Is slogging up a ski area for five hours the way to start a classic backcountry skiing tour in the Alps? No. So day one or our Silvretta adventure involved a few ski lifts out of resort town Ischgl, which then morphed to an easy short tour leading to the Heidelberger Hutte. Resorts get big over here, kind of like Vail, so finding your way to an exact location may require more navigational savvy than GPSing your way over a glacier. A bit of trail map study did the trick, though I’ll admit to taking notes like ‘first take lift B3, then go to B2, then up C1.” The groomer ice wasn’t on the trail map, but was interesting nonetheless. Good we had tuned skis.