Scarpa Techno X Climbing Shoe – Review


Post by WildSnow.com blogger | July 14, 2016      

We don’t do much “summer” content here since it’s always winter and people are always ski touring, somewhere. But it is indeed rock climbing season in the northern hemisphere. So here goes.

Being a moderate climber at best, I’m always on the lookout for new gear that’ll give me an edge. Specifically, I find that high-quality shoes can really up your game. I’ve gone through numerous shoes over the years and come to appreciate stiff, flat shoes, especially for crack climbing. Scarpas fit me well and provide such.

I’ve been using Scarpa Techno X for about a year. They have been my go-to shoe on hard (for me) trad routes. One of the first climbing trips for my Techno X was in the Wind Rivers, Wyoming. After that, the shoes accompanied me to Squamish, alpine climbing on Washington Pass, and lots of cragging. Most recently, I brought them up to the Gunsight Range in the North Cascades.

Cruising up the classic "
Classic Crack" in Leavenworth with the Technos

Cruising up the classic “Classic Crack” in Leavenworth with the Technos.

Sizing climbing shoes is always tricky, especially when buying them online. It’s definitely recommended to purchase shoes, ski boots and other footwear in a local shop. However, I couldn’t find any shops in the Seattle area that sold the Technos. From reading online, I found that they run fairly small. Accordingly, when I first got the shoes, I chose a size 42. It was quickly apparent that those were going to be too small, so I went up a half size, and settled on a size 42.5. (For reference, I have a size 9-9.5 foot, in ski boots I use a 27.5.) I’ve been using the 42.5s since.

After a few months of use, I’m fairly sure they have stretched out as much as they will. They are still slightly on the small side. On anything up to a few pitches, they are fine, but on longer climbs they begin to feel uncomfortable. Usually after 4 pitches of climbing I take them off for a few minutes at the belay if I’m in a good spot. But on anything shorter, they feel perfect.

As far as stretching, they enlarged a bit, but not very much, perhaps a half size, maybe less. Interestingly, the area where they are the most uncomfortable for me is above the ball of the heel. Scarpa climbing shoes tend to have a large heel pocket, one reason they fit my foot, yet it seems the deep pocket makes the top edge of the shoe dig into the back of my foot.

Scarpa Techno X climbing shoes

Scarpa Techno X climbing shoes.

The shoes work well when being smashed into cracks of all sizes. They have sticky rubber on the top of the toe, as well as a sizable rand. In the majority of cracks (excluding off-widths) the only parts of the shoe touching the rock tend to be those with rubber. Being stiff, the shoes also excel at edging. Several times I’ve desperately put my foot on a tiny edge, and have been surprised at how well it held.

The major area the shoes don’t excel in are slabs, mostly owing to the stiffness of the shoes (but the tight fit I have might not be right).

Since I’ve used the Techno X for a while I’ve gotten a good feel for their durability. I have to confess, I’ve never been able to tell a major difference in the grip of rubber types between shoe manufacturers, although I have noticed differences in wear. The shoes still have quite a bit of rubber left on the sole. I do feel they have lasted a bit longer than comparable shoes I’ve had in the past.

On a very hot day some of the sole rubber delaminated a few millimeters on the side of the shoe. I was worried at first, but in the months since it hasn’t gotten any worse, and because it is on the outside of the shoe it hasn’t affected the climbing abilities of the shoe.

My only other gripe is the blue and orange leather dye. Even after a ton of use, they still make my feet blue and orange after wearing them. In my opinion, all leather on climbing shoes should be dyed in skin-like tones (yellow, tan, grey, etc), or not dyed at all since one does have to wonder what’s in the dye and subsequently impregnated into your epidermis.

Overall, I’ve been very satisfied with the Tchno X. I also have a pair of Scarpa Boostics that I use for sport climbing, but for trad climbing I have been exclusively using the Techno’s. When I’m scrabbling and panicking up on a crack that’s above my pay grade, it’s nice to have a bit of a confidence boost from high-end shoes like the Scarpas.

You can get yourself a pair here, or if you’re a lady, you can get the same shoe with a women’s fit and snazzy colors here.


Comments

4 Responses to “Scarpa Techno X Climbing Shoe – Review”

  1. Gregory Foster July 14th, 2016 7:58 pm

    That’s a heck of a rack for hmmm … 15+ feet of 5.7

  2. Louie III July 14th, 2016 8:42 pm

    Haha, I knew someone would comment about that. Weight training for the alpine? 😉

  3. Michael July 15th, 2016 8:49 am

    Cool to see climbing content on here.

    Techno X is a great shoe for all things trad climbing. Edges & jams well, durable, pretty comfortable depending on how you size them without losing too much performance. They climb slabs decently well when broken in. I prefer 5.10 rubber myself for pure slab climbing but the Vibram XS Edge edges well (as its name would indicate) and is durable.

    It’s very comparable to the La Sportiva TC Pro. Main difference is the lack of ankle coverage on the Scarpa (I’ve come to be a big fan of the ankle coverage on the TC Pro). Both are excellent shoes for trad climbing. Both edge & jam well. TC Pro gets the nod for wide cracks with the ankle coverage and it seems a bit stiffer too for heel/toe jams. Both are great options depending on what fits you.

  4. Wookie July 19th, 2016 4:00 am

    does anybody make climbing shoes that cover the ankle anymore? They used to be all over the place – but I havn’t seen any that aren’t in day-glo colors and ancient in years.

    I climb – but I suck. I skin up my ankles regularly despite long pants and long for a pair of possibly less-than-modern boots to cover them up.

Got something to say? Please do so.





Anti-Spam Quiz:

You can subscribe to comment notification by checking the box to left, but you must leave a brief comment to do so, which records your email and requires you to use our anti-spam challange. If you don't like leaving substantive comments that's fine, just leave a simple comment that says something like "thanks, subscribed" with a made-up name. Check the comment subscription checkbox BEFORE you submit.
If you need an emoticon for a comment just copy/paste off the following list, or use text code you might be familiar with.

:D    :-)    :(    :lol:    :x    :P    :oops:    :cry:    :evil:    :twisted:    :roll:    :wink:    :!:    :?:    :idea:    :arrow:   
  
Due to comment spam we moderate most comments. Please do not submit your comment twice -- it will appear shortly after approval. Comments with one or more links in the text may be held in moderation, for spam prevention. If you'd like to publish a photo in a comment, contact us. Guidelines: Be civil, no personal attacks, avoid vulgarity and profanity.

  Your Comments

  • Matus: @swissiphic - My words. But this is probably the result of the hunt for ISO...
  • Lou2: The Look is just a rebadge. Started a while ago. We covered in at least one...
  • VT skier: Anyone have a problem with the Anti Friction Device , mounted on the ski br...
  • See: I agree— no disclaimer needed (especially after all this discussion). Sorry...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Bruno, thanks. I'm glad you've got a sense of the mission here, nearly 4,00...
  • Equilibrium: Brent, Do you still have the carbon cylinder. I am in the USA and would l...
  • Justin: I mentioned the Look bindings in an unrelated post, but this is much more r...
  • Bruno Schull: Hi Lou--I don't really think the disclaimer is necessary. Anybody who has ...
  • swissiphic: I don't know...with all this incremental weight creep and complexity increa...
  • Lou Dawson 2: See, yeah, wasn't so much making excuses as I was simply setting everyone ...
  • Aaron Mattix: I'm stoked on this simply for the fact that it sheds light on the under-rep...
  • See: Point taken, Lou— the Lance analogy was not fair, but that’s what the “they...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Fox, the book's destinations by intent are not all that exciting, they're m...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Guys, while I've been blessed to acheive my life dream of making a living a...
  • See: Except he didn’t admit it until everyone already knew....
  • See: I gotta say, Lou, that your “they all do it” response to Howard’s point reg...
  • Fox: HI - excited to have another adventure reference. Can you discuss locati...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Thanks Torquil. Lou...
  • Torquil: I see they didn't bother changing the brake plate so its easier to get to t...
  • Lou Dawson 2: test...
  • Kevin Woolley: I'm not a blogger or a professional guidebook writer, but I enjoy high qual...
  • Lou Dawson 2: TMS, RV 10 at your size sounds about right? Good to hear it's working. Help...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Fair enough. Happy to get your opinion. As for writing PR, in the third...
  • Howard: Lou, you will justify in your mind the reasons that guidebooks and blogging...
  • TMS HAWAII: I'm 6'2" and 220 lbs, I use the Radical FT and run the tension @ 10. I feel...
  • Henrik: Thanks for writing endless awesome advice to all us novices! I'm extreme...
  • David: Waiting for your 2017 take on the Superlite 2.0!...
  • Mitch R.: Thank you! This is dream come true for this moderate backcountry skier! W...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Todd, yeah, T20 adjustment is new. Good to hear you're able to run RV 8,...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Can't believe I messed that up, space case! Fixed now. Thanks for the help....

  Recent Posts


Welcome to Louis (Lou) Dawson's backcountry skiing information & opinion website. Lou's passion for the past 50 years has been alpinism, climbing, mountaineering and skiing -- along with all manner of outdoor recreation. He has authored numerous books and articles about ski touring and is well known as the first person to ski down all 54 of Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks, otherwise known as the Fourteeners! Books and free ski touring news and information here.

All material on this website is copyrighted, the name WildSnow is trademarked, permission required for reproduction (electronic or otherwise) and display on other websites. PLEASE SEE OUR COPYRIGHT and TRADEMARK INFORMATION.

Backcountry skiing is dangerous. You may be killed or severely injured if you do any form of ski mountaineering, skimo randonnee and randonnée skiing. The information and news on this website is intended only as general information. While the authors and editors of the information on this website make every effort to present useful information about ski mountaineering, due to human error and passing time, the information, text and images contained within this website may be inaccurate, false, or out-of-date. By using, reading or viewing the information provided on this website, you agree to absolve the owners of Wild Snow as well as content contributors of any liability for injuries or losses incurred while using such information. Furthermore, you agree to use any of this website's information, maps, photos, or binding mounting instructions templates at your own risk, and waive Wild Snow owners and contributors of liability for use of said items for ski touring or any other use.

Switch To Mobile Version