble. Cheap hardware store epoxy isn’t the strongest, it tends to crack. Lou
Great Article guys! Checking the gear before heading out seems basic, but is easy to forget.
A couple of other gear things I check:
Replace beacon batteries and test the beacon. Also, if your beacon is out of warranty consider a new one (the current Pieps and Mammut stuff is notably easy to use).
Check your hydration gear. Is your reservoir or water bottle scummy? Clean or replace.
Check the gear in your pack, especially the first aid kit. Replace expired pills (Benadryl, Ibuprofen, etc.) and any first aid tape more then a couple of years old (it deteriorates). Check and wash (as needed) the spare gloves and hats that have sat in your pack all summer. Also, throw out that 8 month old (and expired) energy bar that’s still in the snack pouch on your hip belt.
Check your goggles. Is the foam in good shape? How about the lenses? Replace lenses (or goggles) as needed.
Check your apparel. Patch or mend the holes in your shell layer, wash and restore the DWR coating. Is your down jacket fresh and fluffy, or did you forget to air it out over the summer and leave it in a compression sack? Take it out, air it out and wash as needed. Are your base layers in good shape? Does your favorite touring shirt have perma-funk? If you replace them, your touring partners will appreciate it.
If you use a helmet, check that too. If it’s 5 years (or more) old, replace it (helmets degrade even if they don’t take a hit). If there are any dents in your helmet, replace it. Helmets are designed to crush under impact, but it’s a one-time trick. If your helmet is in good shape, you can wash it with soapy water if needed.
Renew skin’s glue: I don’t think I’ve seen that tip anywhere on the interweb before, but I’ve been doing that several times with great success: ironing the old glue makes it super sticky again. Yes, the glue will look terrible but I don’t care as they stick to my skis again !
Ironically, it was my (mostly non-skiing) wife that recently reminded me that I finished last season riding a pair of snowboard boots that were so blown out I could stick a finger right through the shell to scratch my foot. Add that expense to the list…
Hi Great article as ever! Something else I’d add is to remember back to any gear niggles you’ve been procrastinating over. Those little things that you keep forgetting about until you’re back on the hill. One of mine is to investigate why the ski/walk mechanism on my La Sportiva Spectre II can occasionally take forever to engage into downhill mode, maybe the white Lithium grease mentioned is all that’s needed but definitely want to avoid those anxious minutes at the top of a big descent wondering if this is time they decide not to lock.
Great addition Peter. I have a habit of letting gloves go way past their prime. Each ski day the fingers look a little more like duct tape…
For down jackets: wash them regardless of whether or not they seem dirty. They will loft much better and last longer. Clean and lube zippers, especially ones that don’t get washed: backpacks, boots, gaiters etc.
Buying a heat gun was one of the best ski maintenance purchases I’ve ever made. I originally bought it to home punch some boot shells but found it works a lot better for removing old skin glue then an iron. Also, I’ll use it to melt the wax into my skins every so often. Wax, melt, re-wax, melt…. It makes a huge difference.