Summits and Smugglers–Sulzfluh 2014
Here we are in the dog days of summer. I think back on our European travels last winter, and how special it was to ski tour to the Berghaus Sulzfluh and climb the peak. To break up our stream of summer gear reviews, I thought it might be fun to post a late night trip report.
Clouds swirl around us like fluffy masses of cotton candy.
Europe appeals to us with its deep mountain culture and tantalizing history of daring backcountry skiers. In the 1800’s poor mountaineers survived by smuggling coffee, tobacco, wine, corn, honey and loden over the Austrian/Swiss border along treacherous alpine routes, sometimes stopping by Berghaus Sulzfluh for rest and food. They would have had an easy time slipping through the cloudy grayness that greeted us on the morning of our climb.
In 2010 Lou climbed Sulzfluh in bluebird weather. This time we’d tour under overcast skies. But sometimes I like that. Misty mountains are mysterious and as we skied I could easily imagine the mountaineers of old skiing quietly past with their packs full of contraband.
Our trip to Sulzfluh was nicely organized, thanks to it being Dynafit’s annual press event. Three guides were available for various levels of adventure: freeride slayers, beginners and experienced-but-not-Hoji-extreme-skiers. We joined the not-Hoji group (but we do love Hoji).
Franz the guide gives the safety talk before we leave. I know Lou is thinking 'Whatever happened to the safe 3-person group, and do any of these guys have more than a cell phone in their backpacks?'
An ancient alpine proverb, 'He who knows and knows what he knows, follow him, especially if he reads the sign.'
Spreading out through unstable sections, or so it was said, anyway.
Skis off for a short section of rock scrambling. Ice covered rock added some excitement.
Skis on again.
Franz bergheils each skier at the ice encrusted summit cross. Cold and windy, but always exhilarating to reach a new summit.
Clouds briefly lift for a glimpse of stunning vistas.
One short length of chain adds a bit of help on the rocky section of the descent. Slipping on slick ice raced our pulse like interval training.
New Dynafit test skis 'the Denali' surf easily through the choppy conditions.
At the end of the trail, a few steps up to a cold Radler. Built in 1875, the restaurant of Berghaus Sulzfluh has been carefully restored to maintain its original character. After a few Radlers, the ghost of Schmuggi Luggi joined our table.
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