Naxo randonnee alpine touring AT ski binding
FAQ
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Shop for Naxo Alpine Touring Binding
by Louis Dawson What is the Naxo Binding? This backcountry skiing binding is sold in two models. The NXO1 is slightly lighter but allows quite a bit of boot movement, the NX21 is significantly stiffer and slightly heavier.
How can I tell the difference
between the 2003/2004 and 2004/2005 models of the NXO1? Who makes the Naxo binding?
What makes the Naxo special? How much do Naxo bindings weigh? One size medium 04/05 Naxo NX01binding, with brake and screws: 39.8 ounces, 1128 grams One size medium 05/06 Naxo NX21, with brake and screws: 42 ounces Where can I get Naxo bindings? What boots will the Naxo work with? Note: Some randonee boots may come from the factory with their sole the wrong shape to correctly trigger closure of the Naxo step-in heel. This can usually be fixed by grinding a small amount of rubber off the boot sole. If you want to get technical, the DIN (see below) standard for Randonnée boot heel sole thickness is 32 mm, plus or minus 3 mm. This standard is now bent to the thin side, with most AT rando boots coming from the factory with soles at about 30 mm at the heel. In one sense this is a good thing, as modern boots can be manufactured with thinner soles for lighter weight. The Naxo is made for boots with this more common heel thickness. More, the Naxo closes when the heel of your boot engages a small tab. If there is a bevel on the heel of your boot, this tab may not engage correctly. If you suspect this bevel is causing problems with closure, try building it up with boot sole repair material such as Shoe Goo, along with grinding a bit of thickness off the sole.
Is the Naxo really equivalent to a state-of-the
art alpine binding?
Is the front touring pivot and mounting
plate weak? Any durability issues? The most vulnerable part of the Naxo appears to be the cocking lever (see photo above). It is long, the plastic is thin, and when you you step into the binding the cocking lever snaps forward at hyper velocity. While breakage of this part is not common, it was being reported during this 03/04 season. Naxo has strengthened this this part on the 04/05 model. Along with that, they've also strengthened several parts in the toe area that broke on rare occasions during the 03/04 winter season. This strengthening was done by using different plastic and slightly changing the molding shape, while adding about 1 ounce of weight per binding. Two issues regarding cocking lever breakage: If the cocking lever happens to hit something during its movement, and it's already damaged or below zero cold, it could break. Also, if instead of pushing with a ski pole tip you use your foot or a ski to stomp down on the cocking lever to remove the binding, doing so can place quite a bit of force on the lever, and may break it. Thus, when setting up your Naxos make sure the cocking lever is free to snap forward without hitting the rear part of your boots, and don't go wild when you stomp down on the lever -- especially in colder temperatures. Another durability issue with the Naxo, as well as with bindings such as the Fritschi models, is that adjusting the toe jaws too low and tight may damage the binding toe unit. It is critical to set the toe jaws perfectly. During the 03/04 season a number of people had a toe unit break completely off the Naxo binding, thus totally disabling the binding. While this may have been caused by improper adjustment, it is also possible that defective plastic was the culprit. In any case, as I say below, at this juncture don't buy anything but 04/05 season Naxo bindings, and adjust all bindings correctly! See this page for toe jaw height adjustment instructions. If you own the 03/04 Naxo, adjust the toe height correctly, and don't abuse the binding, it is strong enough for normal North American use excluding expeditions and extreme cold such as Denali climbs. Again, remember that all bindings (and ski poles, and skis, etc.) break when subjected to various forms of excessive abuse and over-aggressive operation, especially at colder temperatures. When in the backcountry, treat all your gear with respect -- your life depends on it. If you like to bragg about breaking randonnee gear, you might want to look in the mirror for the problem, not at the gear -- and consider switching to race proven alpine gear combined with Alpine Trekker touring adapters. A minor durability issue is that the Naxo binding has two active rubber bumpers that get rubbed and compressed at every stride. Users who climb major vertical with the Naxo might wear out these bumpers at some point, but they are easily replaced, and the binding would still function if they failed (they appear to just ease out the stride a bit). I've heard all
sorts of hype about the Naxo double pivot, should I deify it? More, to allow room for the toe while walking, some rando bindings attempt to build their side release mechanism into the heel. Result of above: the crux goal of designing plate based tour bindings has always been including lateral release that comes close to the elasticity and release characteristics of alpine bindings. This goal was frequently missed in past generations of bindings because of size and weight constraints for the toe unit. Thankfully, today's compact randonnee toe units (such as those on the Fritschi Freeride) have evolved to an incredible degree, and probably approach the performance of alpine gear toe release. Nonetheless, the Naxo double pivot eliminates the issue of the toe unit being obstructed by the ski while the heel is lifted in tour mode, and thus allows the use of a long toe unit containing a compression spring mechanism similar to the best alpine bindings. In my view, this is an important development in AT technology. Is the Naxo lateral release thus superior to other bindings? There is no way to know the answer without a few seasons of consumer use, along with comparative bench testing. Meanwhile, the beauty of the Naxo system is that as alpine binding technology advances, the Naxo allows space to build things such as upward toe release into the system, using proven alpine technology instead of trying to pack such features into a tiny toe unit. In other words, look for ongoing improvements in the toe release of all randonnee bindings, with Naxo possibly leading the charge. As for walking performance of the Naxo double pivot: Compared to plate "frame" bindings that place the touring pivot well ahead of your toes the Naxo most certainly adds a comfortable and unique feel to your stride, especially at the beginning when you push off for a step. Nonetheless, whether the double pivot adds any efficiency is an open question. Thousands of randonnee skiers have been perfectly happy with the stride of excellent bindings such as the Fritschi and Dynafit offerings. Those thousands will vote with their feet and wallets if the Naxo stride really does offer more vertical per breath, so we'll wait and see on that one. Meanwhile, I'm guessing that someone somewhere is actually doing third-party scientific testing on this issue, and it'll be terrific to see that.
My boot heel
moves up and down too easily, causing annoying play while I'm
skiing, any cure for this? What is the maximum
release "DIN" setting
for Naxo bindings? Downside? Skiers using DIN settings below 7 with the medium and large size Naxo (early models) may find their boot has quite a bit of vertical up/down movement at the heel. I'm researching solutions to this, perhaps swapping in the heel spring from the small size Naxo is the fix, or perhaps using the complete heel unit from a size medium on the frame rails of a size small. (If the spring swap works, it will make the DIN setting marks meaningless and release will have to be set using on snow trials as described in the next paragraph.) Again, as shown in the photo above, the 2004/05 Naxo has significant changes in the vertical release springs, presumably to eliminate problems such as those covered above. (As of autmn 2005 it appears the boot play problem is fixed.) In normal use, the best way to adjust DIN on an AT binding is to start with settings figured from a release setting chart, but biased to the low end of the range you get from the chart, then ski at a resort to test. During normal skiing (not in a wild fall recovery or crazy stunt), if the binding releases when it's not supposed to (e.g., a "pre release") dial up the settings in small increments until you're not pre releasing, but you're still within the range of the chart. Treat the heel and toe separately. In other words, if you experience a vertical "heel up" pre release, dial up the heel release setting, but leave the toe setting alone. You can find a DIN chart and Naxo release setting instructions here. The Naxo doesn't have return springs, should
I care? How much do they weigh? One size medium 2004 Fritschi Freeride, with brake
and screws: 37.1 ounces, 1050 grams It looks like the heel lift (for climbing)
on the Naxo is somewhat short, true? But why can't
the Naxo just have some extra height on the heel lift? Does the Naxo allow my ski to flex
while downhill skiing? Note: Most randonnee bindings allow plenty of movement for ski flex. The only time this "bottoming out" behavior may be a factor is during aggressive skiing, most likely with softer flexing skis. Thus, smaller and less aggressive skiers should ignore this issue while shopping for bindings. Also, observe alpine bindings and you'll see issues with this behavior are not specific to rando. How do I adjust
Naxo bindings for my boots, and set safety release? When I switch from my alpine rig to Naxos,
I'm in the back seat while skiing. I just can't get forward and
feel really awkward. What should I do? If you ski one set of skis/bindings/boots with a different ramp angle than another, you may have trouble switching gear from day-to-day because your stance changes and you have to adjust your timing and turning style. For example, many skiers use alpine gear with fairly aggressive ramp angles, then switch to Randonnée gear and feel like they're in the "back seat" because they have much less ramp. Solution: Check the ramp angle of all your boot/binding combinations. If it varies widely, and you have trouble switching gear, consider various modifications to adjust your ramp angles so all your gear is similar (usually add more angle to your rando gear, rather than subtract from your alpine rig). Here are some methods for doing this: - Use binding or boot shims with your randonee rig to raise your heel. To shim the Naxo heel unit, you'll need a fairly long shim that the rear binding "feet" can rest on (obvious when looking at binding mounted on ski). Fabricate such from dense plastic, or look for long enough alpine binding shim that can be modified. To change your ramp angle with boot shims, simply add a 1/8 inch or slightly thicker shim under your heel inside your randonee boot. Shimming for ramp angle inside the boot is my least favorite option, as it changes the fit of the boot and detracts from walking comfort. - With most randonnee boots, grinding rubber off the toe area of the boot sole so it sits lower on the binding is an easy way to change ramp angle (with all but Dynafit bindings), and works well with the Naxo. Grinding rubber of rando boot soles is also an effective way to reduce weight. A disk grinder with a 30 grit sanding disk works well for removing rubber. Do it outdoors and wear a dust mask. - With Fritschi bindings, you can mount the binding without the decorative plastic thingus under the front of the binding, thus dropping the toe enough to make a difference. The Naxo does not have this option. Watch your screw length if you play around with this Fritschi mod. Note: If you grind your boot soles to change ramp angle or remove weight, and swap your boots between Dynafit bindings and other rando bindings, leave rubber in the "trigger" area of the sole -- the area that pushes down on the trigger that closes the Dynafit binding toe when you step into it. Before grinding, evaluate by snapping the boot into a Dynafit binding and observing which part of the sole contacts that trigger. If you want to go wild with the grinder, you can build up the trigger area on the Dynafit with a small pad of duct tape, or better, a dab of epoxy. I like wide skis, can I get Naxo ski brakes for my planks? What about ski crampons? Why buy Naxo when there are lighter weight
bindings I can get?
Shop for Naxo Alpine Touring Ski Binding
Where does the term
"DIN" come from? This is the body that takes care of standards for ski gear, such as the thickness of boot soles, binding setting numbers, and much more. The DIN standards are administered by outfits known as ISO and ANSI.
What do"AT" and "Randonnee" mean? There are two major families of backcountry ski equipment. The "AT randonnee" family uses bindings that free your heel for vertical movement during walking, then let you latch your heel to your ski for downhill skiing. The other clan is "telemark" gear that always has a free heel, uphill or down. The downhill latched heel family used to be known as "alpine touring," because the free-heel walking/climbing mode was the "touring" mode, and the latched heel mode was the "alpine" mode. Around 1990, when I started writing about such gear for Couloir magazine, I and a few other people often shortened this term to the abbreviation "AT." While the abbreviation caught on to some extent, it is not hip or descriptive (it's often mistaken to mean "all terrain"), so other terms have gained favor. In particular, the term "randonnee," which means "tour" in French, is now frequently used. The word is correctly spelled as Randonnée, but most North American publications don't use the funny looking é. The word "rando" is also used for the same meaning, and I've seen spellings randonee and randone. I use the full variety of spellings on this website to assist people using search engines to find rando information. For extensive Randonnée info please check this article. Wildsnow.com gear review policy |




















