Dynafit Superlite 2 — Install That Badboy DIY

Post by WildSnow.com blogger | October 28, 2015      
Ready, set, slow down. Superlite 2 has no fore/aft adjustment for boot sole length so mounting is a challenge for the DIY.

Ready, set, slow down. Superlite 2 ski touring binding has no fore/aft adjustment for boot sole length so mounting is a challenge for the DIY.

Keepin’ it real here, no template or jig easily available so we whipped one up. Superlite 2 paper template available here. (NOTE: During template improvements it may not be available for download.)

Trick with the Dynafit Superlite 2 is it has NO forward/back adjustment at the heel for boot length. Mounting needs to be done with more care than is normal for most of us. Steps are similar to our other binding mount instructions. Get the toe unit installed first, with boot nicely aligned and the screws glued/torqued. In this case our La Sportiva Svelte planks were already drilled for Dynafit Radical, so the toe unit holes matched up perfectly. After cleaning up the hole “volcanoes” and old glue I installed the Superlite toes — after drawing a fore-aft center line on each ski. (Note: it’s common when mounting bindings using mechanical jig to do the heel unit first, then use it for reference while centering the boot. We do the opposite here because we need the toe installed to figure out where the heel unit is located.)

Superlite 2 toe matches up to Radical toe unit hole pattern, heel units do not.

Superlite 2 toe matches up to Radical toe unit hole pattern, heel units do not.

Superlite brake goes to a max of 80 mm so it won't work on these 96 mm waisted skis. I've devised a way to widen the brakes; we'll see if that gets done...

Superlite brake goes to a max of 80 mm so it won’t work on these 96 mm waisted skis. I’ve devised a way to widen the brakes; we’ll see if that gets done…

Binding toe installed, boot centered using the center-line I inked on the ski.

Binding toe installed, boot centered using the center-line I inked on the ski.

Template on ski, with hole positions matched up.

Template on ski, with hole positions matched up. It’s impossible to get this perfect, and the gap changes anyway when the ski flexes. In my opinion, so long as you’re within a millimeter you’re ok. I’m working on drawing thinner lines and taking my time, to help eliminate compound error.

Marking fore-aft position of heel unit screws, this is tricky.

Marking fore-aft position of heel unit screws, this is tricky. If you use the supplied white plastic gauge know that the specification is 5.5 mm for the gap, but the gauge compresses! Instead, using 3 moderately worn American nickels gives you a nice 5.5 mm gap and is much more solid while you’re making marks. Just be sure you squeeze the binding up tight against the nickel stack.

Using a nickel stack to set the gap during marking. Be sure everything is squeezed tightly together and the binding is set down solid and tight on the ski.

Using a nickel stack to set the gap during marking. Be sure everything is squeezed tightly together and the binding is set down solid and tight on the ski.

Position of paper is where your screw holes end up, so be careful. The template I made includes a line to reference the boot heel, but don't depend on it entirely.

Position of paper is where your screw holes end up, so be careful. The template I made includes a line to reference the boot heel, but don’t depend on it entirely.


Please Enjoy A Few Suggested WildSnow Posts


73 Responses to “Dynafit Superlite 2 — Install That Badboy DIY”

  1. Greg Louie October 28th, 2015 10:00 am

    Thanks for that, Lou – we were just wondering about a template for the new 4 hole heel yesterday!

  2. Lou Dawson 2 October 28th, 2015 10:04 am

    I’ve been fooling around with it for a couple of days, pretty difficult to get the heel gap perfect… but that’s true even with a mechanical jig. Let me know how it goes. I’d tend to drill only one pair of heel screws at a time, or perhaps even just one at a time. Lou

  3. Ted Eames October 28th, 2015 11:16 am

    too bad there is not a adaptor plate of sorts that would allow for some changes if boots get swapped out. I will be using a set of the red toes from last season in a TTS setup and was hoping that the heels could be on quiver killers so I can remove for tele days or swap back to tele. I guess with the TTS I will need a shim under the toe to compensate for the TTS ball of foot plate

  4. Lou Dawson 2 October 28th, 2015 11:25 am

    Hi Ted, you start adding stuff on and it defeats the purpose/weight. Lots of quite lightweight tech bindings out there with boot length adjustment. Only thing is the removable brake is probably quite nice… we shall see.

    For boots with significantly different length you could put two sets of holes in the ski, perhaps with inserts.


  5. Rick October 28th, 2015 11:59 am

    Any suggestions on a good adjustment plate for the Superlight binding? After giving back my F1 Evos I am moving in to the Backland Carbon. Boot sole goes from 314 to 308mm. I obviously can’t drill 6mm different holes. Bummer to use Superlights with adjustment plates but I have no other choice. I know Dynafit has a plate. Any others or preferences?

  6. Rick October 28th, 2015 12:01 pm

    …and if you use a plate on the heel should you also use one on the toe to keep heights even?

  7. Lou Dawson 2 October 28th, 2015 12:03 pm

    Depends on what ramp you really want… but… too much adjustment at the rear and the boot can be too far off the sweet spot… Lou

  8. ZB October 28th, 2015 1:06 pm

    Any tips for removing those “volcanoes” around the old holes? I’ve seen chisel, plane or rasp suggested. For holes not being re-used, fill before or after?

  9. CJ Congrove October 28th, 2015 1:11 pm

    Thanks for coming up with the paper jig. I ended up mounting the heel of mine using a Salomon Jig (combined with some careful measuring for sizing).

    It doesn’t exist yet, but I am told there will be plates for this binding made to use with the Jigarex universal mounting jig.

  10. Lou Dawson 2 October 28th, 2015 1:28 pm

    Hi ZB, funny you should ask, this morning I got tired of cleaning those volcanoes off after 40 years (grin). I made a “volcano removal tool” out of an old wood screw countersink. I guess it’s worth a blog post. OR, I’m pretty sure Slidewright or someone sells something to skive off those pesky things? Terry?

  11. Lou Dawson 2 October 28th, 2015 1:29 pm

    CJ, I’m sure they’ll make a Jigarex plate. Paper costs less (grin). Lou

  12. See October 28th, 2015 1:37 pm

    I’ve often thought fixing old holes so that new ones could be drilled wherever you want wouldn’t be too hard (actually I’ve done it, but didn’t use those skis enough for a good test). Obviously, I would not suggest any one try this if they didn’t know what they were doing. It would be a composite material repair job, not a simple fill and drill.

  13. Lou Dawson 2 October 28th, 2015 1:43 pm
  14. JCoates October 28th, 2015 2:11 pm

    Superlight 2’s on Vapor Sveltes…Wow, sweet set-up Lou!
    You don’t have to do a review on them, just posting some photos of you skiing on them and grinning ear-to-ear will be enough.

  15. Doug Hutchinson October 28th, 2015 2:45 pm

    @Ted Eames – you can do everything would want with inserts (Quiver Killers, Binding Freedom, etc.) without adding weight. All you need to do is swap out the tech heel with a tele heel riser and remove/add the mounts for the cable behind the toe.

    The shim you mention slots into the crampon slot of tech toes (and isn’t shown in Lou’s pics – it is optional on this bindings?) without toes. You only need this shim if you want to ski fixed heel with bellowed boots.

  16. Dave G October 28th, 2015 4:32 pm

    I always add steel wool to epoxy when filling holes (think rebar in concrete ). Seems to make very strong and durable fill.

  17. Charlie Hagedorn October 28th, 2015 6:17 pm

    To remove ‘volcanoes’, I just plane with a razor-blade ’till they’re flush.

  18. See October 28th, 2015 6:27 pm

    Thanks for the link, Lou. This blog is an encyclopedia. I’m partial to this stuff and the syringe technique: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/404-high-density-filler/

  19. Wookie October 29th, 2015 2:47 am

    I was looking at the Superlight 2.0s in the shop the other day – and it finally dawned on me why they changed the design from the old superlight….(The old superlight is lighter – using only three screws and no brake option)
    The four screws at the back are WAAAY easier to mount up than the old three screw pattern – even for shops with Jigs and all that.

    But – since a lot of shops are selling superlight 1.0s for a STEAL at the moment – and the are lighter – I’ll probably scoop a few up.

    Can his blogness give a tip about how to twist the heelpiece out of the way of the screw-holes in order to mount the old superlights. I always manage somehow – but its not pretty. I figure there has got to be a better way.

  20. Doug Hutchinson October 29th, 2015 8:48 am

    Anyone that wants a race-weight and adjustable BSL binder should check out the Kreuzspitze SCTT with the heel adjustment plate: http://skimo.co/kreuzspitze-adjustment-plates Adding the plate changes the delta from -0.5mm to +5mm which will basically feel like no delta from someone coming from +14mm Radicals. For reference, the delta on the first gen Superlites is +2.5mm. More plates: http://skimo.co/kreuzspitze-adjustment-plates

    I think if you want brakes and adjustable DIN – go with the Superlite. If you want adjustable BSL and flat on ski mode – go with the Kreuzspitze. A little birdie told me the DIN on the Kreuzspitze is ~8.5.

  21. Doug Hutchinson October 29th, 2015 8:51 am

    While the peanut gallery is making requests for future need-to-know posts from his Blogness, how about one about the changes to this year’s TLT6? Seeing the green one in this post reminded me there is still a lot confusion about what was changed (besides the colors) on the current 6s. Slightly wider last, or the widest part was moved fore and aft, or? Thanks Lou.

  22. Lou Dawson 2 October 29th, 2015 9:04 am

    Doug, I’m having too much fun with my welder.

    The two huge differences with TLT6 P for 2015-16, the brown/orange model, is the Pebax lower shell instead of Grilamid, and the super nice quick release power strap. I dislike Pebax and wish it would go away, Grilamid is such a joy to punch and makes a very light and rigid boot with what I feel is a slightly more damp feel than Pebax. Shut my mouth, Pebax has indeed been used for some of the best ski touring boots ever made, for example in Dynafit’s case the Green Machine. Nonetheless, we love Grilamid, so there…

    As for width, I’ll have to measure it to talk about it (Cam told me to think that way). If it’s wider it’s only a small bit.


  23. TimZ October 29th, 2015 9:09 am

    Be careful using the jigarex to mount non adjustable bindings. I’ve given up on using it for anything other than radical and plate bindings. Race bindings/non adjustable bindings are just too picky

  24. Nick October 29th, 2015 11:49 am


    Regarding Superlite 1.0 (and forgive me if this is obvious), theres is an OEM included grey spacer that slides into a small gap on both outer sides of the pins once the binding is rotated slightly. You’ll see this gap open even if you don’t have the spacer. You could probably DIY one or holler at Salewa NA. I saved mine and just went through this a couple nights ago removing 1.0’s from V6 to go on BD CC. The spacers are key, IMO. Maybe someone else can chime in on a (probably obvious) non-OEM solution…

  25. Wookie October 29th, 2015 1:08 pm

    Thanks Nick! Yeah, I have those, but even when I jam them in, the binding doesn’t twist free far enough to get a torx key onto a bolt from directly above.

    Has this been the case with you? I’ve got several pair, and they all behave the same.

  26. Wayne October 29th, 2015 2:31 pm

    Have you guys addressed the cuff slop from Dynafit TLT/PDG boots that occurs NOT from the cuff rivet, but from the window cutout on the cuff for the Ultra Lock getting too big? Same for the spoiler. I wonder if there is a fix for this?

  27. swissiphic October 29th, 2015 3:00 pm

    I have some high mileage dynafit mercury boots and noticed this slop at end of last season. I didn’t forensically investigate exactly which components wore and how much…but…I did eradicate the play by filing/scuffing the top of the alu ‘knob’ and adding some j.b. weld and then carefully filing down the material until the knob fit into the hole with ever so slight friction…thereby producing an almost better than factory fresh lock for ski mode. To be honest, I don’t know if this is a durable solution but have noticed no wear after about a dozen days of skiing since I performed the operation. Time will tell.

  28. Nick October 29th, 2015 6:08 pm

    No problems getting a torx bit straight down with my only pair of Superlites, Wookie.

    I have to partially turn the upper in order to adequately open those slots to *fully* insert the spacer. Once spacer is placed, smooth sailing. Maybe obvious, maybe not…hope it helps all the same!

  29. Ty Falk October 30th, 2015 7:27 am

    Any opinions out there on the new super lights? I had a pair a few years ago that had the pins in the heel that were not in the shape of a “U” bar and broke them fairly easily. One of the pins shot out to the side. The toe to me also felt less burly than my low Tec races. It dossent look like the toe has changed but heel has with a race style U bar…I am going to be using these with the dps wailer 112 and need something fairly burley with heel risers (so the expeditions and low Tec races are out) but don’t want the extra weight of the speed radicals… Any opinions…

  30. Greg Louie October 30th, 2015 8:59 am

    @Doug: The fit of the 2015-16 TLT6P CL is dramatically different than last year’s model. It feels much roomier over the instep and around the midfoot, and would allow me to drop down a shell size from the older version. It’s not clear if the roomier fit is due solely to the thinner CL liner (hard to believe, as I use the TLT5P liner in my older 6’s already and the CL liner is very similar). As far as the switch from Grilamid, I was told (by Giordano Vechiet, their boot product manager) that they preferred the reactive qualities of Pebax but didn’t say anything about punchability. He also didn’t mention cost (Pebax is cheaper).

  31. Mark W October 31st, 2015 7:49 am

    Dare I say Grilamid is more durable than Pebax? I think my older Pebax boots got more chewed up than my Grilamid TLT 6 boots. Anyway, more thread drift… Looks like the new TLT 6 comes with one tongue (stiff black), not two as before. New power strap is genius.

  32. Mark W October 31st, 2015 7:58 am

    ZB, I second the countersink tool for volcano removal. Surform sometimes works also.

  33. See November 1st, 2015 9:55 am

    Getting pretty deep in the weeds here, but I’m not sure countersink is really optimal because it could remove some of the deck along with the volcano. As core materials get lighter, I think the deck plays a greater role in screw retention.

  34. Ty Falk November 1st, 2015 11:53 am

    Any thoughts on my original post…

  35. Lou Dawson 2 November 1st, 2015 1:01 pm

    See, I made a modified countersink that just trims flat not a cone, works pretty good though if you put some weight on it it’ll still eat into the ski. I’ll post. Lou

  36. Lou Dawson 2 November 1st, 2015 1:04 pm

    Hi Ty, thanks for reminding. No reason the U shaped spring should be any weaker than the modern style pair of pins, which have broken as well… I’d be more concerned about not being able to set release values where you want them. Seriously, for a ski like that save weight with your boots and use a binding that’s fully release adjustable and perhaps has brakes. My opinion anyhow. Lou

  37. ZB November 1st, 2015 2:17 pm

    Yeah, I was a bit worried about removing too much material with a normal “steep” countersink. Look forward to the post, Lou – sorry about the comments derail.

  38. See November 1st, 2015 6:34 pm

    Come to think of it, a discussion of tools seems relevant to a thread with “DIY” in the title, so I apologize for the “in the weeds” comment. Also, if those ski’s use what I think they use for a core, overdoing it with a conical countersink would not be good.

  39. DRB November 11th, 2015 11:13 pm


    Do you know what type and size insert screws should be used for these new bindings? Looking at getting some Quiver Killer or Binding Freedom inserts and nobody has the screw sizes for these new bindings. It appears both the heel and toe have the same length stock screw. Just not sure the size screw I should get for the inserts. Nobody from either company seems to know either as they don’t have these bindings in stock yet. Thanks!

  40. DRB November 11th, 2015 11:15 pm

    Also, do you think a 135-110-120 ski (183cm) would be too much for this binding?

  41. Lou Dawson 2 November 12th, 2015 6:17 am

    Dynafit Superlite 2, stock screw protrusion is 8.5 mm, stock screw total length is 12.8 mm.

    If I’m not mistaken the Quiver Killer inserts allow about 5 mm of screw protrusion/ insertion length. I have some 10mm long Quiver Killer screws here and when I dry fit to the Dynafit Superlite 2, with an insert screwed on, they seem to be what you’d want.

    Ultimately, however, the guys at Quiver or Freedom spec this out pretty carefully as the inserts don’t give you a lot of threads to work with. So rather than guesswork you’ll probably need to wait till they have the spec. Dynafit NA has been shipping all this winter’s retail bindings, so the spec shouldn’t be long in coming.

    That sounds like a pretty big ski… would depend on your style.

    You know, pairing bindings and skis has a lot more to do with what the rig is being used for than it does with width and length of the ski. Remember that most tech bindings, especially those built on the original design, can have problems with the toe wings opening if you apply too much force, usually from a combo of fast skiing, hard snow, big boots, and yes, bigger skis. Beefier bindings remedy this in various ways, Dynafit Radical has power towers, ION has tuned geometry and very strong toe springs, Vipec is a total departure, and so on…

    Of course, if you choose to ski with toes locked and release settings maxed, then the weak link is probably your tibia or ACL.


  42. DRB November 12th, 2015 8:02 am

    Thanks Lou! Appreciate the information. My only concern with the inserts is making sure I get an accurate mount since there’s no adjustment for length on the heel. As for the ski size, I may just end up mounting the super lite on my 92mm and 100mm waisted shorter skis. My thoughts with the 110mm waist ski mount was I could use them for a powder touring setup and then swap them out with my light 92mm setup for spring/longer tours.

  43. Lou Dawson 2 November 12th, 2015 9:07 am

    Key is do a mount without the inserts and get it close to perfect, then drill out for the inserts. The fore-aft position of the heel unit has, in my opinion, at least a millimeter of tolerance. You just want to get it as close to perfect as possible so it stays within tolerances. Lou

  44. Bryan Nestor November 22nd, 2015 12:33 pm

    Using a caliper, it looks like the distance between the front and rear heel piece holes is 27 mm rather than 28. The toe piece lines up perfectly with the printed template. The heel piece is just a little off…not much 1 mm, but looks like the rear holes on the heel piece allow for perfect placement for the boot, so rear holes should be tighted first, tolerance for the front holes will be ok but if tightened first would add an extra 1mm to an otherwise perfect boot / heel piece gap. Your thoughts? I’ll likely use your templates and modify accordingly, but let me know if you agree and plan on modifying an otherwise almost perfect template. Would love to send along photos if you have an email address I can send them too. PS Wonderful blog! Have been a quiet follower for past 2-3 years.
    warm regards,

  45. Lou Dawson 2 November 22nd, 2015 2:09 pm

    Hello Bryan, thanks much, I’ll correct the template if necessary, pretty easy. But I’m wondering if there are some manufacturing variations in the binding.

    Thanks for visiting!

  46. Lou Dawson 2 November 22nd, 2015 3:39 pm

    Bryan, I keep getting 28 mm using digital calipers, zeroed. I’ll do some more checking. I got some early bindings, perhaps the manufacturing changed a tiny bit… happens. Lou

  47. Christian November 24th, 2015 1:44 pm

    I recently bought the binding and I’m getting a distance of 28 mm as well.

  48. Christian November 24th, 2015 1:47 pm

    Another question: For a classical dynafit binding, you advise to first drill only the front hole of the toe piece and then to adjust the center of the boot heel to the center line on the ski. How do you do this for the superlite. Just drill one of the toe piece holes? does it matter which one?

  49. John Baldwin November 26th, 2015 10:21 am

    Any idea on the tolerance for gap width?

    For example I have Dynafit TLT6 boots but I noticed that the sole length of the Atomic Backland is 1mm shorter in the same size. Switching boots would increase the gap to 6.5mm. Is this going to cause any problems?

    A narrower gap might allow the boot to rub on the binding when releasing and a wider gap might allow pre release. But it seems there is a few mm of leeway, especially with stiffer skis?

  50. Greg Louie November 26th, 2015 10:42 am

    More troublesome is the fact that the more relaxed fit of the Backland Carbon (compared to the green TLT6) allows many people (I’m one) to drop down a size, meaning a 9mm shorter BSL and very possibly some remounts.

  51. Greg Louie November 26th, 2015 10:44 am

    PS The Backland BSL’s are 1mm longer than the TLT6 BSL’s in the same shell size.

  52. Lou Dawson 2 November 26th, 2015 10:46 am

    Hi John, there is certainly about a mm of tolerance. Which way depends on ski style. I’d say a bit too large a gap is worse than too small, since you can indeed end up with the boot catching on the binding while touring in heel-flat mode, and while skiing the boot heel will bang into the binding when heavily flexing the ski. All too large a gap will do is 1.) reduce actual release settings, 2.) increase the possibility of boot pulling out vertically when decambering the ski (reverse flexing).

    I routinely ski with gap plus or minus a millimeter, while swapping between boots. But I’m pretty careful about my expectations and style of skiing.

    If your binding has that “bump” under the heel pins, it’s worth grinding that off if you routinely use boots that are a hair long. Also, be sure to release check boots, if they’re long for the binding settings the torsional (side) release can bind.


  53. Mike April 16th, 2016 12:12 pm

    Hey Lou, thanks for the write-up. I’m about to mount up some TLT Speed Radical bindings to a pair of Vapor Svelte skis and noticed that La Sportiva specifies a 3.5 x 7.5 mm drill, which obviously doesn’t quite work with Dynafit’s stock 8.5 mm screw protrusion. Did you go ahead and use the 8.5 mm protrusion screws anyway? If not, did you grind down your screws or were you able to buy shorter ones somewhere? If the latter, where from?

    FYI, I would have gone with the Superlites as well (which I already have and like so far on another pair of skis) but I have two pairs of boots that I’d like to use with the Vapors, and I like the risers on the Radicals more.


  54. Lou Dawson 2 April 16th, 2016 12:21 pm

    Hey Mike, screw length vs drill length is not a big deal in soft core skis, in fact having the screw penetrate a bit into undrilled core is desirable. If your screw is much longer than depth of hole, feel in the hole with a small drill bit and make sure the core material feels fairly soft.

    That said, you have to be super careful of using screws that are too long on these lighter weight skis. Measure thickness of ski and compare to screw protrusion, using a caliper. There is no real standard for how deep you want the screw to be in the ski, but it needs to be as deep as possible without compromising the base structure.

    Shorting screws is easy. Just grind the tip off then sharpen a bit by rotating tip against the grinder. Be careful when inserting shortened screws that they don’t strip, a bit more pressure than normal till it feels “started.” And/or, run a tap into the screw holes a couple of turns each.

  55. Mike April 18th, 2016 10:24 am

    Lou, thanks for the input! The ski is thick enough to fit the stock screws, but just barely and I suspect they’d kiss or slightly penetrate the base structure so I’ll do some grinding on them for peace of mind.

  56. Lou Dawson 2 April 18th, 2016 1:27 pm

    Sounds bueno, let us know how it goes. Lou

  57. Andres Torres January 5th, 2017 1:53 pm

    I just mounted a pair…all is aligned…with a hair less than a 3 nickel gap and heel won’t engage the pins unless they are inserted first then toe is locked down…any ideas why?

  58. Andres Torres January 5th, 2017 2:21 pm

    Tried the above with both yellow Spitfire and TLT5

  59. See January 5th, 2017 7:05 pm

    I have never seen these bindings. Wild guess: the U spring is way stiff. https://www.wildsnow.com/19750/modify-mount-dynafit-superlite-2/

  60. See January 5th, 2017 7:19 pm

    And, if that’s the case, then release value is also high. If people are using this binding without having a sense of the rv, well, that would seem like a potential problem.

  61. Andres Torres January 5th, 2017 10:46 pm

    Thanks…I did some poking around and came up with the same answer…the spring is set at 8 or 9 and that makes entry and exit tougher.

  62. See January 5th, 2017 10:46 pm

    I just checked out a couple descriptions/specs for this binding from the most obvious online resources. In my opinion, they are incomplete to the point of being deceptive. It reminds me of the time a shop recommended Expeditions to me without mentioning that they lacked lateral release. Sorry, but this sort of marketing bs really bugs me. But, as I said, I have no first hand experience with this product. If I’m mistaken, please correct me.

  63. Lou2 January 6th, 2017 7:41 am

    Indeed, the whole idea of my publishing about the U-spring mod was to communicate that unless you’re in a country where you can get the less stiff U-spring you may end up with a binding that has too much vertical release tension-resistance. My guess is that the U-spring this binding is supplied with in North America gives vertical release tension to the equivalent of at LEAST DIN 9, possibly 10 or even more.

    I’d agree that unless advertising etc. can communicate properly about this, it could be construed as being deceptive. On the other hand, buyer beware, and WildSnow.com is here to help.


  64. See January 6th, 2017 9:23 am

    Sorry to hijack your question, Andres. A little background to the above rant, or How I Discovered Wildsnow: my base layers have been in a bunch about this since I started using tech bindings and discovered that locking the toes was standard procedure for some users, but was rarely mentioned by the shops or in the marketing material. At first, I assumed tech bindings were “safety bindings” comparable to alpine bindings. I soon discovered that some people disable safety release to prevent pre-release and adopt a “just don’t fall” approach, at least in certain situations. I still think that the different use scenarios for various types of bindings are not adequately explained by manufacturers and vendors. Race bindings, Radical 2’s, Ions, Vipecs, Kingpins, frames, wtr’s… they’re all very different beasts. But this site is still the best source for information of this sort.

  65. Andres Torres January 8th, 2017 2:08 pm

    Just wanna say thanks for being such a stellar resource for us all…after all just tools for us to choose how to use to chase our metaphorical windmills…last question…would love a heel riser to add on for the steep hills…Any chance you know where I can get my hands on one or two before February.

  66. Flo February 8th, 2017 6:56 pm

    First of all, thank you, Lou, for such a great website full of useful information! And the template is very much appreciated as well.

    I recently got the Superlite 2.0 bindings and will be mounting them on a pair of Dhaulagiris, and was wondering about the little plastic shims (about 12x10x0.5mm) provided within the screw bag. The only place I found them to fit was under the very front of the toe piece, right under the lock lever. So how is this going to be installed correctly? Schould it be glued to the Ski surface?
    Or are they installed optionally after mounting the binding in case there is space (as the aluminium bottom of the toe piece seems to be even)? Any ideas?

  67. Flo February 22nd, 2017 6:14 am

    Me again, in case, anyone is interested in the purpose of these little plastic shims. Found an installation instruction from dynafit, that tells that the shims should be installed (afterwards), if the lock lever is on the “last” locking position or doesn’t lock at all. A bit depending on the ski surface around the binding. In that case, they can be pushed between ski surface and top toe part with a flat screwdriver.
    Didn’t need mine in my mount though.
    Happy skiing!

  68. Lou Dawson 2 February 22nd, 2017 7:50 am

    Nice info Flo, thanks for helping out! Lou

  69. Jim Milstein October 8th, 2018 7:49 pm

    Not sure where to post my Sportiva Vapor Svelte question, but chose here ’cause pix of the Svelte adorn the article.

    Just got a pair of new 168cm Sveltes, and they are pleasingly light. My concern is that their individual weights differ by 60g. One weighs 1125g and the other 1065g. The average is 1095g, close to spec weight of 1080g. Otherwise they look good but could use a mild base grinding to make them perfectly flat.

    Is the weight difference something I should obsess over or cheerfully ignore?

    If ignore, I will mount ATK Trofeos on them paying close attention to this article since they have no heel adjustment plate.

    I hope to report on the results of this combo after some experience on snow, which is now present on the local peaks. We pray the snow is not merely a cruel tease to be followed by nothing, like last year.

  70. Lou Dawson 2 October 8th, 2018 10:31 pm

    Hi Jim, most skis do vary a bit in weight, 60 g, 2 ounces, is at the upper end of the difference scale in my opinion and based on memory of past evaluations, but so long as the skis appear to be a match in both look and flex, I don’t think it would be a problem. Skis vary in weight because much of the building process is often hand work, to the extent of pouring resin in a mold then trowling it around. The other thing to pay attention to is when you’re drilling and tapping the skis for bindings, be sure both skis have similar resistance to the drill bit, I’ve seen skis that were missing the extra reinforcement for the binding screws. Lou

  71. Lee November 28th, 2018 8:30 am

    Back to a more basic question regarding mounting this binder . . . in past paper jigs I’ve used from WS there has been a pin line to help line up the toe piece part of the jig with where the toe inserts land on the ski. But the jig for this binding doesn’t have a pine line?

    Sounds like could use and an old Radical paper jig for the toe, but are the pins in the same relative position on the 2.0 toe piece as on the Radical toe piece . . . or am I missing something?

  72. Lou Dawson 2 November 28th, 2018 10:00 am

    Lee, put the binding toe on the boot, set boot on ski where you want it, mark a few screw holes, match template to the screw holes for your fore/aft position. Pin line is redundant and confusing.

    Use a tape measure to match your location to the other ski.


  73. Lee November 28th, 2018 1:18 pm

    Got it Lou – thanks for the quick reply and for all the great binding beta found on this site.

    Btw: when my new 2.0’s showed up one of the pins fell right out of the binding wing on the toe piece. Dynafit has been superquick in response and is making it right ASAP – but just a heads up.

    It looked like the outside edge of the pin was never pressed/stamped/etc to make it bigger than the hole in the wing. Upon handling the toe piece to starting sussing out my mount it just fell onto the workbench . . .

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