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PHOTOGRAPHY AT THE COLORADO
SKI HUTS
(Or, how to avoid frozen everything)
By Lou Dawson
We'd
been ski trekking for seven days on the Tenth Mountain Trails
of Colorado, bludgeoned by the most powerful winter storm we had
ever seen. It snowed so hard that even breathing was a chore --
the big fluffy flakes would choke you. It was the stuff of powder
skiers dreams, but made for a nightmare of backcountry slogging.
Yet powder has a way of giving you energy, so after feeding at
the at the Fowler/Hilliard hut, we dredged up enough juice to
make a few turns.
It took us an hour to climb to the top of our chosen ski run.
Jim was first down the slope. He stationed himself near the side
of the run, but close enough to the ski lines for the short lens
on his point-and-shoot to catch the action. He burned film as
Ron sliced the neck deep fluff. Reload time came fast, but once
his camera was open, he found his neck strap too short to enable
him to protect the inside of the camera from his freezing breath
and the swirling snow. So, with clumsy mittened hands he took
the strap off -- then dropped his open camera into the bottomless
powder. You could hear him shout for miles.
Picking up the snow packed camera he cleaned it out as well as
possible and stowed it in his pack. Luckily it was a cold storm,
so the snow was moisture free. Later, Jim hung the open camera
out on a ski pole for the afternoon hoping that the dry Colorado
air would sublimate the snow out of the camera body. Unbelievably,
it worked, and Jim used his camera to successfully photograph
the rest of the trip.
Jim
was lucky. He also fared better than my brother on another one
of our winter ski tours. We'd skied to a wilderness hot spring,
and were making a home movie with a recently purchased pro-quality
camera. He was pulling clothing out of his pack -- out shot the
camera on a direct trajectory to the pool. Splash. Total write-off..
Getting good pictures in the winter wilderness is hard. You must
manipulate your equipment in the constant cold -- while maneuvering
on skis or snowshoes. Add fatigue and the awkwardness of a heavy
pack, and carrying the extra weight of a full-on SLR set-up may
seem next to impossible.
In fact, most winter mountaineers find that one body and lens,
or even a miniature point-and-shoot or small digital rig, is all
they can pack.
Yet you can get terrific photos in the winter wilderness, so
carrying enough camera gear is worth the effort. Imagine a powder
muffled spruce forest. You stop for a break, and an ermine peaks
out from a tree well then makes his way towards a pristine patch
of light. Above you, crisp ridgetops skirted with frosted trees
await your eye. Unique and simulating photo opportunities come
as fast as you can turn your head, while the human involvement
of a party making its way through the snowscape adds personality
that roadside photography could never have. Additionally, the
photographer participating in a wilderness ski trip can add a
whole new dimension to his craft by participatory documentation
of the adventure. All this is available if you can manage a camera
at the same time you manage your self!
The problem really boils down to one word: shelter. Trying to
snowcamp and be a productive photographer is difficult at the
least, and nearly impossible without incredibly expensive camping
gear, lots of motivation, and pricy professional camera equipment
that stands up to inevitable moisture. Eliminate snow camping.
Your pack is lighter, equipment maintenance easier, and you have
more energy to devote to your camera. But day trips get old --
you want to get out there and stay out there!
In Colorado, and in many other mountain areas of North America,
there is a solution to the shelter problem: mountain huts. In
my travels, one of the best system of huts I have seen are those
in the Aspen/Vail area of Colorado.
Each hut is equipped with beds, a wood burning stove, and a roomy
kitchen area complete with utensils; you only need to carry a
sleeping bag, your basic ski touring equipment, and food. These
huts make about 500 square miles of wilderness accessible to the
backcountry skier without having to snow camp. The opportunities
for adventure photography are awesome.
The total system is comprised of about 15 huts and four or five
private lodging vendors. The huts are owed by three different
non profit organizations. The oldest are the Alfred Braun huts.
This is a relatively tight grouping of five cabins in the Elk
Mountains between the ski towns of Aspen and Crested Butte. The
Braun Huts are located within one days travel of each other in
fairly rough terrain, but paradoxically two of the huts are only
several hours of skiing from the roads. Traveling between the
Braun huts can be an undertaking for only the experienced ski
mountaineer, while skiing to several of the huts from the road
is possible for those with little experience.
Though the Tenth Mountain Trail Huts are larger and more luxurious,
the Braun Huts have more charisma and backwoods feeling. All the
Braun huts are equally as scenic, the one with the most scenic
variety is probably the Goodwin Green Hut -- by no coincidence
this is the most difficult Braun Hut to reach.
The Tenth Mountain Hut Association huts have the easiest ski
routes and are the most luxurious. "Tenth Mountain"
is a nonprofit organization formed in 1980 to build a trail and
hut system between the ski towns of Aspen and Vail. The idea for
the trail came from several old time Aspenites who skied the route
every few winters and were struck with the beauty of the perfect
cross-country ski terrain in the 50 mile long stretch of foothill
topography between the two towns. The name for the trail stems
from the 10th Mountain Division of the U.S. Army. The "Tenth
Mountain", one of the most decorated divisions in the war,
used the mountains between Aspen and Vail for maneuvers. Their
base was at Camp Hale outside of Leadville, just 35 miles as the
crow flies from Aspen and about the same distance from Vail.
The third hut "system" consists of just one hut, but
what a hut! Built by the Friends Hut Inc., the Friends Hut is
located at timberline on the south side of Pearl Pass between
Aspen and Crested Butte. This is the traditional ski route between
the two towns and the Friends Hut is the perfect lay over for
parties traversing the route.
Friends Hut is a memorial to ten victims of a plane crash on
nearby East Maroon Pass in 1980. It was built in 1984 and is considered
by many to be the best Colorado hut for serious ski mountaineering.
It is definitely the most difficult hut to get to, especially
from the Aspen side. Travel from that direction requires the ascent
of 12,700 foot Pearl Pass (aptly named for its stunning visuals).
Because of the difficulty of travel to the Friends Hut a professional
guide is a necessity for all but the most experienced parties.
In addition to the backcountry huts there are several well located
commercial lodges who cater to those using the hut systems. These
accommodations are used by visitors as staging points for hut
trips as well as a nice finale to a few days in the wilderness.
Information about private commercial accommodations that mesh
with the huts is available from the reservation office of the
hut systems.
Lou Dawson's backcountry ski guidebooks
cover all the 10th Mountain Huts, the Braun Huts, and Friends
Hut. Reservations for the ski huts are required and can be made
by contacting 10th Mountain Huts.
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