Refreshing a Dynafit TLT5-P Boot with B&D UCP

Post by blogger | March 24, 2016      
Ready to mod. New life for the old fives.

Ready to mod. New life for the old fives.

I like stiff soled boots for up-and-down ski touring. Dynafit TLT5, on the other hand, is my favorite footwear for flatter slogs as the slight metatarsal flex helps me with some of my ankle and knee problems. They don’t make TLT5 anymore, but tens of thousands of the things are floating around the universe. In the case of the “P” version with carbon cuff, chances are the cuff pivots are worn due to the abrasive nature of the carbon composite. Solution: you can stick some of Bill Bollinger’s Ultimate Cuff Pivots in there to perform a resurrection. If the cuff pivots are super trashed you may not achieve perfect results, but the boots will be functional. In my case the boots had a fairly intact pivot system, so a UCP kit (lightweight version) popped in there like they were made for it. They are. If you want to do your own resurection, check out our previous UCP posts and hop on over to Bill’s website. All our BD pivots are on long-term-loan for durability testing. I’ve got some others in play as well and they simply don’t seem to wear out — but if they get sloppy you can easily pull apart and renew the plastic bushings.

FYI, I installed the UCP in my TLT6-P a short time after I began using them, several seasons ago. I must have more than 200 days on them by now and they’re holding up nicely.

Completed, ready for slog nation.

Completed, ready for slog nation.


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28 Responses to “Refreshing a Dynafit TLT5-P Boot with B&D UCP”

  1. Harpo March 24th, 2016 10:11 am

    Lou, I eventually ran into problems with the rivets around the flex zone at the front of my tlt5ps. A pro put in replacements but they kept popping out. Have u has this problem? So far I am very happy with my green sixes.

  2. Lou Dawson 2 March 24th, 2016 10:58 am

    Harpo, I’ve not had that happen nor have I seen it. If mine popped out, believe me, I could put some back in that would never come out. I guess I’m not a pro (grin). Green Six is the best boot Dynafit has ever made. Period. End of discussion? I hope not (grin). Lou

  3. arnie March 24th, 2016 2:07 pm

    Agreed green six rules!
    However heel hold in my 5’s was better ..”like a toothless bear”… narrower heel? ..or that met flex?

  4. TimZ March 24th, 2016 2:34 pm

    I have had the same issue with one front rivet so far. Recently upgraded to the Sportiva Syborg, but I’m keeping the TLT5P around for my 105 underfoot skis.

    Someday I’ll rig a closure/ski mode like the Alien or Syborg and the boot may be perfect

  5. Wayne March 24th, 2016 3:20 pm

    One of the problems with dynafit boots in my opinion is the window on the cuff that the tooth fits through for ski mode. After time (especially in the carbon/fiberglass cuffs) the window gets larger, and the metal on the tooth gets worn, which makes the boot have some slop that is hard if not impossible to go away. I replaced my original rivets with the UCP, but that didn’t do anything for the cuff window slop. Great boots, but I wish they’d fix that issue!

  6. Lou Dawson 2 March 24th, 2016 3:28 pm

    Me, I don’t mind the “slop” as it works as progressive flex. I like a little movement, have never felt the need for “steel pipe” rigidity. I agree, however, that anything that wears and changes is unfortunate in a general sense, since it would not have been that difficult to mold in a small steel window so the only wear would be on the buckle, which is replaceable. Lou

  7. Drew Tabke March 24th, 2016 5:48 pm

    TLT5P: (Still the) Best boot ever?

  8. Lou Dawson 2 March 24th, 2016 5:52 pm

    It has been a fun ride. Was an honor to be there in Europe when Fede pulled the TLT5 out of the bag and presented it to 30 or so journalists, we were awed, it was a moment in the history of ski touring that changed everything. Touring boots could cost $1,000, and they could be super high tech not just imitations of alpine boots…

  9. See March 24th, 2016 6:03 pm

    Wayne— for the carbon cuff— someone who is competent at composite material repair could probably scarf in a patch and recut the window to correct dimensions. But I don’t know the boots (bad idea Lou?) Maybe not worth the risk if you’re not confident it will be done right, or if the boots aren’t useable as is.

  10. See March 24th, 2016 6:04 pm

    Make that “maybe not worth the risk if the boots are useable as is.”

  11. Mark Worley March 24th, 2016 9:42 pm

    I hardly put in enough days to need them, still I think this mod is really cool.

  12. Lou Dawson 2 March 25th, 2016 8:05 am

    If you’re really concerned about some movement in the cuff due to wear of the “window” and tang on the upper buckle, the logical solution is to somehow make the buckle tang larger. For just a few runs, this can easily be done with some tape. A more permanent solution is perhaps a layer of metal wrapped over the tang. Honestly, I don’t think this is much of a real problem, but perhaps for the aggressive precision skier it is… Like I said above, me, I don’t mind a bit of extra movement in the cuff. Lou

  13. VtVolk March 25th, 2016 8:24 am

    For Wayne any anyone else with TLT5s with some “slop” in the forward lean, you should know that these boots (especially the Mountain non-carbon version) are highly coveted by hardboot splitboarders. We usually enlarge the slot for more forward lean or progressive flex anyway, so your worn out ones might be just what someone is looking for!

    I myself picked up a well used pair this winter, and just completed a big weekend tour in the Adirondacks in them a couple of weeks ago. Thanks to our El Nino winter, that meant a 16 mile mostly dry hike in these boots with a huge pack, some great crampon testing, and about 100 yards of actual riding. Type II fun, for sure. I survived with nary a blister, making these officially the best boots ever.

  14. ffelix March 25th, 2016 11:25 am

    Hey Harpo,

    I pop rivets all the time. Can’t seem to keep them in, and they are gone again shortly after replacing them. I tried steel rivets, too–same thing. I had to have the shells punched for width and I just assumed that this, in combination with the toe flex, was the source of the stress.

    At this point, I don’t really worry about it. The boots seem to ski and climb the same with or without the rivets, so it’s not really a problem. What is a problem is the buckles. They are pretty fragile and eventually get tweaked by rocks. I’ve changed out the top ones with the newer, two-piece models, and I’m working on getting a shop to order both halves of the toe buckle: just replacing the buckle half doesn’t work.

  15. Lou Dawson 2 March 25th, 2016 11:48 am

    For the rivets, you could probably drill the hole out a bit larger and just use a small machine screw and nut. Or a larger rivet. I popped a rivet on my TLT6 and used a 3/16 inch snowmobile rivet, I don’t think that puppy is going anywhere (grin). Lou

  16. Tom March 25th, 2016 12:43 pm

    Hi Lou, I’ve got a pair of TLT5p in reasonable condition, not too worn out at the pivot etc. and have come across some TLT 6 mountains for cheap. By the look of it, the cuff (except the buckles) is unchanged, is that correct? In principle could I retrofit my TLT5p carbon cuff onto the the TLT6m to make it s pseudo p? Cheers

  17. Lou Dawson 2 March 25th, 2016 1:20 pm

    Tom, the Carbon cuff has different size holes for pivot than the Mountain, but I just checked my pair of sacrificial Mountains and the hole in the cuff can be enlarge to accept the UCP bushing. Problem is the cuff thickness is different but that can be fixed. I don’t have same size TLT5 as I do 6, so I can compare the exact cuff shape but I suspect it’s the same, If it looks the same to you, get some UCP and have at it, you can always put everything back together using UCP or even get a boot fitter to re-rivet. Let us know how it goes. Lou

  18. TimZ March 25th, 2016 2:54 pm

    ffelix, I replaced my lower buckles with at ratcheting strap buckle like often found on nordic boots(and now found on the Sportiva Syborg)

    I love it, it doesn’t come undone when skating or booting and I can fine tune the tightness very well

  19. Lou Dawson 2 March 25th, 2016 3:31 pm
  20. peterr March 26th, 2016 10:11 am

    I don’t know if it’s OK to post this, but I have a pair for sale, with about a week of touring on them, size 9.5, in BC Canada, $500.

  21. Lou Dawson 2 March 26th, 2016 10:31 am

    Sure Peter, ok to post personal sales that are germane to the discussion… don’t post email addresses, however, use Facebook for contact or something like that. Lou

  22. peterr March 27th, 2016 12:18 pm

    Thanks Lou. My website has my contact info

  23. Patrick Fink March 28th, 2016 3:24 pm

    For what it’s worth, I have a pair of this with about a billion days on them– I brought up the cuff slop with dynafit and they payed shipping both ways, drilled out the cuff, and installed slightly larger pivots. We were back to day-1 tightness. They paid shipping both ways and charged me nothing. THAT is some customer service. I’d never pay extra for aftermarket mods before asking for OEM retrofit for free.

  24. Lou Dawson 2 March 28th, 2016 3:47 pm

    That’s good to hear Patrick, but what happens when they wear out again? UCP doesn’t wear out… or if it does, new bushings go in 20 minutes. Lou

  25. Harpo March 29th, 2016 5:38 pm

    Yeah, I had my 5ps punched for width in the forefoot, didn’t think of that. Boot fitter did a good job and I put serious mileage on the boots before the forefoot rivets began to pop. Not an issue with the 6s.

  26. mitch March 29th, 2016 10:10 pm

    Has there ever been any issue with the metal bracket at back of the boot (the one that holds the boot to the posts of the dynafit binding) loosening or the slots wearing, making the boot rattle in the binding? Any place to get a new back of boot bracket?

  27. Lou Dawson 2 March 30th, 2016 6:58 am

    Mitch, YES, they are known to break off the boot as well as loosening. We have a lot of blog posts about it.


    The problem is less common now, due to most makers using stronger screws and better fitup of the fitting heel fitting. We would still like to see something clearly stronger.

  28. Rudi November 28th, 2017 7:58 am

    I completed the install of these pivots in my TLT-6Ps last night. It took about 30 minutes. The hardest part was removing the old bushings. I basically just stepped up in drill sizes slowly starting at 3/32″ I believe and used windex as a coolant which conveniently comes in a spray bottle and also cleans off your boots. After drilling out the center of the bushing I used side cutters to peel and pry off the yellow outside part of the bushing that retains the carbon cuff. Once this was completed I punched the husk of bushing back through boot. At this point the cuff will come off. The other part I found at least somewhat disconcerting was cutting off the plastic bushing molded into the scaffo. For this I used a utility knife to cut the bulk off then used just a utility blade and a file to remove the final bits of plastic and smooth the hole thing out so it is flush with the scaffo itself. After this you basically just pop the new bushings in and tighten it all down. I did not need to use a spanner or anything to hold the interior stainless hub as the knurl on it appeared to resist twisting sufficiently to torque the screw down. Id love if Mr. Bollinger would through out a torque spec for that bolt but otherwise I think snug and loctited is probably sufficient. Its all stainless though so to actually strip anything would probably be pretty hard. Im really happy with them as they are for sure friction free and there is zero play despite my carbon cuffs being pretty clearly ovalized before the install. The price appears steep but for 4 sets of 5 pieces of custom machined hardware at low volumes I doubt the man is getting rich off this stuff.

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