Do it Yourself: Mount your Dynafit TLT, Comfort, Vertical, Radical, Speed and Rotation Bindings

Post by blogger | September 26, 2017      

(This post sponsored by our publishing partner Cripple Creek Backcountry.)

Dynafit bindings, you can mount them yourself, but do it carefully.

Dynafit bindings, you can mount them yourself, but do it carefully.

Homebrew DIY backcountry ski touring binding install tricks and tips, mount them yourself! I’ve worked on this post constantly since it was published some time ago. Once every few years we re-pub with a current date so it’s clear that we keep it as current as possible This time we have the support of Cripple Creek Backcountry helping to keep it going. I know the process I outline is a bit complicated. I’ve not found a way to make it simpler without introducing possible errors that novices could make. If you have a modicum of experience, you’ll find some of the steps to be redundant or easily shortcut. Please keep that in mind. Novices, don’t skip any steps!

Instructions below picture an early Dynafit binding model, but work for most other models (check hole patterns by setting binding on paper template, some early bindings have heel unit hole patterns that may be slightly different.)

Disclaimer: By using these mounting instructions and templates, you agree to not hold, its owners or associates liable for anything. We provide no obligatory support or help with using these instructions — you are on your own. If you have questions or observations, please bring them up as a comment on this post.

(Be aware that in the case of Dynafit Radical FT 12 the distance between toe and heel has to be perfectly set for the binding’s “stiffening plate” to function as designed. We’ve tested and skied this binding and felt no difference with the stiffening switched on or off (or removed entirely). For ease of mounting the Radical FT, we’d recommend not worrying about the stiffening plate, simply leave it off — chuck it in the trash or hang as a mirror medallion in your Sprinter van. See this post for bench evaluation of FT 12 stiffening damper plate.)

Note that some Dynafit models with brakes, such as Vertical/ST/FT and Radical, may require removal of brakes to facilitate mounting. Instructions for brake removal are here. That said, starting in late 2012 the Dynafit Radical FT and ST models have brakes that are NOT user removable, other later models also do not have removable brakes. For easier access to mounting screws, with most tech bindings you can remove the remove the heel housing from the heel plate, though doing so is often not necessary if you have the right tooling (torx 2.0 or posidrive driver, with skinny section about 3 inches long to fit between brake and heel housing.)

Warning: These instructions are based on using a paper template you will download and print, please verify scale of printing by comparing template to actual physical binding — before drilling holes in ski.

The keys to success in home mounting bindings are careful measurement, moving slow, and using the paper template and your boots as a substitute for the mechanical jig used by ski shops. Also, IMPORTANT: if you’re new to ski work slow down and do a practice mount on a pair of dumpster skis or a 2×4.

What I’m presenting here is one of many ways a craftsman could achieve a good backcountry ski touring binding mount. If you’re comfortable with tools and measurements, you’ll probably figure out a few variations along the way. For example, after you’ve done a few mounts it speeds things up if you do the heel unit first, but for novices we recommend starting with the toe unit as doing so will force you to be super careful with locating the boot on the ski and centering the binding. Whatever you do, just remember the theme here is to center the bindings left/right on the ski, and locate the boot so it matches the boot location mark on the ski.

How To Do The Deed

For mounting ski bindings you need a solid workbench or kitchen counter. Cover your counters with something liked taped butcher paper, but leave the outside counter edge exposed in case you need it for reference. Tools and materials list:

– Handheld screwdriver with pozidrive 3 or torx bit 20, depending on binding (see notes below)

– Electric drill with sharp 5/32 inch bit or special ski bit (see notes below)

– Electrical tape, clear office tape, masking tape, and of course duct tape

– Sharp center-punch, with associated hammer

– Straight steel or plastic “yardstick” type ruler

– Tape measure

– Fine point Sharpie type marker

– Epoxy, one-hour type prefered

Wildsnow paper template for most Dynafit bindings (jig)

Wildsnow Radical 2.0 & Rotation template (jig)

– Scissors, blank paper and paper punch

Dynafit Speed Radical backcountry skiing binding, 2012/13 model.

Dynafit Speed Radical backcountry skiing binding, 2012/13 model.

Step 1 Make sure you know where the mounting mark (aka “sole midpoint”) is on your backcountry skiing boots. It’s usually a small vertical line, arrow, or triangle molded into the side or bottom of the sole, midway between heel and toe. If your boot doesn’t have it, simply make a mark half the distance between toe and heel. Enhance the mark with your Sharpie so you can’t miss it (bring the mark over to the edge of the sole so you can see it from the side).

Step 2 Find the boot mounting mark on the skis; usually a small triangle or line that’s at the approximate midpoint of where you would imagine a boot sitting on the ski. Be sure you get the correct mark — if in doubt ask a shop rat or contact the ski manufacturer.

Step 3 Using a marker pen (Sharpie) extend the boot mark across the top surface of the ski, left to right. Eyeball this using a straightedge. If you feel challenged, you can align the skis with the edge of your work surface and use a large framing square to make the marks square to the skis. The idea here is to make an easily visible mark on top of the skis, for referencing the boot and paper template positions.

Step 4 Install a binding toe unit on a boot and place boot on a ski. Align boot center mark with ski mark. Hold the boot steady and carefully press the binding toe down on the ski, as you do this, keep the boot aligned with the boot center mark on ski. Once the binding toe is snugged down on the ski, mark the center of the front pair of screw holes (in this process, you are using the binding as a template).

Step 6 Remove boot and binding from ski. Using a straightedge, make a left-right marks across the ski showing the positions of the screw holes you just marked.

Step 6a Tape measure from ski tail to the mark you made, transfer measurement to the other ski and make a matching mark.

(You will align your paper template with the screw position marks you made.)

Step 6Print the paper template (links are at beginning of this article), and make sure it prints at 100% scale and that your printer doesn’t change it from 100% scale.

Scale of the paper template is easy to check. Print a template and simply set your binding on the paper, if the holes line up you’re good, if not, play around with your printer settings. Also check by measuring the scale check box printed on the template. Our templates align by matching a longitudinal (tip/tail) center line you draw on your skis. Used correctly, this results in a mount that’s often more accurate than a mechanical binding jig.

Step 7 Make super-accurate center marks/dots (left/right) on your skis, about 12 inches forward and behind your binding toe and heel unit locations. These marks are important so take your time. You can make left/right center marks by eyeballing a ruler and double checking, or by using a drawing compass to measure from the edges, but our favorite method is to simply use folded paper, as follows:

Using paper folding to find center of ski, left-right.

Using paper folding to find center of ski, left-right.

To find center using paper, simply wrap a strip of paper around the ski, crease it over the sharp steel base edges, remove and fold in half using the edge marks as reference, then place back on ski and use the crease to locate center. While simple, work carefully (mainly, mark the spot on your ski where you place the paper, as moving it towards the tip or tail will throw things off because of the ski’s varied width.)

Connect your left/right center marks with a your yardstick and draw an accurate line using the edge of the yardstick as a guide. The idea is to create a long mark down the center of each backcountry ski in the binding mount area (in the tip/tail direction). Be sure this mark is long enough to go well past the mounting area of both front and rear binding units.

Step 8 Cut the sides off your paper templates so they’re slightly narrower than your skis, and use a pen or sharp pencil to extend the center lines to the front and rear edges of the templates. If you’ve not done so already, cut the paper template in half so you have a front and rear sections. Set the binding toe template on the ski. The trick here is to align the paper with the marks you have on your ski. Line up the center lines, and line up the front screw locations. Take your time, and tape securely to the ski (leave the ends of the centerline visible so you can check for movement off alignment.)

Toe portion of template taped to ski, ready for center punching the screw hole locations.

Toe portion of template taped to ski, ready for center punching the screw hole locations.

Be extra careful to point the template in the correct direction. An arrow points towards the ski tip.

Step 9 Now the moment of truth. First, use a sharp finely pointed object to divot the paper template on the exact screw location marks, this mark helps locate your center punch by feel, as center punches are sometimes too thick to visually locate. Next, using your your sharp center-punch tool, lightly dimple the ski at the exact center of the screw marks. Remove the paper jig.

Notice that the hole pattern for the toe unit includes one forward mark/hole that’s centered on the ski. Before drilling, make sure your center-punch mark for this hole is on the tip/tail centerline you drew on the ski. Check the other marks as well, and make sure they’re equidistant from the edges of the ski.

Once you’re sure the marks are where you want them, center punch the forward hole with a harder hit from the hammer, to make sure your drill bit doesn’t wander when you drill. Leave the other marks alone for now.

Step 10 Ahhhh, now, power tools! Chuck that sharp bit in your drill. (Using a sharp drill bit prevents the bit from wandering sideways while you drill.) Place a screw in the binding (with the plastic shoe that goes under the toe unit) as if it were already in the ski, and use the protruding screw as a gage to to figure how deep you will drill. Tape a depth stop to the drill bit by wrapping tightly with electrical tape to create the stop. Drill the marked skis with minimal pressure, so you don’t mash the bit through a ski. Remember, only drill the ONE front hole at this point, and be clear that you’re only working with the toe unit at this point, the heel heel comes later.

Which hole to drill first? In the case of 5-hole tech binding toes, drill the forward center hole. If your binding toe has 4 screws, set the binding on the ski, eyeball the marks you’ve made, and drill the one that seems closest to being perfect in terms of allowing the binding to to sit centered on the ski.

If you do totally klutz it and drill through a ski, it’s actually not that big a deal (repair with epoxy and P-tex), but reaming a ski is considered poor style — to say the least — and is none too good for your kitchen countertop.

Step 11 Some toe units (FT and ST) come from the factory with the screws threaded in the plastic base plate. Remove the screws, then drill out the holes in the plastic toe unit base plate so the screws fit snug but only thread minimally. The reason for this is sometimes the threading screws tend to lift the plate up off the ski as you’re doing the mount (known as “screw jacking”), in turn inspiring you to keep spinning the screws with more and more force and possibly damaging stripping the holes in your ski.

Step 12 Screw the toe unit onto the ski, using only one screw in the one hole you’ve drilled. Snug down the screw but don’t tighten aggressively, as you’ll be removing it again, (don’t use glue at this stage, and don’t use a power drill to torque screws unless you’re a tool ace).

Marking the heel center for alignment with center of ski.

Marking the boot heel center for alignment with center of ski.

Step 13 This step is a double-check. Snap a boot in the binding toe that’s screwed to your ski. Mark a center line on the heel of the boot with your Sharpie, below the metal binding fitting, using the center of the screw as a reference. Drop the heel of the boot onto the ski, and center by matching with the tip/tail center mark you drew on your skin in previous steps. (The idea here is to get the boot heel and binding toe-unit centered on your ski, mark everything well, and be able to keep rechecking it.)

While keeping the boot centered, carefully unlatch the binding toe unit and remove the boot. Using the binding for reference, study the punch marks you made on the ski for the remaining holes. Do they line up close with the holes in the binding? If so, remove toe unit, center-punch the holes a bit deeper, and drill the holes in the ski. If they’re off more than a smidgen, place the boot back in the toe, re-center heel, and repeat checking the alignment. Sometimes the combination of boot machining and whatnot results in the holes needing to be drilled slightly off (never more than a millimeter or less, in my experience). Recheck several times. If you’re still sure your punch marks are off, re-punch (the reason you first lightly punch them), re-check, and drill the new marks once you’re happy with them.

Step 14 Again, screw the Dynafit binding to the ski with just the forward center screw. Snap in the boot, drop the heel on the ski, center the boot, and remove with care. Study the holes. Several will usually line up perfectly. Install the screws into those first. Do NOT heavily tighten the screws as you’ll be removing them again later. Again, snap the boot into the binding toe, drop the heel, and use the boot as a lever to nudge the binding so that the heel lines up with your center mark (while you do this, pull the front tab up to lock the binding in touring mode, so you can thrust the boot side-to-side without it popping it out of the binding). Keep repeating this process until the screws are snug, and the heel is lined up. backcountry skiing!


Okay, you’ve got both skis mounted with your Dynafit binding toe units, the screws are snug but not heavily tightened (and not yet glued), and the heel center marks line up perfectly with those on your skis. The hard part is over. Now the heel units.

Mark location of heel unit front screws. You will use this as reference for locating the template on the ski. Extend mark across ski left-right using marker and straight edge.

Mark location of heel unit front screws. You will use this as reference for locating the template on the ski. Extend mark across ski left-right using marker and straight edge.

Step 1 Snap a backcountry skiing boot in the binding, and again drop the heel onto the ski. Grab a Dynafit heel unit, flip it upside down, and make sure the for/aft adjustment system is located at the midpoint of its range, if not, position by cranking the length adjustment screw located at the rear of the binding base plate.

Place the heel unit on the ski, and slide the metal pins-prongs into the corresponding slots on the boot heel. If your binding requires a heel gap, grab the small plastic feeler gauge spacer provided with the bindings, and slip it between the binding and the boot heel. With earlier TLT bindings don’t jam the spacer down over the plastic bump on the binding, but rather let it set on top of it. Later bindings may have various specifications for this “tech gap.” Indeed, models such as Radical 2.0 actually use a minimal tech gap that’s basically just a slice of light you can see between boot and binding. Be careful to set this correctly. More information here. Eyeball the heel unit so it’s centered left/right on the ski. On the top edge of the ski, make a mark that corresponds to the for/aft location of the FRONT screws. This simply shows the front/back location of the screws.

See this article for more about setting “tech gap” with various Dynafit binding models.

(Important: The thickness of the heel spacer feeler gauge and corresponding clearance setting for the Tourlite/TLT/Speed/Race binding is 4 mm , while that for the Comfort and Vertical models is 6 mm, or 5.5 mm for Vertical models starting in 2009. For some time the Radical series bindings had a heel gap of 5.5 mm, then beginning around 2014 an “in line” change was made to a heel unit with spring loaded fore/aft movement that requires a very small heel gap. If you don’t have a spacer, make one using above dimensions. Two American nickel coins are 4 millimeters.)

Step 2 Lift the boot heel up out of the way. Using a straight edge scribe a Sharpie mark across both skis, corresponding to the for/aft screw marks you just made.

Step 3 Grab the paper heel template you downloaded and printed several copies of in previous instructions, cut it down so it’s slightly narrower than your ski, and cut the ends so the center-line on the template goes to the edge of the paper.

Step 4 Place the paper template on the ski (remember to orient it via the “tip of ski” arrow on the template). Center the template left/right using the tip/tail line you drew in the center of your backcountry skis, and line up the forward screw line with that on your ski. Tape template to ski.

Step 5 Drop the boot heel down onto the ski and slide the heel unit back into place. Look down thorough the screw holes in the heel unit, and make sure they seem to line up nicely with those in the template.

If all looks good, remove the heel unit, lift the boot heel, check the location of the template to make sure it didn’t move, then center punch the screw holes.

Remove the paper template. Make another visual check. When satisfied, center punch all holes more aggressively.

Step 6 Drill the holes per drilling instructions in part one of this guide. To figure out which screw to place first, use the same process as the toe: Drop the boot heel onto the ski, place the heel unit into position, and eyeball which screw hole lines up the best. Get the boot out of the way, and place that screw first. If you need room for your screwdriver, rotate the upper part of the heel unit out of the way.

Line up the other screw holes with the holes in the base plate, hold the unit tightly to the ski so it doesn’t move, and drop the boot-heel gently down. If it lines up close to the center of the heel unit pins (within a millimeter or so), run screw number two in the other hole that lines up best.

With two screws holding the heel unit, and the release tension set super low, you can now do the final alignment test. Gently drop the boot down, and make sure the wedge shaped metal of the boot heel fitting drops between the prongs with little or no sideways nudge (a millimeter or so of misalignment is okay, you’ll fix this in step 9). Then — with a sharp press down — snap the boot into the heel piece (it should go down easily with the low release tension setting). Look and feel good? If so run the remaining two screws, checking alignment each time.

Step 7 Remove all four heel unit screws, place some epoxy or other type of ski binding mount glue in the holes, and run the screws back in. When placing the epoxy, wipe all excess off the top skin. If any oozes under the for/aft adjustment unit of the heel, it will harden and prevent fine-tuning. One-hour epoxy is best, but use 5-minute if you’re in a hurry. Continue to check alignment as you do the final torque on the screws.

Step 8 Re-check heel clearance with the small red shim, and adjust as necessary using the small screw on the rear of the base place.

Step 9 THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT, remember how you didn’t epoxy or heavily tighten the toe unit screws? Now remove all the toe unit screws, place binding mount glue in the holes, and run the screws back in. Again, tighten the forward most screw but leave the others only snug. Place boot in binding, then drop heel down. Nudge boot left or right ’till the metal fitting on the boot is nicely centered on the heel unit pins. Remove boot, and tighten toe unit screws that line up the best, re-check boot heel alignment, and continue to tighten toe unit screws. The idea is to gradually tighten the toe unit screws while making sure the heel of the boot is aligned with the backcountry skiing dynafit binding heel.

Step 10 Fine tune your boot length setting (BEWARE, doing this incorrectly is the source of many problems with tech bindings). Adjust lateral and vertical release setting according to directions in the Dynafit binding pamphlet or use the chart located below on this page. A good place to start is to use the same settings as your alpine bindings. See this article for more about Dynafit binding adjustments.


*As near as I and others can tell , the actual physical hole dimensions of classic Dynafit bindings are: On the toe piece, the 4 hole pattern is 30mm X 26.5mm and the front hole is 18mm. On the heel piece, the hole pattern is 32mm on the front holes, 36mm on the rear holes and 52.5 mm between front and rear holes. If necessary, verify all with calipers. Radical series bindings locate front pair of screw holes 12 millimeters farther forward, and eliminate the front centered hole. Models such as Beast and Radical 2.0 use other hole patterns, detailed on our templates.

*Drill bits: Ski shops use special drill bits for drilling skis, usually 4.1 mm diameter for skis with metal layers, and 3.5 mm for skis without metal. If you mount a lot of backcountry skis, it’s a good idea to buy a selection of special drill bits from an outfit such as SlideWright. Along with such bits, buy a threading tool (tap) to thread the holes. In my experience, it’s okay to use the slightly larger 5/32 inch (3.9) mm) drill bit as suggested above, without a tap. If you do so, especially with non-metal skis, just be careful as you twist the screws in so you don’t over-tighten them and strip the holes, and use 1-hour epoxy in the holes since they’re slightly oversized. With skis that have a soft core and minimal binding mount reinforcement you can use the slightly smaller 9/64 inch (3.5 mm) drill bit size which is quite close to the standard ski drill size of 3.6 mm. To remove epoxied screws, lightly heat with soldering iron before twisting out, don’t use 5 minute epoxy as it’s brittle. Please see our article about ski drill bits.

*Pozi screwdriver bits are also available from SlideWright or other suppliers, and mandatory if you’re dealing with pozidrive screws. Likewise, Torx (star drive) 20. Check out our extensive coverage of tools for your home ski shop.

Related linkage:
7 Deadly Sins of Tech Binding Mounting

Binding settings DIN RV chart. Click to enlarge.

Binding settings DIN RV chart. Click to enlarge.



84 Responses to “Do it Yourself: Mount your Dynafit TLT, Comfort, Vertical, Radical, Speed and Rotation Bindings”

  1. Len Feiner September 12th, 2015 1:23 pm

    I want to install radical ft z12 bindings but the template seems fractionally off for the rear screws. The fronts are spot on. Has the spacing been changed

  2. Lou Dawson 2 September 12th, 2015 2:21 pm

    Hi Len, I checked the template a million times, but I’ll do so again… Perhaps the spacing changed or you have a binding that was manufactured to one side of the tolerance. Good on you for checking before drilling! Lou

  3. Jim October 14th, 2015 11:15 pm

    Lou, Where can I find a schematic of the Vertical ST heel. It blew up when I was trying to replace the plate and volcano after my wife cracked both her volcanos. Thanks.

  4. Lou Dawson 2 October 15th, 2015 7:24 am
  5. George December 11th, 2015 10:26 am

    Hi Lou!
    I want to mount a TLT Turn2.0 on my new skis (waist 88) but face the following problem: I want to use two different ski boots on the same skis!
    My Alien has BSL 287mm, while the ONE has 304mm. The heel has +/- 12mm so it can be adjusted for both. However, what’s the best position, regarding midsoles?
    If I align a friend’s TLT6 (BSL 297mm) to mount at the ski midpoint, then the 287mm will be slightly forward, while the 304mm slightly back from the ski’s midpoint.
    Alternatively I could align the 304mm midsole to ski midpoint with the heel plate at +12mm and use the full travel of the heel to adjust for the Aliens but in that case, the 287mm’s midsole will be much more forward than the ski midpoint.
    How would these different options affect the behavior of the ski? What would you recommend?
    Thanks in advance,

  6. Adam January 5th, 2016 4:57 pm

    I just received replacement heel pieces for my Radical STs from Dynafit and am installing them myself, which may be my first mistake. I can’t tell how far to screw in the very large screw at the back of the heel piece that adjusts the lateral release. It seems to screw in very easily and can rotate multiple times past the DIN settings so I can’t tell how many times it should go around before I am in the right range. Any help with this would be appreciated. Trying to adjust it to a 7 DIN.

  7. Mark Mace February 12th, 2016 9:39 pm

    Thanks, Lou , this will make it a snap. Mark Mace.

  8. Lou 2 February 13th, 2016 6:47 am

    Mark, I’ll email you. Since you are nearby you should stop by my studio and I’ll help you. Lou

  9. Mark Mace February 13th, 2016 8:32 pm

    Lou, went well with the templates per your instructions today. the shop didn’t have templates. Have been alpine skiing with tele gear for years for leg action going up but this stuff is plus 2 lbs. lighter for each foot and the action in the TLT5 Mt. boot is great. Like the removable stiffeners..lighter up. Thanks, Mark. I have a small studio downtown too since closing my gallery of 8 yrs. in Ouray. We should exchange visits!

  10. Nick February 28th, 2016 3:20 pm

    Hi Lou and others,

    Thanks for all of the detailed instructions you provide to your readrs. I plan on installing a new pair of G3 ION 12 on a new pair of HM Cham 107s sometime this coming. Will be following your instructions above as well as those on the ION threads.

    1) If I am going to use a sharp and new 5/32″ bit and use electrical tape to set the depth on the bit (after inserting the screw into the binding plate, how deep should the bit go? to the bottom tip of the screw? or do you want to stop short to give it something to bite? (as a sidenote, I might install inserts later, but not at this moment). I don’t intent to tap it….unless you think I should.

    2) In order to avoid volcanoing (particularly on the heel piece), do you use a special bit or just something wider diameter lightly pressed and ~ 0.5-1 mm of depth to countersink?

    3) Plan to use the 1-hour epoxy? Will that come out with heating in case I want to put in inserts?

  11. Lou Dawson 2 February 28th, 2016 4:22 pm

    Hi Nick, the depth of the bit should be about 8 mm, main thing is that it makes a hole through the binding reinforcement plate and ski “shell.” I don’t worry too much about volcanoing, if the binding ends up flat on the ski then that’s a non-issue. One hour epoxy is fine for most mounts, and will release with heat. If your ski has a strong mounting plate and you’re not doing crazy stuff, 5-minute epoxy is also ok but 1-hour is much easier to work with and quite a bit stronger. Practice on an old ski. Lou

  12. Nick February 28th, 2016 8:15 pm

    Thanks Lou! I appreciate the advice. I do have an old skinny pair of skis that a buddy left at my house before he moved back to Europe. They might be too skinny to do a full practice mount, but I can at least pretend. 🙂

  13. Mike D. March 6th, 2016 1:54 pm

    Hey guys, I am wanting to switch my Radical FTs back to some old Fischer BigStix and put some Beast 14s on my Icelantic Nomads instead.

    Q1, can I use the old holes in the BigStix (10.6FX Carbon) ?
    Q2, are the FT and Beast 14 patterns the same ?
    and so,
    Q3, can I use the old holes in the Nomads

    🙄 ❗

    Many thanks
    Mike D.

  14. Mike D. March 8th, 2016 5:52 am

    hey there guys, found all my answers and then some in Lou’s great Beast FAQ and other postings.

    thanks a bunch !
    Mike D.

  15. Quesobol March 19th, 2016 3:16 am

    Hello. I just bought a pair of Dynastar Champ Alti 80 skis 178 cm and I don’t find the boot mounting mark to set Dynafit St Bindings. Can you help me? Thank you.

  16. paige November 6th, 2016 1:55 pm

    Hi Lou,
    I am looking @ buying a pair of skis pre mounted w/ the Dynafit ST.
    The skis have been mounted to fit a boot that is 2 sizes larger than my boot, (mine, 287/24.5, ski mounted to 297/26.5)
    Will the heel plate slide to accommodate my smaller boot or will I need to remount the binders?

    May the powder be with you!

  17. Lou Dawson 2 November 6th, 2016 7:16 pm

    Hi Paige, hard to say for sure. Generally, if you want your boot to be in the optimal position on the ski you’d do a complete remount, binding toe and heel. Otherwise your foot position can end up ahead of optimal. Lou

  18. Chris November 24th, 2016 12:57 am

    Hi Lou,
    I want to check my Radical ST binding.
    What is the correct distance (mm) between Boot and heel part?
    Sorry I can´t find it!
    Thank You

  19. Lou Dawson 2 November 24th, 2016 7:16 am

    Hi Chris, I’m pretty sure there is a functional link to that information, in the text above. Let me know if there is some kind of problem with it. Thanks, Lou

  20. Jeff November 28th, 2016 9:29 pm

    I have a pair of Dynafit Speed Turns on which the plastic nubbins on the top of the climbing aids are broken. It seems like one could complete a DIY fix with a few strong washers and the stock nut and bolt, but would welcome other DIY fix options. Thanks.

  21. Lou Dawson 2 November 29th, 2016 8:02 am

    Hi Jeff, you don’t need the nubbins unless you like the height they give you, though removing them will create a small wear point on the sole of your boot if you do a lot of miles using the heel lift. And yes, just put a bolt, nut and washers in there if you need the height, though again, watch for boot sole wear. If you want to match height of nubbins or exceed a bit just get a nylon spacer at the hardware store. Lou

  22. Spider Savage December 26th, 2016 11:21 am

    This article helped. My biggest trouble was working around the breke on the rear binding to get the screws in without decent tools. I succeeded by moving the binding all the way back, then putting the front screws in first, then move the binding forward and put the back screws in, then moving the binding all the way back again to tighten the rear screws all the way. Other notes. I made my own template. Used Barge Cement instead of epoxy in case I ever want to take them off.
    (Dynafit Radical ST2 bindings)

  23. Jasper January 8th, 2017 7:10 pm

    I am trying to mount some Plum Race 150 bindings. I am having a hard time finding a good template for the heel. Does wildsnow have one? Does anybody have one? What software has Lou used to make the wildsnow library of templates?

  24. Dan January 8th, 2017 9:50 pm

    @ Jasper – here’s the dimensions (found on

    Plum Race 135/145/150 Toe = 30 x 26.5 Heel = 20.5 x 26

    You can definitely hand draw a template. Just make a straight line on a piece of paper and measure the dimensions off it. Measure many times to make sure it is accurate, then check it with the binding itself.

    I’ve done the same for my Plum 170 heels and also a Hagan adjustment plate – is super accurate as long as you are!

  25. José Luis February 3rd, 2017 12:18 pm

    Hello; and thank you for the future request.
    I want mount Atomic Backland Tour Bindings at mi Atomic UL78 ski; but I don´t have any template about this binding.
    Do yo Know the dimension of the holes and the dimension of the drill bit? 3.5 or 4.1?

  26. Lou 2 February 3rd, 2017 2:39 pm
  27. José luis February 3rd, 2017 4:54 pm

    Thanks a lots Lou; I think that can I help me a lot.
    But do you know de diameter need of the drill bit?

  28. Lou 2 February 4th, 2017 2:25 am

    If the ski mount area has metal layer use the 4.1. My recollection is there is metal, but I am not certain, you can drill one hole with a smaller bit first to check composition of ski. Lou

  29. José Luis March 8th, 2017 2:40 am

    Thanks for all Lou; it looks and works perfect with the mounting tips you told me.

  30. Andy April 5th, 2017 5:03 pm

    You should clarify that the toepiece should be fully locked on to the boot when mounting the new 2.0 bindings. This way it mounts the boot in the center instead of rotated some amount as it is Possible with the new style binding.

  31. Lou Dawson 2 April 5th, 2017 5:40 pm

    Good point Andy, thanks!

  32. Nick September 21st, 2017 2:32 pm

    Is the boot center on the tlt6 marked on the sole? I see two small hash marks and of course there is the snow leopard… one of these?

  33. Lou Dawson 2 September 21st, 2017 2:58 pm

    It’s usually a small bar shaped jingus molded into the sole. Just get out your ruler, boot center is halfway between toe and heel. Lou

  34. Nick September 25th, 2017 11:37 pm

    What do I do if the screw has stripped the dynafit binding and I can get the screw out of the binding (but removed it from the ski)?

  35. Lou 2 September 26th, 2017 7:32 am

    Hi Nick, I’m not understanding the question. Please restate. Lou

  36. Lou Dawson 2 September 26th, 2017 9:51 am

    I just republished this, did quite a bit of editing and re-writing. If you guys see any typos or stupid mistakes, please let me know. It’s an ongoing “evergreen” post that helps a lot of people, so worth the work. I’ll update the opening photo! Lou

  37. swissiphic September 26th, 2017 12:56 pm

    Haven’t read the latest edit of this post but, just sayin’ as a ‘just sayin’ comment: I’ve had great success with this system. I frequently acquire new/old skis, change boots often and am continually remounting bindings to find better sweet spots on skis. **note** I’ve got an array of Dynafit tlt tourlite tech, vertical st and tristep bindings, so, basic hole pattens are all the same. I rely on fore/aft adjustability of heelpiece to accommodate the small variances in BSL of the many boots i’ve changed over the years. YRMV

    1. Install both the toe and heel templates ‘perfectly’ on the ski top sheet. confirm perfection. 2. Overlay with 1 or 2mm thick clear plastic template sheet from craft store and secure with tape on ski topsheet, ensure adequate front/rear binding hole area overhang 3. mark boot center on the plastic template….mark ski center lines on front leading edge of plastic and rear trailing edge of plastic 4. carefully centerpunch holes through plastic template material aligned with hole centers of paper template markings beneath 5. highlight centerpunched holes in plastic with felt highlighter 6. draw a forward direction arrow in space between toe and heel marks 7. cut away excess lateral plastic

    for successive binding mounts: 1. find and mark ski center on ski topsheet 2. align plastic template on ski; matching ski center marks and boot center on preferred mount point on ski…make sure the damn thing is pointed forward 😉 3. secure plastic template to topsheet using tape on leading and trailing edge of template. 4. center punch marks into ski topsheet of toe/heel scew locations using the existing holes in template. 5. remove template and carefully drill ski with appropriate bit. 6. use the Lou system for mounting toe/heel pieces

    This makes tech binding mounting fun fun fun!

    regards; Swissiphic

  38. Matus September 26th, 2017 1:08 pm

    Do not drink any alcohol before and during mounting. Use quality tools. Take your time.

  39. Lou Dawson 2 September 26th, 2017 2:56 pm

    Swiss, good idea to make a permanent template for repeated mounts of the same binding hole pattern. Perhaps that’s a blog post.

  40. XXX_er September 26th, 2017 2:58 pm

    I agree Matus I only drink coffee to mount AT or alpine

    but otoh you can drink beer for telemark

    and the mount will usually turn out better!

  41. swissiphic September 27th, 2017 10:38 am

    hmmm, regarding the plastic template idea….I have erred in the stated mm thickness of the plastic … not very swissiphic of me. 😉

    I just measured my template at 0.5mm….it’s flexy and lies nice and flat on the ski topsheet. Seems to work pretty good and lasted a long time. sorry about the mistake.

  42. XXX_er September 27th, 2017 4:38 pm

    I usually mount freehand so for me its mostly about where the binding & boot center are gona go cuz the screw holes are just dimensions that make sense (so many mm apart) but i did make a template for an alpine binding out of the plastic lid of a kirkland pizza box.

  43. Pablo September 28th, 2017 5:30 am

    Go to piss!
    It’s not a joke.
    When you’re pissing, you get nervous and want to finish things fast …
    And this is a source of many errors due to lack of attention in the assembly process.

  44. Lou Dawson 2 September 28th, 2017 8:01 am

    Xer, it’s actually pretty easy to just use the binding as the template, I’ve done it on occasion, mark holes by setting the binding parts on the ski, and drill drill drill. In this case, left/right centering of the binding still is best done by drawing the longitudinal center line on the ski before anything else. Even than, the binding toe and heel will not end up perfectly aligned with the center axis line, as they’re too short to get a good visual reference, hence the paper template being much better.

    I’d do a how-to on this, but it’s so easy to just print out a template (or make one) I’ve never felt it was worth the time to produce the how-to and keep it updated. On the other hand, perhaps I should…

  45. SteveR September 28th, 2017 10:59 am

    I hand draw my own templates using paper with a 2mm grid marked on it. The paper is the same stuff that children in schools use for drawing graphs on. SkiMo have a useful list of all the template dimensions on their website…

  46. XXX_er September 28th, 2017 2:47 pm

    its simple layout, i can easily find longitudinal ski center in relation to the ski edges for mounting toe & heel with a t-square, which leaves the bigger question of how far are they mounted from each other and in relation to ski center fore/aft

    the point of mount heel dead center, mount toe by one screw only , lock boot down then drill the rest is to let the toe find its happy place, if the boot is locked into the binding when you drill the rest of the toe screws the toe/heel are lined up

    but is it straight on the ski & parallel to the ski edges, hopefully you were accurate when you measured out ski center ?

    but then you got the same predicament taping a piece of paper to the ski, hope that got taped on straight as well and how did you find that center any how ?

    So if i had to do it often a jig would be nice (they also have been known to shift ) but I can make do once a year

  47. Lou Dawson 2 September 28th, 2017 4:41 pm

    Xer, your method sounds good.

    Mechanical jig is faster than doing it by “hand”, but they do shift, and even the angle of the drill can throw the hole off easily a millimeter or so.

    The folded paper method of finding longitudinal center is super accurate and fast. It’s actually more accurate then one probably needs to be, but eliminates compound error.

  48. XXX_er September 28th, 2017 5:29 pm

    I’ve used it ^^ but I would rather just measure in from both sides of the ski edge with a T-square & split the difference, mark it on masking tape, center punch with a drywall screw, I personaly find that paper stuff … flimsy

  49. Cris Shaw January 1st, 2018 2:01 pm

    I followed your instructions for mounting my TLT speed turn bindings and all is good, the bindings came with no mounting instructions and there are leftover parts which I’m not sure what they do or where they go, can you help?

  50. Lou Dawson 2 January 1st, 2018 2:23 pm

    Sure Cris, would be glad to help. “Leftover parts” is always a bit of a chuckle for any DIYer, eh? Lou

  51. Jory March 4th, 2018 7:05 pm

    Hi Lou, I just picked up a used pair of the older Manaslu skis with vertical FTs. These have the predrilled insert system which makes my issue even more puzzling. I clicked in my boots (TLT 6 mountain cr) and noticed right away that the heel wasn’t lining up exactly with the heel pins. I didn’t measure how far off but it was enough that I didn’t like it. I could click the heel in but it took some effort to torque the boot to line up. I tried all combinations of boots/bindings and they all had the same result (oddly both off to the same side).

    I read your step 9 (part 2) of this article and figured this was my solution: loosen the toe, realign, and tighten. However, after looking at the toe screws I see they are countersunk heads which means they will self-center into the binding plate when tightening down. I’m not sure how I would be able to adjust the toe piece without it just going back to the original position when the countersunk screws are tightened. Do you have any thoughts or suggestions?

    I have another pair of skis I bought used with vertical STs and my boots line up perfectly, so I don’t think it’s my boots causing the misalignment on these FTs. I did measure from each FT toe pin to a center reference point and there was a slight difference so I do think it’s indeed the toe piece bring slightly rotated.

  52. Lou 2 March 5th, 2018 7:38 am

    Is there some reason I feel haunted by this? (smile). If you can take the screws out of a toe unit without getting a spinner insert, then rough up the underside of the binding plates as well as the ski top surface, clean with rubbing alcohol, then re-install using epoxy both in the insert holes as well as between binding plate and ski top surface. While you install, just as with other mounts, while gradually tightening screws, place a boot in the binding to, lock the binding and push the heel of the boot to the side, what happens is this forces the screws to go in at a slight angle, as well as taking advantage of any slack in the binding/screw interface. Usually you can get enough change in alignment with this method. If not, you have to go to more extreme methods such as egging out the screw holes. Essentially, the Dynafit ski inserts idea was good, but it was never implemented in a way that was effective, which is of course why they stopped doing it. Sorry to hear you got involved in it, not easy.

    If you get a spinner insert, or strip a screw going back in, all bets are off and PHD level help is required.


  53. Jory March 5th, 2018 8:49 am

    Thanks for the quick response. When I got the skis the toe was mounted in the inner position and the heel was mounted in the outer position; I’m guessing someone just needed a little extra length so they moved the heel and left the toe. I need both at the inside position so I had to remove the heel. I removed the toe while I was at it. All the holes look good except for one of the forward most toe screws…it still threads in but looks a little iffy, I’ll know more when I try to torque it…

    I’ll consider your suggestion. I’m kind of hesitant about gluing the entire binding down but that may be the only solution. I may try doing it the traditional way before resorting to the epoxy since I haven’t tried it yet (I just finished pulling all the bindings and cleaning up the screws/holes). I’m not familiar with the history of this insert system besides your page I ran across from 2008…is this misalignment issue common or is getting a spinner insert the more common issue?

    Side question: What are your thoughts on using a urethane based adhesive for sealing binding screws (in lieu of wood glue)? Most debates I’ve seen online conclude that the glue is there for waterproofing rather than screw retention, so it seems something like Seam Grip would be a okay choice for sealing the threads. Though with the nylon inserts in the Manaslus I have, there isn’t any exposed wood core so waterproofing may not be much of an issue.

  54. Jory March 6th, 2018 9:33 am

    I haven’t reinstalled yet but another thing I forgot to mention when removing the bindings is that I noticed the holes in the toe plate (plastic base plate that goes under the toe piece) were actually threaded, rather than thru-holes. I’m guessing this is normal but would there be any issues with this being a thru-hole instead? Your comment about “…this forces the screws to go in at a slight angle…” made me think about this. With the screws threaded into the toe plate there is less compliance in the screws and your pretty much limited to the movement in the toe piece alone to make any adjustment. With a thru-hole I feel like you can also get some movement in the toe plate for more adjustment. Thoughts? I don’t want to blow out the toe plate holes if them being threaded is critical.

  55. See March 6th, 2018 7:48 pm

    I don’t know why they chose to make the holes in the base plates so tight, but the plastic will allow a fair amount of torquing around to get things lined up, in my experience.

  56. Jory March 6th, 2018 11:05 pm

    Got to play around with the bindings tonight.

    1) I took another look at my current skis with the Vertical STs, checking how well the heels line up with the boot. I found one to be pretty dead on, and another to be off by about 2mm max…enough where the pins contact the edge of the boot rubber before falling into the groove. I never noticed it before and haven’t had any problems. I also discovered there is a very slight difference in my two boots, about 1mm offset at the heel.

    2) I reinstalled the FTs on the Manaslu just to see what kind of correction I could get by torquing the toe and tightening the screws. With the screws slightly loose I essentially grabbed the toe pins by hand and rotated as hard as I could while tightening the screws little by little. I was able to get the worst case alignment to around 2-2.5mm. I could probably do a little better if I use something else to torque the toe piece (using the boot is tough because its hard to reach the screws). Anyways, the pins contact the edge of the rubber like my STs, but have no problem falling into the groove. Here is a pic of the worst case:

    I guess my next question is: how much misalignment is acceptable? I think I am okay with what i have. There is some compliance in the toe piece and heel (with not much force needed) which allows for the pins to align fairly easily and click in. Just knowing that my boots vary by about 1mm, it seems like if I’m within 2mm it should be okay. Thoughts?

  57. Lou Dawson 2 March 7th, 2018 6:44 am

    Jory, as with anything mechanical there is indeed a tolerance for how far the boot heel can be out of line with binding heel pins. I’ve never heard anything “official” but a millimeter is clearly ok, while any more than that begins to pre-load the rotational function of the heel tower in one direction or another, and/or prevents binding step-in at the heel. We’ve used setups that are off by around 2 mm but I’ve never felt good about it. At the least, use a sharp knife and widen the sole rubber lips so that the binding pins are more easily led into the boot heel tech fitting.

    As for the procedure of aligning the binding, you can use the boot as a lever, like I think I explained above. To do so you just gradually tighten the screws while placing the boot in and out of the binding, when boot is in binding lock the toe and really yard on it, to shift the screws. Problem is, with the inserts, you’re only allowed a few in-out cycles with the screws, after that they’ll strip and you’re stuck with a real problem.

    It’s not unusual for boots to be slightly different and contribute to misalignment, but it’s also surprising how good most are. It’s actually possible to heat and bend a boot a millimeter or two, I’ve done this to correct misalignment caused by punching while boot fitting. Your boots are not off enough to require that tricky procedure, but I thought I’d mention.

    Lastly, did you try re-mounting the heel unit on the whacked binding? You might be able to get a millimeter that way.


  58. Lou Dawson 2 March 7th, 2018 6:56 am

    Regarding glue for binding screws, we’ve covered that subject quite a bit over the years. Epoxy is quite common for setups that are clearly fairly permanent and the user wants ultimate reliability. The specialized semi flexible epoxies are probably best, but since I mount so many skis I tend to use cheaper “regular” 30 minute epoxy I get in bottles off Amazon. I like epoxy because the bond can be easily reversed by heating the screws. I also use waterproof Tightbond wood glue, for things such as mounting our demo bindings. You can get “ski binding glue” but it’s just repackaged wood glue. I don’t like other glues as some don’t respond to heat, for example, while other foam and bubble and make a mess. No need to reinvent the wheel on this.

    As for the best glue for Dynafit ski inserts, that’s unknown. The inserts are high density plastic, probably something like HDPE or Delrin, stuff that most glues don’t bond to. So any glue is acting more as a sealer and perhaps adding a slight mechanical bond by filling voids. I always just used my usual epoxy, and was careful to heat during screw removal though I’d occasionally get a spinner anyway.

    For example, a friend of mine brought his antique Manaslus here just a few months ago, to play around with a binding upgrade. I told him the first step was to see if I could get the bindings off the skis without a problem. Sure enough, got a spinner, had to bore out the insert and put in a Quiver Killer. We nixed the project and he’s planning on starting fresh with new skis.

    The time this all took was annoying, I’d prefer to not ever see Manaslus with inserts ever again in my life, I’ve got better things to use my allotted minutes on.


  59. Jory March 7th, 2018 9:53 am

    Lou, I appreciate you taking the time to respond.

    I’ll give your boot lever method another try, but it seemed like I needed constant pressure on the toe piece while tightening the screws to keep the toe piece from settling back in its original position. I do think if the holes in the baseplates weren’t so tight (i.e threaded), it would make shifting the toe piece easier. But I think I can manage without making those thru holes.

    It did cross my mind that I may be able to make up for a little bit of the misalignment by remounting the heel piece like you say. I’ll check that out.

    Thanks for the info on the glues. I agree that with the Manaslu inserts the glue will most likely act as a sealer. Maybe some mechanical strength depending on the adhesive. I found one of your old articles talking about the Manaslu inserts and Dynafit claims the inserts are nylon. There are certainly epoxies out there made for nylon, but I don’t need to go down that road. I’ll make do with the wood glue or regular epoxy I have.

    I guess I’ll count myself lucky with these Manaslus. They’re in excellent shape and don’t look to have many days on them. Barring the one front toe screw that looks a little iffy, all the other holes look/feel great. I’m learning some good lessons at least!

    Thanks again!

  60. Jory March 7th, 2018 10:06 am

    Lou, was just reading through the comments on the Manaslu insert page ( and ran across a comment you made,

    “All, please note that one of the mounting problems with ST and FT Dynafit bindings is that the tight screw holes in the toe plate can cause you to exert more force than necessary while inserting the screws in the bindings. We always drill these out so the screw fits snugly through the hole but doesn’t try to thread. I highly advise all home mounters to do this, it really helps.”

    Glad to hear you have the same thoughts on this as me. It doesn’t make any sense at all to have the baseplate holes threaded. I’m going to drill mine out.

  61. See March 7th, 2018 8:09 pm

    Bottom line (in my opinion) is that the inserts were not good. The concept makes some sense, but the implementation was lacking.

  62. See March 7th, 2018 8:21 pm

    (As has been said at least a few times already.)

  63. Jory March 9th, 2018 11:09 am

    Got the bindings mounted last night. I drilled out the holes in the baseplate just enough for the screw to pass through (.225″ hole diameter). This made a big difference and I was easily able to get the toe adjusted so the heels are pretty much dead on (with the variation being from the boots themselves). Perhaps the screws were threaded into the baseplate slightly off and that was enough to cause the misalignment. Thanks for all the help!

  64. Lou Dawson 2 March 9th, 2018 11:43 am

    Excellent Jory, thanks for letting us know the results!

  65. Kristian March 9th, 2018 3:42 pm

    More amateur home mount tribulations and solution:

    Several weeks ago, I plowed through mounting some bindings while smugly feeling good about my skills while also watching TV. (I do not own any mounting jigs.)

    The results were predictable. On the last heel binding, I apparently switched to relying on the ski’s graphics for centering. The graphics were centered on the other ski, but not this one. Off by several millimeters to the left.

    Filled the holes with JB Weld, waited 48 hours and hand drilled. But again, two of the holes had wandered even though I carefully prepunched. So JB Weld again, leveled carefully with a sharp chisel, mounted heel binding with the two good holes (or duct tape), colored inside holes with small black marker, and then found exact center by using a .234mm = 15/64″ drill bit hand twisted into the binding’s screw holes. Only the very tip of this drill bit penetrated the center of the black marked targets. Now removed temporarily mounted heel binding.

    And most importantly, used the correct special ski drill bit in a drill press with a drill press vise to slowly and precisely drill the holes with accuracy and no wandering.

  66. Lou Dawson 2 March 9th, 2018 6:09 pm

    Kristian, what’s with using the ski graphics for centering!?. So easy to make a center line with the folding paper method — but, yeah, I’d admit, I’ve gotten lazy (smile). Lou

  67. See March 9th, 2018 9:12 pm

    As I recall, the base plates aren’t threaded until the screws are installed. Maybe the holes are so tight because small base plate holes make for a more solid mount when everything lines up perfectly– no twisting for alignment required.

  68. swissiphic March 9th, 2018 11:33 pm

    Kristian: tech tip: when prepunching binding screw holes for the bit, use a sledgehammer. No bit wandering. 😉

  69. enjin March 30th, 2018 8:55 pm

    There is a broken link in a post by Tim December 5th, 2017 10:28 am above for an alternative template for dynafit st rotation / radical 2.0. I think this working link is the same template he mentioned:

    The boot center may be off by 5mm
    as he mentions. I haven’t tried it yet.

  70. Lou Dawson 2 March 31st, 2018 9:13 am

    Thanks, I’ll delete that comment and link. Our method of locating boot/binding on ski is simple and best IMHO, but everyone’s mind works differently, some folks might like the more complex template so I’ll let your link stand since it works.


  71. Mark Donohoe April 19th, 2018 1:18 pm

    Hard to find a place to ask a question, that’s the downside to using a blog like this. Anywho, a couple of days ago while out I had to cross a creek. Managed to drop my skis into the creek twice (two different runs)! Bindings were fully submerged for a min. or so. Do I need to break the bindings down and re-lube and inspect or? Any advice is appreciated.

  72. Jory April 19th, 2018 3:12 pm

    Mark, personally I wouldn’t worry about it. As long as you let them drain and dry out you wouldn’t even know they were in a creek. Clean water is not much of a concern…dirty/muddy water would be a different story. Clean water will dry out and, assuming everything is lubed alright, not be an issue. It’s when you get dirt and other contaminates inside the mechanism where you should start to think about cleaning/relubing. I’m sure someone else will have some input on this…

  73. See April 19th, 2018 4:16 pm

    Not really an answer to Mark’s question, but I did some garage release testing a while back and I was surprised by how different the measurements were for an old pair of tech toes. Blowing out the mechanism with compressed air and lubricating also had a big effect on the (very crude) release measurements. Ever since I’ve been more careful about cleaning my boots before clicking in after walking in dirt.

  74. Mark Donohoe April 21st, 2018 11:10 pm

    Thanks guys. Ya, dirt (especially spring dirt) can be the worst. I always try to clean my inserts and heel before clipping in. I use a voile strap and the buckle is great for both. I just carry it in my pocket.

  75. Leo May 19th, 2018 11:41 am

    It’s been a good 8 years since I last followed these instructions. This time around a did a small variation: created a separate full template that I could overlay on the ski. It worked great and now if I want to mount the same boot/bindings on another ski I have the template done and just have to mark the ski’s center and boot lines.

    Did run into one interesting problem though: dropped my glue (a fairly runny silicone adhesive stuff) into the screw holes and it just disappeared. I went through with the mounting procedure and got everything lined up. But worried about the glue, I backed one screw out and it was totally dry. I looked in the hole and saw an open cavity that was swallowing the glue! Seems it’s the “tourlite woodcore” design in my ski (longitudinal voids in the ski to save weight).

    To work around this I did one screw at a time (to avoid losing my calibration) and dropped glue around the edges of the binding hole until it formed a bubble, then screwed back in. A little bit of glue squished out around the screw head, which made me confident I got a decent seal. I’m sure this would be a bad idea with epoxy but with the adhesive I’m using I think it’ll be OK should the screws/bindings ever need removal. The glue hasn’t cured yet so if anyone knows this is a bad idea, let me know soon 😀

  76. See May 19th, 2018 7:13 pm

    Just a thought re. mounting skis with large voids in the core— I’ve done a couple like that and I let the epoxy cure bases up. I don’t know if it makes any difference, but I haven’t pulled the screws out yet and I’ve skied them a fair bit.

  77. Jon Goodman January 11th, 2019 9:48 am

    I just mounted Radical ST’s with brakes (non removable). It seems it is necessary to move the heel tower with the adjustment in order to access all of the screw mounting holes. In the mid position the arch of the brake covers the holes. (It took me a while to figure that one out). I hope it is of some help to future DIY ers. Otherwise thank you Lou for the great instructions! Of particular note is finding ski center with the paper strip! A real gem of a tip!!!!!

  78. Lou Dawson 2 January 12th, 2019 12:32 pm

    Joh, yeah, quite a few bindings require moving the heel unit to access the screw heads… Lou

  79. Richard January 21st, 2019 1:42 am

    Hi, I currently have Dynafit Beast bindings fitted to my skis. I find these too heavy and lack a flat tour mode. I want to fit some new Dynafit Radical rotation bindings. Is the hole pattern a straight swap? Looks the same from images. Don’t want to have to drill new holes. Thanks for the

  80. Geewilligers January 21st, 2019 1:56 am

    Hi Richard,

    Do you have the beast 16 or 14?

  81. Richard January 21st, 2019 11:37 am

    Hi, thanks for getting back to me. I have the 14.

  82. Lou Dawson 2 January 21st, 2019 1:28 pm

    Well, the toe is definitely a match, as the Beast 14 toe is the same as Radical 2., the heel is the question. What I would suggest is don’t worry about it. If the heel holes don’t match, you can change fore/aft location of the heel unit a few mm to avoid overlapping holes. Lou

  83. Richard January 22nd, 2019 2:25 pm

    Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated.

  84. Sedgesprite January 25th, 2019 5:53 pm

    Thoughts on boots with Beast heel reinforcers and the new TLT Speeds. I would like to go between the heavy side country set up and a lighter touring rig. My own bench testing looks ok with the heel plates on. I felt comfortable with the heel plates and the verticals.

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