Do it Yourself: Mount your Dynafit TLT, Comfort, Vertical, Radical ST FT & Radical 2.0, Speed Bindings

Post by blogger | September 3, 2014      

Homebrew backcountry skiing binding install tricks and tips, mount them yourself!

Disclaimer: By using these mounting instructions and templates, you agree to not hold, its owners or associates liable for anything. We provide no support or help with using these instructions — you are on your own. If you have questions, please bring them up as a blog comment on our homepage.

Dynafit Speed Radical backcountry skiing binding, 2012/13 model.

Dynafit Speed Radical backcountry skiing binding, 2012/13 model.

Instructions below picture an early Dynafit binding model, but work for most other models (check hole patterns by setting binding on paper template, some early bindings have heel unit hole patterns that may be slightly different.)

Be aware that in the case of RADICAL FT 12 the distance between toe and heel has to be perfectly set for the binding’s “stiffening plate” to function to any extent. We’ve tested and skied this binding and felt no difference with the stiffening switched on or off. For ease of mounting the Radical FT, we’d recommend not worrying about the Radical FT 12 stiffening plate, simply leave it off, and chuck it in the trash or use as a mirror medallion in your Sprinter van.

Note that some Dynafit models with brakes such as Vertical/ST/FT and Radical may require removal of brakes to facilitate mounting. Instructions for brake removal are here. That said, starting in late 2012 the Dynafit Radical FT and ST models have brakes that are NOT user removable. You can still remove the heel housing off the heel plate with those bindings, though doing so is not necessary if you have the right tooling (torx 2.0 driver, with skinny section about 3 inches long to fit between brake and heel housing.)

Warning: These instructions are based on using a paper template you will download and print, please verify scale of printing by comparing template to actual physical binding — before drilling holes in ski.

The keys to success in home mounting bindings are careful measurement, moving slow, and using the paper template and your boots as a substitute for the mechanical jig used by ski shops. Also, IMPORTANT: if you’re new to ski work slow down and do a practice mount on a pair of dumpster skis or a 2×4.

What I’m presenting here is one of many ways a craftsman could achieve a good backcountry ski touring binding mount. If you’re comfortable with tools and measurements, you’ll probably figure out a few variations along the way. For example, after you’ve done a few mounts it speeds things up if you do the heel unit first, but for novices we recommend starting with the toe unit as doing so will force you to be super careful with locating the boot on the ski and centering the binding. Whatever you do, just remember the theme here is to center the bindings left/right on the ski, and locate the boot so it matches the boot location mark on the ski.

How To Do The Deed

For mounting Dynafit bindings you need a good workbench or kitchen counter. Cover your counters with something liked taped butcher paper, but leave the outside edge exposed in case you need it for reference. Tools and materials needed:

– Handheld screwdriver with pozi-drive bit to fit screws that come with the binding (with care you can use a jumbo philips bit, but pozi is much better. See notes at bottom of this article.)

– Electric drill with sharp 5/32 inch bit or special ski bit (see notes below)

– Electrical tape, clear office tape, masking tape, and of course some duct tape

– Sharp center-punch, with associated hammer

– Straight steel or plastic “yardstick” type ruler

– Tape measure

– Fine point Sharpie type marker

– Epoxy, one-hour type prefered

Wildsnow paper template for most Dynafit bindings (jig)

Wildsnow Radical 2.0 template (jig)

– Scissors, blank paper and paper punch

Step 1 Make sure you know where the mounting mark (aka “sole midpoint”) is on your backcountry skiing boots. It’s usually a small vertical line, arrow, or triangle molded into the side of the sole about midway between heel and toe. If your boot doesn’t have it, simply make a mark half the distance between toe and heel. Enhance the mark with your Sharpie so you can’t miss it (bring the mark over to the edge of the sole so you can see it from the side).

Step 2 Find the boot mounting mark on the skis; usually a small triangle or line that’s at the approximate midpoint of where you would imagine a boot sitting on the ski. Be sure you get the correct mark — if in doubt ask a shop rat, or call the ski seller.

Step 3 Using a marker pen (Sharpie) extend the boot mark across the top surface of the ski, left to right. Eyeball this using a straightedge. If you feel challenged, you can align the skis with the edge of your work surface and use a large framing square to make the marks square to the skis. The idea here is to make an easily visible mark on top of the skis, for referencing the boot and paper template positions.

Step 4 Install a binding toe unit on a boot and place boot on ski. Align boot center mark with ski mark. Carefully press the binding toe down on the ski and mark the center of the front pair of screw holes (you are using the binding as a template). Remove boot and binding from ski, make a couple of left-right marks across the ski showing the positions of the screw holes. Align your paper template with these marks. (THIS METHOD ELIMINATES THE NEED TO FOOL AROUND WITH MARKING THE “PIN” PIVOT POSITION, an ancient holdover from mounting nordic bindings.)

Step 5 Remove the boot from your ski. Using straightedge, draw left/right lines across skis matching the binding screw positions. Again, the idea is to give yourself easily visible marks on your skis so you can reference the paper template. While marking, use your tape measure and verify the marks are the same distance from the tails of both skis. If not and the difference is minimal, just average it. If the distance varies greatly, re-check the above steps. (Sometimes the boot position marks on skis are miss-matched, so keep that in mind.)

Step 6 Now the origami begins. Print the template (download links are at beginning of this article), and make sure it prints at 100% scale and that your printer doesn’t change it from 100% scale.

Scale of the paper template is easy to check. Print a template and simply set your binding on the paper, if the holes line up you’re good, if not, play around with your printer settings. Also check by measuring the scale check box printed on the template. Our templates align by matching a longitudinal (tip/tail) center line you draw on your skis. Used correctly, it’ll result in a mount that’s more accurate than a mechanical binding jig.

Step 7 Make super-accurate center marks/dots (left/right) on your skis, about 12 inches forward and behind your binding toe and heel unit locations. These marks are important so take your time. You can make left/right center marks by eyeballing a ruler and double checking, or by using a drawing compass to measure from the edges, but our favorite method is to simply use folded paper, as follows:

Using paper folding to find center of ski, left-right.

Using paper folding to find center of ski, left-right.

To find center using paper, simply wrap a strip of paper around the ski, crease it over the sharp steel base edges, remove and fold in half using the edge marks as reference, then place back on ski and use the crease to locate center. While simple, work carefully (mainly, mark the spot on your ski where you place the paper, as moving it towards the tip or tail will throw things off because of the ski’s varied width.)

Connect your left/right center marks with a your yardstick and draw an accurate line using the edge of the yardstick as a guide. The idea is to create a long mark down the center of each backcountry ski in the binding mount area (in the tip/tail direction). Be sure this mark is long enough to go well past the mounting area of both front and rear binding units.

Step 8 Cut the sides off your paper templates so they’re slightly narrower than your skis, and use a pen or sharp pencil to extend the center lines to the front and rear edges of the templates. If you’ve not done so already, cut the paper template in half so you have a front and rear sections. Set the binding toe template on the ski. The trick here is to align the paper with the marks you have on your ski. Line up the center lines, and line up the front screw locations. Take your time, and tape securely to the ski (leave the ends of the centerline visible so you can check for movement off alignment.)

Toe portion of template taped to ski, ready for center punching the screw hole locations.

Toe portion of template taped to ski, ready for center punching the screw hole locations.

Be extra careful to point the template in the correct direction. An arrow points towards the ski tip.

Step 9 Now the moment of truth. First, use a sharp finely pointed object to divot the paper template on the exact screw location marks, this mark helps locate your center punch by feel, as center punches are sometimes too thick to visually locate. Next, using your your sharp center-punch tool, lightly dimple the ski at the exact center of the screw marks. Remove the paper jig.

Notice that the hole pattern for the toe unit includes one forward mark/hole that’s centered on the ski. Before drilling, make sure your center-punch mark for this hole is on the tip/tail centerline you drew on the ski. Check the other marks as well, and make sure they’re equidistant from the edges of the ski.

Once you’re sure the marks are where you want them, center punch the forward hole with a harder hit from the hammer, to make sure your drill bit doesn’t wander when you drill. Leave the other marks alone for now.

Step 10 Ahhhh, now, power tools! Chuck that sharp bit in your drill. (Using a sharp drill bit prevents the bit from wandering sideways while you drill.) Place a screw in the binding (with the plastic shoe that goes under the toe unit) as if it were already in the ski, and use the protruding screw as a gage to to figure how deep you will drill. Tape a depth stop to the drill bit by wrapping tightly with electrical tape to create the stop. Drill the marked skis with minimal pressure, so you don’t mash the bit through a ski. Remember, only drill the one front hole at this point, and be clear that you’re only working with the toe unit at this point, the heel heel comes later.

If you do totally klutz it and drill through a backcountry ski, it’s actually not that big a deal (repair with epoxy and P-tex), but it’s considered poor style — to say the least — and is none too good for your kitchen countertop. By the way, if you got the brakes for your backcountry skiing Dynafit bindings, put them on after you’ve done the mount, as they make it harder to work with the bindings. (We recommend using drill bits specially designed for ski binding mounting, see bottom of page for more information.)

Step 11 Some toe units (FT and ST) come from the factory with the screws threaded in the plastic base plate. Remove the screws, then drill out the holes in the plastic toe unit base plate so the screws fit snug but only thread minimally. The reason for this is sometimes the threading screws tend to lift the plate up off the ski as you’re doing the mount (known as “screw jacking”), in turn inspiring you to keep spinning the screws with more and more force and possibly damaging stripping the holes in your ski.

Step 12 Screw the toe unit onto the ski, using only the front/center screw in the one hole you’ve drilled. Snug down the screw but don’t tighten aggressively, as you’ll be removing it again, (don’t use a power drill to torque screws unless you’re a tool ace).

Marking the heel center for alignment with center of ski.

Marking the boot heel center for alignment with center of ski.

Step 13 This step is a double-check. Snap a boot in the binding toe that’s screwed to your ski. Mark a center line on the heel of the boot with your Sharpie, below the metal binding fitting, using the center of the screw as a reference. Drop the heel of the boot onto the ski, and center by matching with the tip/tail center mark you drew on your skin in previous steps. (The idea here is to get the boot heel and binding toe-unit centered on your ski, mark everything well, and be able to keep rechecking it.)

While keeping the boot centered, carefully unlatch the binding toe unit and remove the boot. Using the binding for reference, study the punch marks you made on the ski for the remaining four holes. Do they line up close with the holes in the binding? If so, remove toe unit, center-punch the holes a bit deeper, and drill the holes in the ski. If they’re off more than a smidgen, place the boot back in the toe, re-center heel, and repeat checking the alignment. Sometimes the combination of boot machining and whatnot results in the holes needing to be drilled slightly off (never more than a millimeter or less, in my experience). Recheck several times. If you’re still sure your punch marks are off, re-punch (the reason you first lightly punch them), re-check, and drill the new marks once you’re happy with them.

Step 14 Again, screw the Dynafit binding to the ski with just the forward center screw. Snap in the boot, drop the heel on the ski, center the boot, and remove with care. Study the holes. Several will usually line up perfectly. Install the screws into those first. Do NOT heavily tighten the screws as you’ll be removing them again later. Again, snap the boot into the binding toe, drop the heel, and use the boot as a lever to nudge the binding so that the heel lines up with your center mark (while you do this, pull the front tab up to lock the binding in touring mode, so you can thrust the boot side-to-side without it popping it out of the binding). Keep repeating this process until the screws are snug, and the heel is lined up. backcountry skiing!


Okay, you’ve got both skis mounted with your Dynafit binding toe units, the screws are snug but not heavily tightened (and not yet glued), and the heel center marks line up perfectly with those on your skis. The hard part is over. Now the heel units.

Mark location of heel unit front screws. You will use this as reference for locating the template on the ski. Extend mark across ski left-right using marker and straight edge.

Mark location of heel unit front screws. You will use this as reference for locating the template on the ski. Extend mark across ski left-right using marker and straight edge.

Step 1 Snap a backcountry skiing boot in the binding, and again drop the heel onto the ski. Grab a Dynafit heel unit, flip it upside down, and make sure the for/aft adjustment system is located at the midpoint of its range, if not, position by cranking the length adjustment screw located at the rear of the binding base plate.

Place the heel unit on the ski, and slide the metal prongs into the corresponding slots on the boot heel. Take the small plastic feeler gauge spacer provided with the Dynafit bindings, and slip it between the binding and the boot heel. With earlier TLT bindings don’t jam the spacer down over the plastic bump on the binding, but rather let it set on top of it. Later bindings may have various specifications for this “tech gap.” Indeed, models such as Radical 2.0 actually use a minimal tech gap that’s basically just a slice of light you can see between boot and binding. Be careful to set it correctly. More information here. Eyeball the heel unit so it’s centered left/right on the ski. On the top edge of the ski, make a mark that corresponds to the for/aft location of the FRONT screws. This simply shows the front/back location of the screws.

See this article for more about setting “tech gap” with various Dynafit binding models.

(Important: The thickness of the heel spacer feeler gauge and corresponding clearance setting for the Tourlite/TLT/Speed/Race binding is 4 mm , while that for the Comfort and Vertical models is 6 mm, or 5.5 mm for Vertical models starting in 2009. For some time the Radical series bindings had a heel gap of 5.5 mm, then beginning around 2014 an “in line” change was made to a heel unit with spring loaded fore/aft movement that requires a very small heel gap. If you don’t have a spacer, make one using above dimensions. Two American nickel coins are 4 millimeters.)

Step 2 Lift the boot heel up out of the way. Using a straight edge scribe a Sharpie mark across both skis, corresponding to the for/aft screw marks you just made.

Step 3 Grab the paper heel template you downloaded and printed several copies of in previous instructions, cut it down so it’s slightly narrower than your ski, and cut the ends so the center-line on the template goes to the edge of the paper.

Step 4 Place the paper template on the ski (remember to orient it via the “tip of ski” arrow on the template). Center the template left/right using the tip/tail line you drew in the center of your backcountry skis, and line up the forward screw line with that on your ski. Tape template to ski.

Step 5 Drop the boot heel down onto the ski and slide the heel unit back into place. Look down thorough the screw holes in the heel unit, and make sure they seem to line up nicely with those in the template.

If all looks good, remove the heel unit, lift the boot heel, check the location of the template to make sure it didn’t move, then center punch the screw holes.

Remove the paper template. Make another visual check. When satisfied, center punch all holes more aggressively.

Step 6 Drill the holes per drilling instructions in part one of this guide. To figure out which screw to place first, use the same process as the toe: Drop the boot heel onto the ski, place the heel unit into position, and eyeball which screw hole lines up the best. Get the boot out of the way, and place that screw first. If you need room for your screwdriver, rotate the upper part of the heel unit out of the way.

Line up the other screw holes with the holes in the base plate, hold the unit tightly to the ski so it doesn’t move, and drop the boot-heel gently down. If it lines up close to the center of the heel unit pins (within a millimeter or so), run screw number two in the other hole that lines up best.

With two screws holding the heel unit, and the release tension set super low, you can now do the final alignment test. Gently drop the boot down, and make sure the wedge shaped metal of the boot heel fitting drops between the prongs with little or no sideways nudge (a millimeter or so of misalignment is okay, you’ll fix this in step 9). Then — with a sharp press down — snap the boot into the heel piece (it should go down easily with the low release tension setting). Look and feel good? If so run the remaining two screws, checking alignment each time.

Step 7 Remove all four heel unit screws, place some epoxy or other type of ski binding mount glue in the holes, and run the screws back in. When placing the epoxy, wipe all excess off the top skin. If any oozes under the for/aft adjustment unit of the heel, it will harden and prevent fine-tuning. One-hour epoxy is best, but use 5-minute if you’re in a hurry. Continue to check alignment as you do the final torque on the screws.

Step 8 Re-check heel clearance with the small red shim, and adjust as necessary using the small screw on the rear of the base place.

Step 9 THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT, remember how you didn’t epoxy or heavily tighten the toe unit screws? Now remove all the toe unit screws, place binding mount glue in the holes, and run the screws back in. Again, tighten the forward most screw but leave the others only snug. Place boot in binding, then drop heel down. Nudge boot left or right ’till the metal fitting on the boot is nicely centered on the heel unit pins. Remove boot, and tighten toe unit screws that line up the best, re-check boot heel alignment, and continue to tighten toe unit screws. The idea is to gradually tighten the toe unit screws while making sure the heel of the boot is aligned with the backcountry skiing dynafit binding heel.

Step 10 Fine tune your boot length setting (BEWARE, doing this incorrectly is the source of many problems with tech bindings). Adjust lateral and vertical release setting according to directions in the Dynafit binding pamphlet or use the chart located below on this page. A good place to start is to use the same settings as your alpine bindings. See this article for more about Dynafit binding adjustments.


*(As near as I and others can tell , the actual physical hole dimensions of classic Dynafit bindings are: On the toe piece, the 4 hole pattern is 30mm X 26.5mm and the front hole is 18mm. On the heel piece, the hole pattern is 32mm on the front holes, 36mm on the rear holes and 52.5 mm between front and rear holes. If necessary, verify all with calipers. Radical series bindings locate front pair of screw holes 12 millimeters farther forward, and eliminate the front centered hole. Models such as Beast and Radical 2.0 use other hole patterns, detailed on our templates.)

*(Drill bits: Ski shops use special drill bits for drilling skis, usually 4.1 mm diameter for skis with metal layers, and 3.5 mm for skis without metal. If you mount a lot of backcountry skis, it’s a good idea to buy a selection of special drill bits from an outfit such as SlideWright. Along with such bits, buy a threading tool (tap) to thread the holes. In my experience, it’s okay to use the slightly larger 5/32 inch (3.9) mm) drill bit as suggested above, without a tap. If you do so, especially with non-metal skis, just be careful as you twist the screws in so you don’t over-tighten them and strip the holes, and use 1-hour epoxy in the holes since they’re slightly oversized. With skis that have a soft core and minimal binding mount reinforcement you can use the slightly smaller 9/64 inch (3.5 mm) drill bit size which is quite close to the standard ski drill size of 3.6 mm. To remove epoxied screws, lightly heat with soldering iron before twisting out, don’t use 5 minute epoxy as it’s brittle. Pozi screwdriver bits are also available from SlideWright, and mandatory. Please see our article about ski drill bits.

Binding settings DIN RV chart. Click to enlarge.

Binding settings DIN RV chart. Click to enlarge.


31 Responses to “Do it Yourself: Mount your Dynafit TLT, Comfort, Vertical, Radical ST FT & Radical 2.0, Speed Bindings”

  1. Len Feiner September 12th, 2015 1:23 pm

    I want to install radical ft z12 bindings but the template seems fractionally off for the rear screws. The fronts are spot on. Has the spacing been changed

  2. Lou Dawson 2 September 12th, 2015 2:21 pm

    Hi Len, I checked the template a million times, but I’ll do so again… Perhaps the spacing changed or you have a binding that was manufactured to one side of the tolerance. Good on you for checking before drilling! Lou

  3. Jim October 14th, 2015 11:15 pm

    Lou, Where can I find a schematic of the Vertical ST heel. It blew up when I was trying to replace the plate and volcano after my wife cracked both her volcanos. Thanks.

  4. Lou Dawson 2 October 15th, 2015 7:24 am
  5. George December 11th, 2015 10:26 am

    Hi Lou!
    I want to mount a TLT Turn2.0 on my new skis (waist 88) but face the following problem: I want to use two different ski boots on the same skis!
    My Alien has BSL 287mm, while the ONE has 304mm. The heel has +/- 12mm so it can be adjusted for both. However, what’s the best position, regarding midsoles?
    If I align a friend’s TLT6 (BSL 297mm) to mount at the ski midpoint, then the 287mm will be slightly forward, while the 304mm slightly back from the ski’s midpoint.
    Alternatively I could align the 304mm midsole to ski midpoint with the heel plate at +12mm and use the full travel of the heel to adjust for the Aliens but in that case, the 287mm’s midsole will be much more forward than the ski midpoint.
    How would these different options affect the behavior of the ski? What would you recommend?
    Thanks in advance,

  6. Adam January 5th, 2016 4:57 pm

    I just received replacement heel pieces for my Radical STs from Dynafit and am installing them myself, which may be my first mistake. I can’t tell how far to screw in the very large screw at the back of the heel piece that adjusts the lateral release. It seems to screw in very easily and can rotate multiple times past the DIN settings so I can’t tell how many times it should go around before I am in the right range. Any help with this would be appreciated. Trying to adjust it to a 7 DIN.

  7. Mark Mace February 12th, 2016 9:39 pm

    Thanks, Lou , this will make it a snap. Mark Mace.

  8. Lou 2 February 13th, 2016 6:47 am

    Mark, I’ll email you. Since you are nearby you should stop by my studio and I’ll help you. Lou

  9. Mark Mace February 13th, 2016 8:32 pm

    Lou, went well with the templates per your instructions today. the shop didn’t have templates. Have been alpine skiing with tele gear for years for leg action going up but this stuff is plus 2 lbs. lighter for each foot and the action in the TLT5 Mt. boot is great. Like the removable stiffeners..lighter up. Thanks, Mark. I have a small studio downtown too since closing my gallery of 8 yrs. in Ouray. We should exchange visits!

  10. Nick February 28th, 2016 3:20 pm

    Hi Lou and others,

    Thanks for all of the detailed instructions you provide to your readrs. I plan on installing a new pair of G3 ION 12 on a new pair of HM Cham 107s sometime this coming. Will be following your instructions above as well as those on the ION threads.

    1) If I am going to use a sharp and new 5/32″ bit and use electrical tape to set the depth on the bit (after inserting the screw into the binding plate, how deep should the bit go? to the bottom tip of the screw? or do you want to stop short to give it something to bite? (as a sidenote, I might install inserts later, but not at this moment). I don’t intent to tap it….unless you think I should.

    2) In order to avoid volcanoing (particularly on the heel piece), do you use a special bit or just something wider diameter lightly pressed and ~ 0.5-1 mm of depth to countersink?

    3) Plan to use the 1-hour epoxy? Will that come out with heating in case I want to put in inserts?

  11. Lou Dawson 2 February 28th, 2016 4:22 pm

    Hi Nick, the depth of the bit should be about 8 mm, main thing is that it makes a hole through the binding reinforcement plate and ski “shell.” I don’t worry too much about volcanoing, if the binding ends up flat on the ski then that’s a non-issue. One hour epoxy is fine for most mounts, and will release with heat. If your ski has a strong mounting plate and you’re not doing crazy stuff, 5-minute epoxy is also ok but 1-hour is much easier to work with and quite a bit stronger. Practice on an old ski. Lou

  12. Nick February 28th, 2016 8:15 pm

    Thanks Lou! I appreciate the advice. I do have an old skinny pair of skis that a buddy left at my house before he moved back to Europe. They might be too skinny to do a full practice mount, but I can at least pretend. 🙂

  13. Mike D. March 6th, 2016 1:54 pm

    Hey guys, I am wanting to switch my Radical FTs back to some old Fischer BigStix and put some Beast 14s on my Icelantic Nomads instead.

    Q1, can I use the old holes in the BigStix (10.6FX Carbon) ?
    Q2, are the FT and Beast 14 patterns the same ?
    and so,
    Q3, can I use the old holes in the Nomads

    🙄 ❗

    Many thanks
    Mike D.

  14. Mike D. March 8th, 2016 5:52 am

    hey there guys, found all my answers and then some in Lou’s great Beast FAQ and other postings.

    thanks a bunch !
    Mike D.

  15. Quesobol March 19th, 2016 3:16 am

    Hello. I just bought a pair of Dynastar Champ Alti 80 skis 178 cm and I don’t find the boot mounting mark to set Dynafit St Bindings. Can you help me? Thank you.

  16. paige November 6th, 2016 1:55 pm

    Hi Lou,
    I am looking @ buying a pair of skis pre mounted w/ the Dynafit ST.
    The skis have been mounted to fit a boot that is 2 sizes larger than my boot, (mine, 287/24.5, ski mounted to 297/26.5)
    Will the heel plate slide to accommodate my smaller boot or will I need to remount the binders?

    May the powder be with you!

  17. Lou Dawson 2 November 6th, 2016 7:16 pm

    Hi Paige, hard to say for sure. Generally, if you want your boot to be in the optimal position on the ski you’d do a complete remount, binding toe and heel. Otherwise your foot position can end up ahead of optimal. Lou

  18. Chris November 24th, 2016 12:57 am

    Hi Lou,
    I want to check my Radical ST binding.
    What is the correct distance (mm) between Boot and heel part?
    Sorry I can´t find it!
    Thank You

  19. Lou Dawson 2 November 24th, 2016 7:16 am

    Hi Chris, I’m pretty sure there is a functional link to that information, in the text above. Let me know if there is some kind of problem with it. Thanks, Lou

  20. Jeff November 28th, 2016 9:29 pm

    I have a pair of Dynafit Speed Turns on which the plastic nubbins on the top of the climbing aids are broken. It seems like one could complete a DIY fix with a few strong washers and the stock nut and bolt, but would welcome other DIY fix options. Thanks.

  21. Lou Dawson 2 November 29th, 2016 8:02 am

    Hi Jeff, you don’t need the nubbins unless you like the height they give you, though removing them will create a small wear point on the sole of your boot if you do a lot of miles using the heel lift. And yes, just put a bolt, nut and washers in there if you need the height, though again, watch for boot sole wear. If you want to match height of nubbins or exceed a bit just get a nylon spacer at the hardware store. Lou

  22. Spider Savage December 26th, 2016 11:21 am

    This article helped. My biggest trouble was working around the breke on the rear binding to get the screws in without decent tools. I succeeded by moving the binding all the way back, then putting the front screws in first, then move the binding forward and put the back screws in, then moving the binding all the way back again to tighten the rear screws all the way. Other notes. I made my own template. Used Barge Cement instead of epoxy in case I ever want to take them off.
    (Dynafit Radical ST2 bindings)

  23. Jasper January 8th, 2017 7:10 pm

    I am trying to mount some Plum Race 150 bindings. I am having a hard time finding a good template for the heel. Does wildsnow have one? Does anybody have one? What software has Lou used to make the wildsnow library of templates?

  24. Dan January 8th, 2017 9:50 pm

    @ Jasper – here’s the dimensions (found on

    Plum Race 135/145/150 Toe = 30 x 26.5 Heel = 20.5 x 26

    You can definitely hand draw a template. Just make a straight line on a piece of paper and measure the dimensions off it. Measure many times to make sure it is accurate, then check it with the binding itself.

    I’ve done the same for my Plum 170 heels and also a Hagan adjustment plate – is super accurate as long as you are!

  25. José Luis February 3rd, 2017 12:18 pm

    Hello; and thank you for the future request.
    I want mount Atomic Backland Tour Bindings at mi Atomic UL78 ski; but I don´t have any template about this binding.
    Do yo Know the dimension of the holes and the dimension of the drill bit? 3.5 or 4.1?

  26. Lou 2 February 3rd, 2017 2:39 pm
  27. José luis February 3rd, 2017 4:54 pm

    Thanks a lots Lou; I think that can I help me a lot.
    But do you know de diameter need of the drill bit?

  28. Lou 2 February 4th, 2017 2:25 am

    If the ski mount area has metal layer use the 4.1. My recollection is there is metal, but I am not certain, you can drill one hole with a smaller bit first to check composition of ski. Lou

  29. José Luis March 8th, 2017 2:40 am

    Thanks for all Lou; it looks and works perfect with the mounting tips you told me.

  30. Andy April 5th, 2017 5:03 pm

    You should clarify that the toepiece should be fully locked on to the boot when mounting the new 2.0 bindings. This way it mounts the boot in the center instead of rotated some amount as it is Possible with the new style binding.

  31. Lou Dawson 2 April 5th, 2017 5:40 pm

    Good point Andy, thanks!

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  Your Comments

  • Sam: Another common problem I've encountered over the years is premature contact...
  • James Moss: Thanks Dave!...
  • Ted D: If you use the model with brakes, can they be easily removed if one wants t...
  • Thom Mackris: One nit I have to pick with manufacturers of most tech bindings is the fact...
  • Dave Smith: An interesting look back at a rudimentary technology. Snowy Torrents I doc...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Patrick, can you be more clear? Are you talking about the boot ending up to...
  • Patrick: An oddly frequent error from shops that don't mount many tech bindings: bin...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Mounting the heel first is key, but can be done _after_ drilling all holes ...
  • XXX_er: I asked the local shop guy/ski bud how he mounted AT and he gave me a real ...
  • JCoates: I agree with atfred. I'm about 50% success rate with shoulder reductions in...
  • Camilo: Thanks Lou! For #1, a key tip is to mount bindings using both boots, espec...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Sure, especially if the bindings was "worked" for a few days....
  • atfred: Would one stripped screw (out of four or five) really cause a binding to ri...
  • Trevor: Thanks Trollanski and Lou!...
  • Dave: I remember a version of the avalanche cord that was wound up on a reel that...
  • Rudi: I understand the "Tour Lite" wont be available in NA this year. Anybody kno...
  • Jim Pace: I've seen/experienced every one of these. You covered it all I think. On ...
  • See: It seems to me that if you attempt to fix problem 2 on Mt. Olympus using th...
  • Charlie Hagedorn: Great checklist, Lou! Especially valuable for someone new to tech bindings....
  • Lou Dawson 2: Trollan, thanks for noticing Trevor's message, I indeed missed it! Your com...
  • trollanski: Hey Trevor. Saw that you did not get a response on this one, but these two...
  • Jim Milstein: "Alpine ski touring" vs "nordic ski touring" is excellent! These phrases se...
  • atfred: One caveat re a dislocated shoulder (from personal experience), if you're j...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Russell, there is no one ski/binding/boot combo that will do everything. If...
  • Raz: Thanks for your answer. I am doing the first major gear upgrade in many yea...
  • Lou Dawson 2: Raz, with all due respect, it's ridiculous to evaluate a ski binding by its...
  • Russell McGinnis: Dave - It functions similarly to a regular Alpine bindings by having the la...
  • Raz: I am about to install the Tecton on a pair of Blizzard Zero G 108 - 185 cm....
  • Jonathan Moceri: VTskier, Thanks for bringing up the dislocated shoulder scenario. Wh...
  • VTskier: I meant above as temperature 'decreases" or isolation increases on a trip d...

  Recent Posts

Welcome to Louis (Lou) Dawson's backcountry skiing information & opinion website. Lou's passion for the past 50 years has been alpinism, climbing, mountaineering and skiing -- along with all manner of outdoor recreation. He has authored numerous books and articles about ski touring and is well known as the first person to ski down all 54 of Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks, otherwise known as the Fourteeners! Books and free ski touring news and information here.

All material on this website is copyrighted, the name WildSnow is trademarked, permission required for reproduction (electronic or otherwise) and display on other websites. PLEASE SEE OUR COPYRIGHT and TRADEMARK INFORMATION.

Backcountry skiing is dangerous. You may be killed or severely injured if you do any form of ski mountaineering, skimo randonnee and randonnée skiing. The information and news on this website is intended only as general information. While the authors and editors of the information on this website make every effort to present useful information about ski mountaineering, due to human error and passing time, the information, text and images contained within this website may be inaccurate, false, or out-of-date. By using, reading or viewing the information provided on this website, you agree to absolve the owners of Wild Snow as well as content contributors of any liability for injuries or losses incurred while using such information. Furthermore, you agree to use any of this website's information, maps, photos, or binding mounting instructions templates at your own risk, and waive Wild Snow owners and contributors of liability for use of said items for ski touring or any other use.

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