Frankenbooting the TLT6-P

Post by blogger | March 17, 2014      

Update: 03/17/2014
La Sportiva has their Pegasus buckles available with individual SKUs if you want to pick some up to mod your TLT6. The buckle I used was the lower one at the toe of the Spectre boot. It’s worked well for more than 50 days of touring, only issue is the length adjustment gradually loosens. But it takes only seconds to re-adjust using the super functional “bicycle brake adjuster.” More, I’ve found that the B&D UCP Ultimate Cuff Rivets are working beautifully. My install has not loosened up. For months now I’ve been enjoying the friction-free and nearly zero play cuff configuration on my TLT6 boots.

Dynafit TLT6-P is the finest boot Dynafit has ever done — and easily the best boot on the market for ski touring that involves lots of human powered vertical. But nothing is perfect and I have a workshop.

In a previous mod I replaced the cuff rivets with removable fasteners.

In a previous mod I replaced the cuff rivets with removable fasteners. Easier to work with the cuff off the boot, but not essential.

Main order of business is the pesky side buckle. Solution is some sort of swap to a buckle that rides on top of the boot tongue.

Main order of business is the pesky side buckle. TLT6 buckle configuration is improved from TLT5, but it still sticks out too much and may open accidentally while post-holing crusty snow or while bush whacking. Since this is the only buckle holding you in the boot while you're in touring mode, it's quite annoying when it opens -- especially if you're in an awkward situation such as steep snow climbing or rappelling. Solution: swap to a buckle that rides on top of the boot tongue, like Scott Cosmos or Sportiva Spectre

I figured out a few options for the buckle swap mod, and chose one:

1. Modify the OEM buckle system. I tried this. Too fiddly and I didn’t like the bulky buckle riding on top of the tongue.

2. Use buckles from Scott Cosmos. Nice buckles and they’d work, but ladder is riveted on without an easy way of removing and re-attaching.

3. La Sportiva Spectre. Lightweight “Pegasus” buckles with a beautiful low profile. On and off with threaded fasteners, fit perfectly like they were made for the job. Available from La Sportiva as a spare part.

La Sportiva 'Pegasus' buckle.

La Sportiva 'Pegasus' buckle. This is the lower (front) buckle from a La Sportiva Spectre boot. It is perfect for this modification. Length is correct, and both ends attach with threaded fasteners.

Install takes all of about 10 minutes per boot.

Install takes all of about 10 minutes per boot. Main challenge is removing the OEM buckle. This requires rotary grinding the head of a rivet inside the boot. To install the Pegasus buckle anchor, you have to enlarge the OEM hole a bit and push in a T-nut. You leave the OEM buckle strap on the boot, and attach the Sportiva buckle with the small square T-nut that comes stock. Take care with matching tools to fasteners. On this pair of TLT6 the buckle ladder was attached with a star drive screw that I first thought was a hex and thus almost stripped out the head socket. Remember Loctite for all fasteners.

Another view, showing the La Sportiva buckle anchor and how nicely the buckle rides on top of the boot tongue.

Another view, showing the La Sportiva buckle anchor and how nicely the Pegasus buckle rides on top of the boot tongue.

Bonus mod. This is how I do a 'lean lock blocker' so the boots can remain loosely buckled while touring.

Bonus mod. This is how I do a 'lean lock blocker' so the boots can remain loosely buckled while touring. The small chunk of vinyl tubing is flipped to the outside of the buckle when it's time for downhill mode.

I’m probably going to get asked “Lou, how essential is the buckle mod?” If you don’t climb much without skis, I’d say it’s probably not necessary (though fun!). But if you do a lot of ski alpinism that involves scrambling and snow climbing without skis, or if your skiing involves bashing through a lot of rough vegetation, you’ll find this mod to be valuable.


Scott Cosmos buckle on TLT5 Mountain

Scott Cosmos buckle on TLT5 Mountain. This would work for TLT5-P as well.

TLT5 Mountain, inside side of boot with modified buckle ladder installed.

TLT5 Mountain, inside side of boot with modified (shortened) buckle ladder installed. I'm not sure what boot this buckle ladder came from, but it has a tab on the end with the fastener hole. Most ladders have blind rivet that's difficult to deal with. I'd think that with access to a variety of dumpster boots you could find a couple of ladders that were kind of like this one.


Please Enjoy A Few Suggested WildSnow Posts


121 Responses to “Frankenbooting the TLT6-P”

  1. Andrew McLean October 29th, 2013 9:12 am

    Doesn’t that also modify your manufacturer’s warranty and potential resale value?

  2. Lou Dawson October 29th, 2013 9:16 am

    Yes, everything is heavily modified.

  3. Caleb from MT October 29th, 2013 9:38 am

    Perfect mod Lou. I am without a doubt going to do this to my tlt 5 mntns. I have already moved the buckle to make for better ankle and heel hold so the rivet that you say needs grinding off is already been replaced by a t nut. That being said is there anything else you can think of that may be different on the tlt 5 vs 6? Buckle size be the same? Also any idea when la sportiva will have the spare part on hand? Thanks much!

  4. Lou Dawson October 29th, 2013 9:52 am

    Caleb, I’m pretty sure this mod will be just as easy on TLT 5 (Mountain or Performance). I’ve actually got all those boots in the shop, I’ll go look at them to be sure.

  5. TimZ October 29th, 2013 9:59 am

    Would this also work on the TLT5 do you think? Or is the system changed too much to work. Maybe the larger of the lower Spectre buckles?

  6. TimZ October 29th, 2013 10:01 am

    Whoops, I didn’t notice that Caleb had already asked. It would be fantastic if you were to take a look! Thanks

  7. Joe Risi October 29th, 2013 10:53 am

    I knew I saw some gears turning in your head when you first spotted the Spectre’s buckles!

    Looks sweet.
    Perfect and extra bomber!

  8. Lou Dawson October 29th, 2013 11:09 am

    Tim and Caleb, I just looked at TLT5 P and Mountain. The plastic buckle strap on the inside side of the boot is short and doesn’t have the nice pr-molded T-nut socket and hole that the TLT6 has. Thus, doing this mod on TLT5 requires a longer buckle that would be mounted directly to the shell. AND, yes, Spectre instep buckle (third buckle) is longer. How about I run out to the shop and see if it’s an easy swap? If so, I’ll add a photo to the blog post above. Hold on.

  9. Lou Dawson October 29th, 2013 11:37 am

    Wellll, Spectre buckle isn’t long enough for TLT5, and it would be difficult to mount on the OEM strap anyhow. Two solutions:

    1. Use Spectre buckle anyhow. Remove OEM strap and install a strap from another boot.

    2. Use Scott Cosmos buckle with custom ladder mounted to outside of boot.

    I just did #2, will add a photo or two to blog post.

    BTW, if you get ANY boot with removable fasteners, I’d advise either you or your shop tech to be sure they all feel locked. While removing the Sportiva buckle I found one of the fasteners was loose and not Loctited.

    Oh, and the Sportiva buckle is going right back on! They’re nice boots and I plan on skiing them a bunch!


  10. Lou Dawson October 29th, 2013 11:57 am

    New photos up, see bottom of post. Lou

  11. Caleb from MT October 29th, 2013 12:21 pm

    Thanks Lou!

  12. Dane October 29th, 2013 12:32 pm

    Damn!..Sweet and more importantly effective answer to that buckle. Nice work Lou.

  13. Dane October 29th, 2013 12:40 pm

    Seems sorta related to this thread. I was actually looking for resole info on the Dynafit TLTs. EVO/ DyNA boots this morning. Which is why I am here. And cant’t seem to find anyone that has done it. Called Dynafit. No replacement soles available. Recorder at Rocky Mountain Resoles in CO. Steve at Komitos does them. Any one used his service for a TLT or any Dynafit. Dave Page locally was not encouraging. TIA.

  14. Colin Lantz October 29th, 2013 3:17 pm

    Hi Lou, Damn, love seeing La Sportiva Spectre parts on Dynafit boots. Could have a lot of fun here though. Rhetorical expressions having to do with lipstick and pigs come to mind — but I’ll be civil and stick to the subject matter at hand (-;

    Just wanted you and your readers to know that after reading your post we here at La Sportiva NA immediately did a spot check on our inventory to check the threaded fasteners for thread locker application (Loctite). We checked one of each size and each fastener had blue thread locker when we pulled it. As we couldn’t find any other fasteners without thread locker we have to say that it appears that yours was an isolated incident. Regardless, we’ve alerted the production manager in Italy to the incident and advised to double check all production for tread locker application.

  15. Lou Dawson October 29th, 2013 4:42 pm

    You guys are sure on the case! Everyone I know is super psyched you guys had the guts to provide removable fasteners, but yeah, they need to be tight and thread locked! I think what I saw was just an isolated incident. My suggestion would be for dealers to take 40 seconds with a screw driver and just check all fasteners for tightness. Small threaded fasteners do funny things, they have gremlins (grin).

    And, those are nice buckles you guys came up with. I’m trusting they’ll hold up in real use… lots of tested over the last 18 months?


  16. Colin Lantz October 29th, 2013 5:04 pm

    Absolutely Lou. We’ve haven’t been able to find any problems with the buckles during the testing phase. We’ve run millions of cycles on the flex machines and accumulated hundreds of hours testing in the field. I’d say the only thing to look out for with the Pegasus Buckles is to treat the cables like you would the cables on your wired nut climbing protection pieces. Climbers will be familiar with the reference — just pointing out that the cables are bomber and will last a lifetime if treated properly, but just like the cables on a swaged climbing protection nuts, e.g. Stoppers, Wall Nuts, Rocks, they can be bent or twisted aggressively and damaged. It takes a lot to screw up a cable on a Stopper but you can do it. Same applies to the cables on these buckle sets.

  17. Scott Newman October 29th, 2013 5:17 pm

    I would caution that when moving a buckle to the instep of a boot, you run the risk of causing fit/comfort issues. Cranking a buckle can deform the shell at the lever (in this case the instep). Oftentimes, this is an area where there isn’t a lot of extra room in a ski boot. In the case where the wearer has a high instep, this can be very uncomfortable and even painful. that said, inadvertently opened buckles are (in the least) an annoyance and can be downright dangerous.

  18. Lou Dawson October 29th, 2013 6:43 pm

    Scott, so true. But at least two high-end AT boots already have buckles in that location, Cosmos and Spectre, so perhaps the modern buckles cause less localized pressure, exerting their “cinch” evenly along the whole length of the buckle/anchor assembly. Nonetheless, this is a very critical part of the foot and a little pressure in the wrong place can lead to all sorts of trouble. Lou

  19. lederhosen 42 October 29th, 2013 6:52 pm

    RE: Bonus Mod

    In my experience with the Dynafit Mercury boots, leaving the upper cuff buckle fully open while utilizing the power strap for the needs of closed cuff but free(er) rotation does the job. With this employment, more ‘micro adjustment’ is possible as well. Great for honing in on the ‘just right’ setting for varying angles of boot packing, for example.

    Lately, I have also been experimenting with using the boot for uphill ski touring and hiking and downhill skiing placing the instep and cuff buckle wires and powerstrap UNDER the white permanently attached ‘half tongue’. For downhills, this adds a third forward flex option (softer) and allows for a slightly more articulate ankle flexon for increased old school snow feel. (Yup, probably just a little too much time on my hands…or feet. lol.) Nice for soft, consistent, forgiving powder. Not so nice for breakable crust.

    For uphill bootpacking and hiking, I’ve noted increased ankle mobility and range of motion for more comfort, dexterity and ‘french techniquing’ in firmer snow. Downhill hiking revealed a new crease point at the fold of the ankle so traditional use was employed. Buckles buckled, buckles loose, and various positions of each, I’ve tried it all and have been pleasantly surprised at achieving some really nice boot ‘feel’ for various ski touring/mountaineering endeavors for specific technical demands.

  20. carlo October 30th, 2013 4:09 am

    does the downhill extra tongue still fit?

  21. Lou Dawson October 30th, 2013 8:10 am

    Carlo, excellent question that I should have already answered! Yes, on mine the buckle adjusts enough for the extra tongue. Considering these buckles have two holes for the anchor plus the threaded cable barrel adjustment, they have quite a bit of range. Still, your mileage may vary and you might have to use different anchor points than I did.

    I don’t use the add-on tongues, which is why I didn’t mention…


  22. Lou Dawson October 30th, 2013 8:20 am

    By the way, regarding warranty issue that Andrew brought up. This type of “mod” is no different than swapping parts on a bicycle.

    I’m not sure whether Dynafit sees it that way or not, but no way anyone can sell sports gear this critical and expect people to not modify it in some way. Just the boot fitting process alone is a major mod for some people.

    Any company has lots of discretion in how they honor warranty on products that have been changed by the consumer. What I’m sure Dynafit would do is ascertain if the mod caused the problem the boot was sent in for warranty on, if not, then they’d cover their warranty.

    For example, say you wore out your cuff rivets within the warranty period and were using this buckle mod. I don’t think that would be an issue. But if it was, you could put the original buckles back on before sending your boots in for repair (you might want to do that no matter what, in case they decided to replace your boots instead of repairing them!)

    One tip for modders regarding all this. Save all parts! And if you get really serious, never sell or give away any used boots. Keep them all for part donations and experiments.


  23. Eric October 30th, 2013 9:22 am

    “nothing is perfect and I have a workshop.”

    I’ve been trying to convey this thought to my wife for 20 years! This will now be my standard answer when she asks “Why are doing that?” That’s not trademarked, is it? 🙂

  24. Lou Dawson October 30th, 2013 9:31 am

    Let ‘er fly. Only, I’d offer that you might have to find a better answer than that!

  25. Andrew McLean October 30th, 2013 11:25 am

    “never sell or give away any used boots” Did you type that with a straight face?

  26. Tutuko October 30th, 2013 11:39 am

    Simple and profound, the best mod yet IMO, cheers Lou.

  27. Lou Dawson October 30th, 2013 11:39 am


  28. Sam L. October 30th, 2013 11:47 am

    IANAL, but the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act usually protects consumers from having their warranties denied unfairly. There are lots of parts of the law, but one that is very applicable among bicycle and automobile enthusiasts is limitations on when a manufacturer can deny a warranty.

    Prior to the act, manufacturers would offer big full warranties, but with fine print that says that if you “modified” it at all, it would void the entire warranty. So you’d have a car, put window tint in, then the transmission goes out. Too bad, you “modified” the vehicle.

    Nowawadays, the manufacturer has to show that the modification was related to the failure, as Lou says. If you modify the buckles and drill new holes, and then the shell fails near your holes, then they could reasonably say that your modifications were related to the failure and deny the warranty. But if you drill new holes in the shell and then the tech fitting falls out, they couldn’t deny warranty coverage due to your modifications. Most manufacturers of high-end products are pretty understanding of these situations, and I’ve not seen many cases of them trying to worm out of responsibilities, or make outlandish claims about how a minor modification caused a failure elsewhere in the product.

  29. Lou Dawson October 30th, 2013 12:26 pm

    There you go. Andrew tried to harsh our mod groove, but the collective speaks!

  30. Drew Tabke October 30th, 2013 1:50 pm

    If you open your mod’ed lower buckle and lean aggressively forward in tour mode, does the upper cuff/buckle collide with the lower buckle? I often find that range of motion is inhibited not by the mechanism in the walk mode, but by parts and plastic near the instep interfering with one another.

    The “lean-lock-block” is $, gotta get to work on mine now.

  31. Lou Dawson October 30th, 2013 2:12 pm

    Drew, I’m not seeing any problem with that, though it’s something I’ve seen with other buckle mods. It helps that the cuff just has one buckle and it’s mounted high.

    Regarding the vinyl tube mod. Make the pieces of tubing too long and trim them to fit after installed. Much easier than trying to get them perfect before install.

    More about lock blockers and stuff:


  32. Greg Louie October 30th, 2013 8:05 pm

    Wow, perfect color match too, Lou. Nice work!

  33. stephen October 31st, 2013 5:08 am

    Great info as usual – thanks! 🙂

  34. Eric Steig November 2nd, 2013 9:12 am

    This all raises the question of whether next year Dynafit will finally do this the right way in the first place? I hope you can convince them!

  35. Lou Dawson November 2nd, 2013 12:11 pm

    The guys who do back flips off 75 foot cliffs have the say in boot design, not me (grin). Lou.

  36. Chris November 3rd, 2013 11:57 am

    I can confirm that this mod doesn’t work well with the stock buckle. I drilled out the buckle rivet and reversed the buckle and catch. The buckle is indeed bulky on the top of the boot, and doesn’t quite close properly due to the increased curvature of the new position.

    I think with some additional tinkering the stock buckle could be made to work. For instance, the buckle could possibly be bent to accommodate the greater curvature, or drilling new holes could move the buckle and catch to a more favorable location. But I wasn’t willing to take the risk on brand new boots!

  37. Dane November 3rd, 2013 12:30 pm

    Wow you guys must get Dynafit gear really cheap to start chopping up $1000 boots before you have even skied on them!

    I found the last generation of TLT boots with a single lock tab on the instep buckle to be a signifigant improvement. The first generation had no lower tab to hold that buckle closed. The TLT6 has two tabs, the shell “dam”, and a different profile on that same instep buckle. From what I had seen to date actually out using my TLT6 much of the flapping instep buckle in breakable crust was simply gone. Lou’s adaptation of a La Sportiva buckle is pretty cool and I may do that myself at some point if the newest Dynafit buckle fails to perform. But I haven’t condemned the factory instep buckle as useless just yet. Pricey boots I am not chopping up just yet.

  38. Andreas November 4th, 2013 12:18 am

    How about the lower buckle on the Dynafit ONE? I have the TLT5P and are looking to replace my lower buckle..

  39. Lou Dawson November 4th, 2013 6:30 am

    Dynafit ONE buckle might work… Remember the swap on TLT5 is not as smooth as that of the TLT6, due to 6 having such a nice plastic anchor strap that’s already configured for swapping.

  40. Sqikunst November 4th, 2013 7:51 am

    Looking at this its great. Can you see anyway to attach a Cochise style top bucke/powerstrap in place of the Dynafit Powerstrap to take some of the force of the locking mechanism and top buckle? I can see that the carbon cuff is set quite far back but it it possible?

  41. John Baldwin November 5th, 2013 1:34 pm

    I modified the buckle on my TLT 5 boots last year.

    I have since used them a lot including bootpacking and bushwacking and am very pleased with the mod. I would say its essential. Too bad they haven’t fixed the problem on the TLT6!!

    I used the instep buckles off some Scarpa tele boots boots (same buckle as the F1) and they have worked fine. No problems with the fit when the buckle is done up for skiing – and I have a high arch.

    Aside from the buckle and forward lean settings (that also had to be fixed) this is easily the best touring boot ever made.

  42. TC November 5th, 2013 2:56 pm

    Love the buckle mod ideas. Something I’ll definitely do this winter.

    Although I love the TLTs… to hold the Dynafit-advertising back a little, there are a few other boots out there that are even lighter and ski well.

    How about a skiing review of the Scarpa Alien for touring. It’s the most popular (by far) affordable racing boot and a few friends have been very happy switching from the much heavier TLTs to them for spring tours – they are loving the light and extremely mobile Aliens. Surprisingly good ski performance and no buckle problems…. Of course, they have to make mods to keep the snow out… And my guess they have the same cold feet issues that the TLTs have… Pros and cons as always. But I’m curious about them and I’m sure many others are as well! Are they (im)practical for winter touring? I’m not sure if they are dominating the Euro touring scene the way the Scarpa F1s used to.

    The other direct competitor to the TLTs that I know of are the La Sportiva boots (Sideral and Spitfire). Similar design to the TLTs, similar weight, same buckle issue (I think?). Likely very similar in performance but a better fit for some people? I haven’t heard much about them although I do recall a Wild Snow preview about them a while back.

    Or even the Dynafit PDGs. Why use TLT6s and not just go for the PDGs? What are the pros/cons there?

    Bring on the snow!

  43. Dane November 5th, 2013 3:17 pm

    I can speak directly to a couple of issues. La Sportiva boots won’t easily take/work well with many crampons. Too much sole rocker. But they do ski well. PDG and Evo? Soles seem to last minutes off aything but snow and even hard snow conditions will likely peal the sole off….almost joking but not quite. It is bad. Awesome ski boot though. And not full water tight either. No easily replaceable resole from Dynafit at the moment makes it hard to want a pair. Alien? Great ski/climbing boot…but warm feet and at least water resistant designs are important in a ski boot. How could you miss that one? The Alien is nothing like a chilly TLT when you have wet and cold feet and no way to make it much better by design. Ya gotta use a gaiter and the buy in on that aint cheap…it is just for a gaiter for g’s sake!

  44. Lou Dawson November 5th, 2013 3:22 pm

    TC, all good questions and we’ll continue the quest. But please know that challenges come up. For example, I actually skied one of the boots you mention quite a bit at the beginning of last winter, but couldn’t get it to fit my feet so I didn’t review.

    I also got some Aliens, and while they’re interesting I felt they were a bit too minimalist to fit my quiver.

    And yes, I’ve got boots such as Spectre here, Freedoms are up in Washington being wrung out, and so forth.

    Oh, and despite appearances this time of year, remember we’re not a gear review website. We pick and choose, and have fun. We don’t feel any obligation to cover everything. We leave that up to Skiing magazine (grin).

    Not sure what you mean by “Dynafit Advertising.” I doubt they consider a mod on their flagship boot, using another brand’s parts, to be advertising!

    Also regarding Dynafit, there is no boot out there that has the walk-mode lean-lock combo that the Dynafit gives with the “Ultralock” and “Driving Spoiler.” The weight reduction that system allows, combined with how solidly it triangulates cuff rigidity as well as mobilizes for touring is pretty tough to match. So, we tend to like it and use it, and thus write about it.

  45. TC November 5th, 2013 6:11 pm

    re. Aliens
    Thanks for your comments Dane. Indeed – that is what I’ve been wondering about with the Alien. It appears to be a great spring touring boot – but I was just curious if people were coming up with mods/insulated gaiter designs for making them viable winter touring boot. It is likely wiser to do the jump up in weight to the TLT6 or LaSportivas (or TLT7 with improved buckles + hinge rivets?). But once you start going lighter… it is addictive!

    Thanks for your comments too, Lou.
    Sorry – advertising wasn’t the best choice of words. The reason I read WildSnow is because I value the opinions expressed by yourself and many of other other contributors.


  46. Dane November 5th, 2013 6:55 pm

    I like Lou’s rivet rebuild But worry about the prongs going into the boot to set the bushing. John’s buckle effort for the TLT5 from last year is very clean looking. Lou makes al lthsi look so easy. Have to wonder why Dynafit can’t? These are all gbasic design improments. Not like the boot is being used for soemhting it is not designed for. No big air or bump skiing on a lft happening here.

    Little dissapoointing that Dynafit isn’t more responsive. I just ordered steel springs for my Lo techs so may be I shoudl be happy with that 🙂

    The EVO/PDG are really fun boots and could so easy replace the TLT when used without the tongue. Done so myself but wouldn’t have if I had know how fragile the tread/sole was. Buy in for the Alien 1 with the rigidity I want is steep. Add to that the gaiter issue and the cold feet keeps me using the PDG instead. But turns out even the PDG needs a pant or a boot gaiter in less than perfect conditions.

    No question though once you drop that kind of weight from your feet/bindings (Lo-tech anything) hard to go back. I won’t until forced. I am surprised Lou hasn’t gone all in yet myself.

  47. Lou Dawson November 5th, 2013 7:29 pm

    Dane, yeah, the prongs are not a problem if the T-nut remains stationary, but it’ll cut a nice disk out of the Grilamid if it rotates! Improvements coming. As for lighter boots, I work as much on my ergonomics as I do weight, and have found that the super-light boots are too hard to tune for how I like a boot to behave. Not saying the feather boot isn’t out there for me, but I tend to stay with the slightly heavier stuff. Lou

  48. jonah November 9th, 2013 9:59 am

    sorry if i missed this in the blog roll.
    when and where will the spectre buckle be available?

  49. Paddy November 9th, 2013 10:14 pm

    Any word on if/when the TLT6 tounges (specifically the stiff one) will be available as parts; and if they’re compatible with the TLT5? I’m one of the (apperantly very few) who loves the TLT5 metatarsal flex, but I’d love a stiffer tounge for ‘funky’ snow conditions.

  50. Lou Dawson November 10th, 2013 6:46 am

    Jonah, I asked and it sounded like the buckles would be available from retailers who want to stock or order them special, and from La Sportiva customer service. After publishing the post, I asked them specifically if the buckles would be available as a part, and the answer was yes (thankfully).

  51. Lou Dawson November 10th, 2013 10:42 am

    Paddy, I’ve got quite a few TLT tongues around here, and they appear to swap fine given the correct size. So be sure to get the correct size to go along with your shell size, and if any trouble all you’ll need to do is trim a small amount of plastic off the part that inserts in the front of the boot.

    Also, I’ve found that you can tune how the tongue behaves by using a smaller or larger one for a given shell size, which makes the curve press on your foot differently. All that, and I hardly ever use the swap-in tongues!

    Due to the multiple SKUs that it would require for Dynafit to stock many of these tongues (different SKU for each shell size), my guess is that they might not be easily available or they might run out of them quickly if they’ve only got an inventory for spare parts.


  52. Dane November 10th, 2013 2:05 pm

    Paddy, my take from the TLT5 and 6 and switching tongues around between MTn/Performance 5 and 6 is all the dark colored tonges are the same. If you have a TLT5 Mtn…it seem to be the same tongue as the black tongue of a TLT5 P. Obvious place to give us the ability to change the flex of the boots. Changing out of a black 6 tongue inot a TLT 5 isn’t going to make any difference that I can tell o na rug test. Might be a tiny bit but from my rug test…has to be slim from what I can tell:) My guess is…it aint any different at all. .

  53. Paddy November 10th, 2013 6:41 pm

    So is there a difference between the black tongue on the TLT5P and the Dark Green one on the TLT5MTN (other than color)? Obviously the carbon cuff on the P’s stiffer, but since I only own the Mtn. I haven’t gotten to compare it to the Performance. All in all I LOVE my TLT5’s, in good pow, I ski them without the tongue and think they ski great. But I’m a big dude (200lbs), and when the snow gets bad (and Sun Valley where I live is the spiritual home of wind-beaten ski mountaineering), I feel like even green tongue in, I’d like just a little more forward stiffness to drive against. Laterally, they’re plenty stiff to drive my Manaslu’s and Hi-5’s at the (mostly low) speeds I ski. 🙂

  54. Dane November 10th, 2013 7:00 pm

    “So is there a difference between the black tongue on the TLT5P and the Dark Green one on the TLT5MTN (other than color)?”

    Let me change my opinion.

    My take on the 5 after side by side rug tests and hand flex again just now is the green one is slighter softer than a black TLT5 P black tongue. New light colored green TLT6 tongue is a lot softer than the dark green tonue. Not sure there is a lot of difference between the black 5P and the 6P black tongues. But I admit to thinking the TLT6 black tongue was softer than it is. It is stiff. I’m interested in what Lou and others think..

  55. Lou Dawson November 10th, 2013 7:06 pm

    Dane, I’m glad you revisited the issue. To me, the “hard” tongue that comes with TLT6 is noticeably stiffer, both when flexed by hand and while in boot. It is too stiff for my taste, but for Americans for whom stiffer is always better (yes, I know…) it could be the ticket. Lou

  56. Dane November 10th, 2013 7:30 pm

    Thanks Lou..everyone cna sue another pair of hands 😉 Back to the TLT5? I had first thought there was only a tiny bit of differenece…may be none, between the tLT5 green and TLT5 black tongue. I don’t have the black TLT5 black tongue on hand but it is no where close to the black TLT6 balck tongue from what I remember. Is the TLT6 black tongue a lot stiffer than anything previous? My guess tonight is, it is? Your thought?

  57. Lou Dawson November 10th, 2013 8:06 pm

    Yeah, the TLT6 “black beauty” is stiffer than anything else to date. Lou

  58. Mark November 10th, 2013 10:34 pm

    Yes, the black tongue of TLT 6 is significantly stiffer than green one. Great mod Lou. I cannot figure why Dynafit hasn’t reversed the instep buckle yet. Gotta be some marketing thing.

  59. Colin Lantz November 11th, 2013 8:20 am

    The extra Spectre Pegasus buckles will ship to us (La Sportiva NA) from Italy with our next shipment of boots — probably end November, beginning of December leaving Italy. With shipping, customs, etc. I’d say it would be safe to say they probably will not be ready and available in our warehouse until mid to end of December. I’ll post if they come earlier but right now that looks like the timing. Never occurred to us that people would want to use them to modify other boots so we didn’t think we need them earlier.

  60. Lou Dawson November 11th, 2013 8:23 am

    Colin, you guys needed to have been thinking more outside the box, or in your case, the shipping container (grin)?

    As it were, too bad they can’t just stick a few dozen buckles in a cardboard box and send ’em over via postal.

    ‘best, Lou

  61. Colin Lantz November 11th, 2013 8:28 am

    They might be here earlier Lou – just using the old “better to under promise and over deliver” technique here (double – grin).

  62. Paddy November 11th, 2013 8:25 pm

    Thanks Dane and Lou! I see some boot modding in my future (Black Beauty tongue, Sportiva buckle, Techina Cochise power strap). Now it just needs to keep snowing.

  63. Dane November 14th, 2013 12:20 am

    Lou as always gets me thinking. I was able to drop shell size and weight on the TLT6 using a new PDG liner and added a ONE buckle set up (bolt on) at the instep to clean up the boots’ profile. Also not sure everyone understands the different generations of the instep buckle on the TLT5 and 6. The 6 is a much more robust and secure buckle than the previous versions with a dbl cam “lock” instead of a single cam/or no cam. Plus they added spring tension to the buckle to help even more. The TLT6 instep buckle will also work on the TLT5 if you don’t have a really high instep. Just requires punching the rivet. I have pictures if it would help.

  64. Brian December 16th, 2013 12:08 pm

    Hopefully you’ve had enough time on the TLT6 now.. obviously by eliminating the metatarsal flex zone for the TLT6 they were hoping to improve skiability. However, by doing the nail modification to stop the flex on the TLT5, do you think it achieves the same thing, or is the TLT6 sole noticeably more rigid on descent, even after modifying the TLT5?

    What about when doing the rivet modification on the TLT5 to try and eliminate the sole flex?

  65. Dane December 16th, 2013 12:26 pm

    I think the 6 is more rigid than the nail mod o na 5. Some thoughts for you I just posted this morning after 5 days straight sking my TLT6 a good bit of it on lifts and 115mm ski. (Don’t make fun of me Fede! )

    Some follow up I think worth mentioning on the TLT6

    Boot is a lot more durable than the 5 was for me. No ski chop on the side while lift skiing, where I thought the 5 might eventually fail.

    The lack of sole flex makes a huge difference for me and very notable every where walking, in a unpleasnt way. 6 is a real ski boot…just a lwt ski boot. Not a super light ski boot. Way less of a pleasant as a hiker than the 5.

    No flex /different design mold makes the 6 something like double the technical ski boot IMO. I have been skiing a pot full of 110mm+ ski in the 6 and the soft green tongue or no tongue and no strap. About what I was getting for performance on a 5 with tongue and strap. Flex is softer with the green tongue. More importantly I find the boot more progressive in forward flex set up that way but the rigid sole more than makes up for the softer flex than a hard tongue and power strap while precision skiing off the lift on big boards. All this while having fit the inner very loose around my forfoot. CR inner is turning out to be a decent inner boot. Better than expected. But if I was using it just to downhill ski in, which you could as the boot is very solid, I’d add a full foam liner…Palua or Intuition. Which in turn would take up the forfoot foot volume. But addin ga more supportive and lower volume liner would limit my use of the 6 as a touring boot.

    For any number of reasons now I prefer the 6 over my Maestrale RS as a down hill boot although no question the RS is always going to be more durable….and heavier. RS was a big step up for skiing on the TLT5. TLT 6 is a lot closer IMO to the RS…better IMO for my own use than to the TLT5 for performance. Same but different than the Spectre, RS boots as a easy comparison. Lighter than any of then still. Not the end of of AT boots but holding it’s own in the 2nd gen. form YMMV .

  66. Lou Dawson December 16th, 2013 12:54 pm

    Six is more rigid than my “nail modded” 5, and a bit more rigid than the riveted 5. But my riveted 5s skied quite well and were noticeably stiffer. I got an amazing fit by downsizing the shell to get it good and tight on my skinny ankles, then blowing out the front and sides of the toe box. Agree, an aftermarket liner is always something to consider, I almost always mold up a pair of Intuition Pro Tour and see how they do. Sometimes I like them better than stock, sometimes I stick with stock. It’s very individual, based on foot shape and skiing style. Lou

  67. Herb Jones December 18th, 2013 4:47 pm

    Looking at the picture of the disassembled TLT6 I noticed a square inner rivet piece in the scaffo. Looks just like a Scarpa inner cuff rivet T-nut as used with their adjustable rivets. Also noticed metal, possibly from same type of T-nut inside outer pivot boss. As I am about ready to attempt that mod on my TLT5M, I am very curious.
    What would be the best way to press the toothed shoulder on the T-nut into the scaffo plastic without creating too much stress around the hole? My bootfitter friend suggested just cold pressing the T-nut into the hole with a bolt and appropriate fittings such as a socket and washers, but I am afraid the Grillamid might crack and he has little experience with that plastic. Have you seen any problems with stress cracking on any of the many mods you have done with this material?
    I do apologize for deviating from the strap mod. I can’t find anyone around here who has your experience working with this boot. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

  68. Lou Dawson December 18th, 2013 6:05 pm

    Hi Herb, no secret, I use parts from Scarpa customer service as well as from former Garmont. And from the hardware store. As for pressing the T-nut in, I usually rig up some sort of nut/bolt/washers to set it, then warm it with a soldering iron so it seats, but I’m careful not to heat too much nor use too much pressure with the press setup. I’ve experimented with cold pressing, a bit of warmth goes a long way. Even warming everything up with a heat gun helps, especially if you’re in a cold workshop. You can easily blow the T-nut right through the boot. I’ve practiced this stuff on a lot of dumpster boots. Recommended. As for stress cracks, I’ve not had any problems but while I use my boots quite a few days, I’m not that hard on them.

  69. Herb Jones December 18th, 2013 8:00 pm

    Thanks Lou,
    That’s encouraging. I had considered using a soldering iron to warm up the part with some control to avoid blowing through the shell. I will try to find some dumpster boots to practice first. Just realized that I might find them at the local trash/recycling center where they have a shed for reusable stuff. Won’t be grilamid, but its a start.
    Thank you for the advice.

  70. Scott March 17th, 2014 11:25 am

    You are the MOD man Lou!

    I made a relatively cheap mod to my TLT mountains this year. Although the liner fit and felt great, I wanted a little stiffer front flex. I was worried I did not have enough room for a replacement Intuition liner. I bought a pair of $40 touring tongues from Intuition, as theirs are interchangeable. I cut the stock tongues off of the Dynafit liner and sewed in the Intuition tongue. Fantastic improvement, same fit, much stiffer boot. It worked great and saved me $150!

  71. Lou Dawson March 17th, 2014 12:46 pm

    Scott, I did the same thing only I glued the Intuition tongues inside the Dynafit tongues, to fill up for my chicken legs. Had to add some foam behind as well, but the boots ski perfectly now, though I went back to using a power strap sadly enough…

  72. Chet March 17th, 2014 1:40 pm

    Lou, did the buckle swap change the feel of the boot fit at the instep? Is new buckle easier, same, or tougher to close than original buckle?

  73. Lou Dawson March 17th, 2014 2:03 pm

    Just as easy to close. Didn’t change fit. I do need to move it back a few millimeters once I get around to it. Same with the stock buckle. The buckle anchor needs a small divot skived out of the boot plastic so it’ll sit flush. Lou

  74. Ji March 17th, 2014 6:46 pm


    I bought a pair of regular aliens last year – Carbon cuffs were too expensive!! They came with the gaiters but they looked very minimal and the big gaping holes all over the boot were just waiting to pick up snow.

    My possible solutions were:
    1. Full boot gaiter – don’t seem to be very popular anymore and I’d need to cut two small holes in the back to allow for the lean lock mechanism to function. Possibly viable if you can find a gaiter that would fit.

    2. Rear opening “shoe lace” gaiter – lots of types available, probably the easiest to do but I wasn’t sure the front would attach properly to the boa system or onto the front fastening of the tongue in such a way to ensure no snow ingress while skiing – i.e. snow being forced backwards along the ski boot.

    3. Custom – I went to the local hardwear store and bought some neoprene rubber boot liners for about $10 and then forced one over my boot and cut out the heel and forefoot and too small holes at the back for the lock mechanism, a small hole to allow access to the boa knob and reduced the height of the sock. I then removed this sock and copied the cuts more neatly on the other sock and then fitted both over my boots.

    Over the past season and a half they’ve worked very well and the only issue is they are a little big and I get some snow accumulation inside the liner near the toe, also the toe of the gaiter can ride up as the gaiters seem a little loose after use. Otherwise boots are warm and fully waterproof. I’m thinking I’ll buy the smaller size sock / liner this year and cut similarly but also cut through the instep to make it possible to get the smaller / tighter liner / sock onto the boot and add some velcro or a leather strap to secure the gaiter.

    I have size 29 and used local XL liners (I’m in Japan so they might be L in the US) as they seemed closest in size.

  75. Erik Erikson March 18th, 2014 12:32 am

    Lou, maybe someday you could do a blog post or add some more detailled description / fotos here on what mods you (generally) do concerning fit of the boot? Above you mentioned “adding some foam behind to fill up for your chicken legs”.
    Such mods may seem obvious for you and others who are familiar with the work of a bootfitter. But as said in another blog post( ) bootfitting is not as common in Europe (at least Austria) as in the US. So it would be very helpfull for all of us Euros with not so regular shaped, especially narrow feet to get a clue what to do best by yourself to improve fit.

  76. xav March 18th, 2014 7:57 am

    I totally second Erik’s suggestion!

  77. Lou Dawson March 18th, 2014 8:10 am

    We’ll do what we can in terms of boot fitting techniques. The basic stuff is common sense, so pretty easy to blog about and do at home. But much of modern boot fitting is based on a complete “process” that begins with an evaluation of the skier’s anatomy as well as their skiing, then proceeds to custom footbeds, shell modifications, ramp angle adjustments, etc. Covering all of that could be a whole separate website! So, yeah, we’ll do more boot fitting posts but don’t expect us to become a competitor to !!!!

  78. Chris Beh March 18th, 2014 9:02 am

    What does one of your modded out TLT6 boots weigh (what size, too)?

  79. Lou Dawson March 18th, 2014 9:57 am

    1240 grams per boot, 27.5, BSL 297, with UCP-light, no add-on tongue, with power strap. I’ve not done any weight hacking such as cutting down the sole material. Considering how well they ski, I’m very happy with the weight, although once I have skis that weigh less than my boots I’ll be starting to wonder if the shoes are too heavy (grin).

  80. OMR March 18th, 2014 11:40 am


    Sorry this is off-subject, just a question on Speed Radicals (no brakes). I’ve used them for three years and I’m now experiencing some upward play in both heels when locked down. For example, when standing flat I can lift my heel slightly (1/16 inch). More of a rattle than actual movement, but still a concern. I pulled them apart and everything looks new and unblemished. The movement seems to come from a slightly smaller spring cup than the nesting space in the post. My other rig with Verticals have zero play (they have brakes which might add some tension). Have you seen this rattle before?

    Thanks, OMR

  81. Brian March 19th, 2014 8:11 am

    Has anyone found how to mod the boot for micro-adjust on the upper buckle? That’s one of my biggest problems with how the boot skis. Can’t quite seem to get the right tightness on the upper buckle.

  82. Doug cripplecreekbc March 19th, 2014 8:57 am

    I have severely modified my Spitfires including trying the Pegasus buckle install. However the black shell tongue and flex point make it very hard for this buckle to span across. I think to do it effectively I will have to notch the black tongue and drill another hole to move the two pieces closer together. Just a warning that on the Spitfire/Sideral it might not be as straight forward of a mod.

  83. Christian March 19th, 2014 12:53 pm

    Thanks! Might try this on my Vulcans if I end up having any issues.

  84. Mark Worley March 19th, 2014 11:18 pm

    Lou, did I read correctly that you do not use either of the removable tongues with the TLTs?

    P.S. Cool buckle mod. Waiting for Dynafit to reverse and re-design instep buckle.

  85. Lou Dawson March 20th, 2014 5:44 am

    Hi Mark, yeah, I don’t use the removable tongues. They do make the boots ski better but I don’t like the hassle. I’m waiting for tounges with a latch/hinge system that stiffen up for skiing and pivot for walking. Some boots have had those over the years, is rather surprising it’s not a standard feature on cabrio ski touring boots.

    I’m not sure why Dynafit never relocated the buckle up on top. Might be because it sometimes gets in the way of the boot cuff flexing, or perhaps the designers didn’t like the way it looked. Me, I refuse to use boots that open up while I’m snow climbing.


  86. Jeff March 20th, 2014 9:35 am

    Hey Lou,

    Thanks for all the tips, love this blog!

    I’ve been having a problem with the Top buckle of my TLT5P’s. Basically, the lean lock peg doesn’t seat very well when I’m closing the buckle causing me to have to fiddle with it a bunch to actually get it to lock. Then when I try to unbuckle (ski to hike) there are several minutes of wrenching on and cursing at the buckle to get them undone. What I believe is happening is the Lock peg is rubbing against the slot in the carbon cuff causing the friction.

    Have you seen this before/have any ideas how to resolve? Might this be a warranty issue?

  87. Seth Schmautz March 20th, 2014 12:50 pm

    Lou, do you have a pair of Vulcans or Mercuries in house that you could look at to see if this same mod would work on that boot? Or perhaps you could measure the buckle for me and I could check myself at home? How much do these buckles cost from La Sportiva?

  88. Lou Dawson March 20th, 2014 4:07 pm

    Pretty sure it won’t work on Vulcan or Merc because buckle anchor is the cuff pivot. Lou

  89. lederhosen42 March 21st, 2014 4:45 am

    Own the mighty Dynafit Mercury boot. Coming up to the end of season number two and close to 180 days of thrashing. Hiked extensively in all sorts of nasty conditions in ’em. Blower covered shifty talus/scree in late summer and early season, and hit the stair chair up button in many crusty snow/spring variable conditions climbing the steeps. Buckle #2 never popped open. Will update the first time it does. Rubber on the soles is pretty beat up. plastic around metal toe inserts dramatically worn away and they protrude like little bulging eyeballs. looks kinda cute.

  90. Lou Dawson March 21st, 2014 9:16 am

    Angle of Mercury buckle is probably better, etc. Good thing. Everyone, just because we do a mod on one boot doesn’t mean that other boots need it. Don”t overthink. Just ski and fix what doesn’t work. Even TLT6 opens less easily than TLT5, my mod is more about insurance, as I had a TLT5 open up while I was rappelling, not pretty. Would prefer to not be trying to buckle boots while hanging off a cliff. Lou

  91. Mark Worley March 21st, 2014 9:22 am

    That light aluminum cuff rivet replacement from B&D is slick looking. Doubt I ski enough to justify installation, but who knows. Might get ’em anyway.

  92. Seth Schmautz March 21st, 2014 11:11 am

    FWIW, the reason that I was asking about it was because this happens to me on my Vulcans every time I boot pack. It happened last week on Saturday, and when the buckle opens, it put itself at risk for breaking.

    I took pictures of my Vulcans to compare, and I think it can be done. It would probably require simply shortening the mid buckle strap rather than removing it altogether. I’ll post back here when/if I get around to it. Thanks for the inspiration!


  93. lederhosen42 March 22nd, 2014 10:25 am

    Kinda don’t understand the issue of buckles opening…just throw a wrap of duct tape or a rubber ski strap over it if it’s that big a deal.

  94. Erik Erikson March 23rd, 2014 12:58 am

    As for boot-fitting: I agree that the basics are common sense. But living in an area where boot-fitting is almost not done professionally, problems start f.e. in what mnaterials to use. So I always have to add some material to my liners, but there is no source to get the “right” ones. So I tried sponges, pieces of carpets, outdoor matresses and so on. I think many readers in Europe (including myself) don´t even know what kind of material Lou uses when speaking of “adding some foam”.. Some hints concering that and where to place it best would indeed be very appreciated.

  95. Daniel March 23rd, 2014 3:22 am

    palau sell some boot fitting materials on their website, ie adhesive foam sheets. pretty cheap.

  96. Erik Erikson March 23rd, 2014 10:32 am

    Daniel, thanks a lot! Great, exactly what I need. I´d like to add the link here for others with bootfitting-do-it-your-self issues.,us,3,7.cfm

  97. Andy M. April 2nd, 2014 4:52 pm

    I had an idea for modding my TLT6s. I like to skin with them without the tongue and with the power strap undone, but ski with the green tongue and power strap. I was wondering if you could remove the power strap from the boot cuff and instead mount it through the holes at the top of the tongue, essentially putting it on backward when you put the tongues in.

    Has anyone tried this? I thought of it while eating breakfast this morning, and haven’t had a chance to fiddle with it. If the stock “speed holes” at the top are too high, I’d guess it would be easy to drill a couple holes a bit lower on the tongue.

  98. Lou Dawson April 2nd, 2014 6:30 pm

    Andy, that sounds good. On this end, I’m going to try that Dynafit Radical boot power strap just as soon as I can get some. Or do a mod that’s similar. The velcro is really starting to bother me, sticking to everything. Of course, the Scarpa Evo boot might eliminate all of this, if I can leave it all buckled and power strapped the same for both uphill and down. That test is coming soon to a WildSnow blog post near you!

  99. Fede April 18th, 2014 3:21 am

    Disgraceful mods 😉

  100. Lou Dawson April 18th, 2014 5:18 am

    Fede, you finally stopped by for a chat! Always missing you. Lou

  101. Ali E March 19th, 2015 9:54 am

    I have been having a problem with my TLT 5 instep buckles popping open spontaneously, even while skiing. I think it is happening because as the liners have packed out, I have been overclamping to compensate, creating a fair bit of tension. There is also increased play in the rivet, which might contribute to the problem.

    I have managed to get hold of replacement buckles, both the yellow metal clamp and the corresponding black plastic ladder, together with their rivets and washers. The new yellow piece has an improved design with a peg instead of a spring, which I’ve been told resolves this problem.

    Unfortunately, there is no one near where I live that seems to have any experience in this repair. Before I range further in my search, can Lou or anyone else who has done this kind of thing tell me what the best way to remove the old buckle is? Drill through the rivet? And do you need a special Dynafit rivet machine to fix the new one? Many thanks for any advice!

  102. Lou Dawson 2 March 19th, 2015 10:09 am

    Hello Ali, why not just ship your boots to a competent shop?

    But sure, such rivets are usually removed by grinding off one of the heads with a large carbide ball on a “foredom” rotary grinder, with water spray to prevent damage from over heating. The replacement is often T-nutted, but some boot fitters do have rivet presses, as do warranty centers.

    You can remove boot rivets by drilling out, but they get quite hot and often become “spinners.” The way I do it is I start with a very small drill bit and do a pilot hole all the way through, I then use a fairly large bit and try to just cut away the head of the rivet, all the while spraying with water. If you get a spinner, sometimes you can smash it tighter by backing with a hammer and striking with a second hammer, or try just holding high friction material such as a rubber pad against the backside of the rivet inside the boot.

    Obtaining the correct T-nuts is sometimes a pain. Hardware store can actually be a source, sometimes. Or McMaster Carr.

    If it was me, I’d just swap to a Sportiva buckle (grin).


  103. Ali E March 19th, 2015 10:59 am

    Thanks Lou, that’s good info. Yeah, I think I just have to ship them to a shop that can do the work. I was trying to see if I could get it done quickly and more cheaply nearby, as I plan to sell the boots once they’re fixed. I’ve got myself a new pair of TLT 6s 😀

  104. Nexus6 July 13th, 2015 2:54 pm

    This thread got me thinking about a way to upgrade my TLT5 Performance boots to TLT6’s. Does anyone know if there are any differences between the TLT5 cuff and the TLT6 cuff shape? Could a TLT5 Performance carbon cuff be transferred to a TLT6 Mountain lower? I already have the Ultimate Cuff Pivot kit installed so it seems like this would be an easy upgrade?

  105. Lou Dawson 2 July 14th, 2015 6:00 am

    Nexus, I’m pretty sure you could do the cuff grafting, albeit with some fooling around with how the cuff pivots were installed. Cool idea. Blog post? Lou

  106. NWpowhound November 30th, 2015 10:17 am

    Hi Lou,

    Speaking of frankenbooting, do you know if TLT5 spoilers fit in TLT6 boots?

    Are the TLT6 spoilers left and right specific? And if so, can a left be put in the right side (or vice versa) if a spoiler broke and you only had the “other side” spare part?

  107. Lou Dawson 2 November 30th, 2015 10:25 am

    Not sure what you mean by “spoilers.” Pray tell?

  108. NWpowhound November 30th, 2015 10:42 am

    Thanks for the quick reply. The gray plastic rear heel piece that is held in place by a push pin, and contains the metal ski mode lock plate. It is kinda the achilles heel of the boot, by position, and because it is fragile.

    Part number “9” as per hyperlinked diagram.

  109. Lou Dawson 2 November 30th, 2015 10:58 am

    I’m sitting here looking at both boots and I’d say it’s a 99% chance the Ultra Lock can swap between TLT5 and TLT6

    ‘best, Lou

  110. NWpowhound November 30th, 2015 11:14 am

    thanks Lou, Do you know if the left and right are interchangeable, i.e. swap Left with Right?

  111. Lou Dawson 2 November 30th, 2015 11:21 am

    yes, interchangeable

  112. NWpowhound November 30th, 2015 1:05 pm

    Excellent! Thanks Lou!

    PS. Shames Mountain says hello!

  113. Vladimir Krivtsov February 1st, 2016 5:25 am

    Hi, Lou, big thanks for all the amazing info, it really helped me liking my TLT 5’s, now after 3 sweet mods I wear top-comfort skiboots. The one thing I can’t figure out is, every time my feet are really wet, like snow is penetrating but i’m not sure of the reason. Thought it was the rivets, so I duct-taped all of them and it was the same, and all tapes were intact. I couldn’t find any info bout it here or elsewhere in internet, so I’ll be grateful if anybody could help. I’m sorry if I posted in a wrong topic
    Greetings from Bulgaria

  114. Ji February 1st, 2016 5:51 am

    Vladimir, wet boots is a perennial issue. There are generally 2 issues. Water ingress – snow / slush / water from outside – and water egress – getting your sweat out of the boot / boot inner. If you always have wet boots every time you go out you might want to try an internal vapour barrier – a plastic bag works great if you have access to fresh socks etc. to refresh your feet – to see if the problem is sweat or snow. If the problem is in to out there are several boot liners that now “breath”, if out to in I’s suggest buying or making a whole boot gaiter. My solution has been a gaiter and I’ve had minimal issues with my very holey Scarpa Aliens.

  115. Lou Dawson 2 February 1st, 2016 5:52 am

    Vlad, it’s probably just the low volume tight fit and sweat from your feet. Been a problem for 50 years, since the first plastic ski boots, funny the industry has not solved it. Some folks are trying. Lou

  116. XXX_er February 1st, 2016 10:26 am

    After I got alpine boots that were clear PU plastic i noticed beads of moisture on the inside of the boot even on cold hardpack days at the hill when there was no way moisture could have made its way in and I wondered what was going on … condensationÉÉ

  117. Vladimir Krivtsov February 1st, 2016 12:36 pm

    Lou, I thought so, but I hoped there was something else. Probably neoprene bike gaiters really could help. I ride 40-80 km/day (4-8 hours out) with a snowkite (hence the golden lean lock mod was done – it was really tiring before that) and I’m really warm, so I think the problem will remain if it’s the sweat. I’ll try the plastic bag next time – what a simple and geniuos suggestion! For a single day, being wet is not a major problem, but I’m not sure I can make 2-3 days outings in the mountains without a place to dry the inner shoes. I’ve heard there was a treatment for the feet against sweating, which some folks do before the winter and it helped.
    Thanks for the replies, guys!

  118. Rob Bates November 25th, 2017 10:49 am

    I have TLT6s for boarding last 3 years-never quite as good as old TLT4s. I don’t like the restriction of the back when the buckle is locked into the the inner boot. This seems to be a problem for me, but not other people. Filing the metal insert which is for forward lean does not help me. Taping the hold helps so I cut the buckle “nubs” off so the the buckle locks into the outer book only. Downhill in up hill mode is an option but is sub-optimal. A prominent hard booter suggests the using the vinyl tubing.
    Also, just a thought. Instead of cutting the boots up, right not heat the shells while wearing them and bend them while standing on your board and simulating turns. I turned a halogen work light on my old TLT4s and they started melting. Sort of a reverse liner heat up to mold them.
    Thanks for any thoughts. Oh year, I bought a pair of Dynafit TLT Speedfits

  119. Lou Dawson 2 December 16th, 2017 12:38 pm

    Anyone notice cracks forming around the toe fittings on TLT 6? A guy sent me this photo, we’re thinking it’s just cosmetic but it’s probably good to ask the collective if anything has been seen…

    Cracked boot

  120. Cody February 4th, 2018 10:36 am

    Kinda grave digging this post but coming across the Phantom Boot Mod Kit which not only replaced the pivot but relocates the bottom buckle. I like the idea of this since I have a high instep right under the stock buckle location

    Lou, thoughts on if this would be reducing the stiffness of the boot? If so almost thinking this + a more forward buckle location like on a vulcan or mercury.

  121. Ian McKirdy March 2nd, 2018 2:46 pm

    Just doing this for upcoming trip.

    Make sure you ask for catch pieces as well as buckle as Sportiva SKU on website is buckles only. Very helpful staff will add them to order if you ask.

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    Backcountry skiing is dangerous. You may be killed or severely injured if you do any form of ski mountaineering, skimo randonnee and randonnée skiing. The information and news on this website is intended only as general information. Due to human error and passing time, the information, text and images contained within this website may be inaccurate, false, or out-of-date. By using, reading or viewing the information provided on this website, you agree to absolve the owners of Wild Snow as well as content contributors of any liability for injuries or losses incurred while using such information. Furthermore, you agree to use any of this website's information, maps, photos, or binding mounting instructions templates at your own risk, and waive Wild Snow owners and contributors of liability for use of said items for ski touring or any other use.

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