By Billy Madsen
April, 2004 - 4:00 am: John Gloor
and I had planned to climb and backcountry ski the East face
of Hunter Mountain, a remote peak near Aspen, Colorado. Our
goals were quickly modified. New snow had fallen and
continued to fall as we sat and waited for Eric, the third
member of our party. At 5:30 am it was still snowing
and Eric had obviously missed his alarm. Since we got out of
bed at 3:00 am and our lunches were packed, we decided to make
a quick trip up Hayden Peak, the most popular ski
touring peak near Aspen.
The weather was still shaky, but
we laughed and said, “Hey,
it’s
just Hayden." We set
off into the dark with light snow falling. Crossing Castle Creek
on a slippery snow-covered log, in the dark, without getting
our feet wet was the first test of the day. With my skis over
my shoulder and my headlamp piercing the surface of the cold
green water I gingerly moved onto the log. I slowly shuffled
my feet until I reached the middle of the stream. Suddenly
my foot slipped and my knee slammed into the frozen
log. I was instantly standing in knee-deep water and my skis
and poles were being swept down stream. I scrambled
out of the water and John ran along the bank chasing my equipment.
I was frustrated and cold,
with water filled boots and wet climbing skins -- but I
was even more determined to press on. Had I known that in three
and half hours I would be buried in an avalanche I would have
swallowed my pride, apologized to John, walked back to the
car to pour the water out of my boots, and returned home before
my family awoke. As it was, I quickly squeezed
the water out my socks, collected my skis and poles from the
river, rebooted and started backcountry skiing into the dark
forest above. (The 2,000 vertical foot approach to Hayden might
be described as interesting by some, but most people would
simply call it a beating with just enough return on investment
to make it worth doing. The route climbs up through tight trees
and gullies -- tough terrain for headlamp travel, and torture
during the ski-out.)
 |
Mount Hayden detail, Stammberger Face center left. |
John and I reached
timberline by daylight, and stood on the summit about three
hours later. The sun continued to play peek-a-boo with the
clouds as we stripped our climbing skins, put on dry gloves
and jackets and prepared to ski. We jumped
on the cornice that overlooks the main Hayden bowl but we couldn’t
get the snow to slide more than a few feet. The wind had blown
hard the previous day, but the upper summit of Hayden
is less than 30 degrees so we were not overly concerned.
Ski Hayden rarely slides and wind slab on the summit was nothing
we had not seen before so we decided to wait a few minutes
for the sun to pop out before we took full advantage of the
dry light boot-top powder. I skied first and linked seemingly
effortless turns down the face. John waited until I finished
my run before he started to backcountry ski, and when he finished
his last turn he had a huge grin on his face. He reached out
to give me a high five and we stood looking at our tracks for
a few minutes with total satisfaction, nodding our heads and
laughing.
As much as John and I enjoy backcountry skiing,
we are also students of our environment. We are always seeking
more knowledge about the surroundings that brings us so much
enjoyment. We had been watching the avalanche reports and we
knew the North and the Northwest facing exposures were not experiencing
the freeze and thaw cycle that is common in late April, but we
wanted to see what was happening with the snow. To that end,
we decided to traverse over to a pitch called the Stammberger
Face. John and I had skied the Stammberger many times, but we
did not intend to ski the face on this day. Our intent was to
assess the snowpack and see how the northerly exposures were
progressing with the spring compaction, then hike the few steps
back from the top of the Stammberger to the standard route, and
ski down the way we'd climbed up.
For our pit study, we selected a section
of snow that was about 30 feet from the top of the Stammberger
main pitch. John dug the pit while I spotted him from
a safe zone at the top. He made quick work of the hole and
after a quick analysis of the snow he yelled up to me, “You
want to take a look?” I slid down to the pit, which
was about four feet deep. There were two distinct layers at depths
of six inches and fourteen inches below the surface. The new
snow was about six inches deep and it sat on a crust that failed
with eight taps on the shovel. The layer at fourteen inches failed
with a light tug on the shovel handle. Below that was about two
and half feet of depth hoar or granular snow that looks like
sugar but can act like ball bearings.
After completing our tests we realized
the snowpack was very weak and that, as we'd guessed, skiing
the face was not an option. I took my skis off to climb back
up to the ridge and John moved skier’s
left where the snow was only about two feet deep. We were less
than fifteen meters apart when suddenly the entire face settled,
creating an eerie hollow sounding "whoomph" that makes
your heart leap to your throat. We'd hardly registered the sound
when the snow fractured above us. John began to scrabble, jump
and hop to avoid the sliding snow, but two huge blocks of snow
rolled over him.
Unfortunately for me, I was standing
in chest deep snow and the fracture propagated about 10 feet
above me. Like a child being sucked out to sea with the tide
I was helplessly pulled down the slope. I sank immediately
as if I were in quick sand and dropped into the gut of the
avalanche. The avalanche was a climax side so all the snow
on the entire face moved at one time, trapping me in a huge
60 mph cloud of snow and air. I was tumbling within the belly
of the beast as thoughts of my young children and my wife began
to fly through my mind. Snow filled my mouth and I distinctly
remember thinking,....is this it…....is
this how I'm going to die………..?
The Stammberger averages about 45 degrees,
and rises about 800 vertical feet with many rock bands and cliffs.
It felt as if I had been pummeled by a huge ocean wave as I was
ripped over the cliffs and down the steeps, tossed and turned
in every direction and bodily contortion imaginable. Suddenly
the turbulence slowed and I could feel myself flying through
the air as I few off a cliff surrounded by thousands of pounds
of snow. I landed heavily on my left side and instantly felt
my left shoulder dislocate. Feebly I tried to swim with the slide
to stay near the surface, and forced myself to spit the snow
out of my mouth to keep my airway clear. As soon as I would spit,
my mouth would again fill with snow forcing me to repeat the
process. My dislocated shoulder only allowed me to do a weak
dog paddle as I tumbled like rag doll, but I new that I had to
try to swim. When I felt the slide begin to slow I tried to get
my hands in front of my mouth to create an air pocket, but like
a fool I had not removed the pole straps from my wrists and now
my poles were acting like anchors pulling my hands deeper into
the snowpack. My goggles were ripped off my face, but my hood
and the collar of my jacket created a small air space between
my face and the snow as I arched towards the surface when the
snow began to slow.
 |
Stammberger Face, approximate avalanche fracture follows
red line. |
When my world
came to a stop I was buried in the slide's concrete embrace,
but a strange calmness flowed
through me. I did not panic or thrash about burning precious
oxygen; I lay peacefully under the snow content that I had a
small air space to breath. I did not think about the many avalanche
victims that die from asphyxiation when an ice mask slowly forms
over the buried victim's face each time their exhalation freezes
to their face. I could breath, but I was trapped. I could barley
wiggle my fingertips, and with the pole straps around my wrists,
there was no chance of digging myself out.
Above me, at the top of the face, John
had somehow ducked under the two large blocks that
rolled over him and hung on for dear life. Now he was stuck at
the top of the pitch looking down at rocks, cliff bands and a
huge cloud of snow in the valley that was quickly settling onto
a massive debris pile. The Stammberger Face is a pretty imposing
pitch when it is covered with snow, but to negotiate this terrain
under these circumstances took a very calm soul. John quickly
began descending the pitch but soon found himself skidding on
his side across slippery rocks. He slide to a stop on top of
a cliff and yelled my name. He did not hear a reply so without
hesitation he hucked his carcass off the cliff. Landing forcefully
on a rock shelf one ski instantly shot off his foot as slide
through broken snow and rocks. He quickly gathered his equipment
and began to scan the debris pile for any sign of life. The scene
looked tragic as broken trees, rocks and huge piles of snow filled
his vision. He pushed aside the thoughts of my wife and my kids
and what he would tell them, and he began to look for any sign
of me. The deposition pile was so large he knew it would be a
tall task to use his transceiver to traverse the mountain of
snow to locate me before time expired. John yelled my name into
the quite mountain air, “Bill!!!!!!” In
the deathly quite of my encapsulated tomb I could hear his call.
I yelled back creating a quite and muffled noise, “john......” As
John continued to descend the face he found a ski that he hoped
was attached to me. He immediately realized it was not my ski
so yelled my name again, “Bill!!!!!!!”
When I heard John yelling I immediately
thought that he was hurt or buried. I lay there thinking. ‘Okay,
I'm not dead, I'm definitely hurt, but I'm breathing. John
is alive too because I can hear him yelling so all is not lost.
How long would it be before someone comes looking for us?
John yelled again, “BILL!!!!!!!!!!” Again I yelled
back, “john........” At first John thought he had
heard his own echo, so he called my name again, BILL!!!!!! I
yelled back, “John, are you buried!” John moved in
the direction of the noise he thought he’d heard. The tip
of my hood had broken the surface of the snow and I could feel
John’s edges grip my hood as he threw his skis sideways
as he skidded to a stop on top of me. He leaned down and spoke
my name softly fearing the worst, “Bill?”
“Get me out of here” I yelled
and John ripped his shovel out of his pack and started digging
like a man possessed. He promptly removed all the snow that
was on top of me but still I could not move. I was so compressed
into the snow that John had to remove the snow that surrounded
me and some of the snow that was under me before I could actually
move.
I gingerly began to move as John helped me
to a standing position. I instantly began to shake with shock
and mild hypothermia. I turned to look at where I had just come
from and the enormity of the situation began to settle in. Seeing
the size of the deposition pile and the fact that the avalanche
had gone across the flat runout zone in into the trees made
me realize how lucky I truly was. If I had hit my head and lost
consciousness, or had I been hit by a tree or a rock that was
also caught in the avalanche, the situation would be have been
much different. I have spent a large portion of my life skiing
and snowboarding in the backcountry and this was the largest
slide I had ever witnessed -- and I'd been in it! If I would
have observed this avalanche from a distance, or if I had come
across the debris pile on my way up Hayden, it would have been
easy to assume that a person could not have survived an encounter
with such a slide.
I took a few deep breaths and the reality
of getting off the mountain rapidly began to settle in. My
shoulder was badly dislocated, my left knee MCL was completely
torn and my left ankle felt mangled. My right hip had been contorted
and twisted in so many directions that I could not lift my right
foot. The thought of skiing 2,000 vertical feet through tight
trees was daunting, but the alternatives seemed much worse.
Perhaps I could wait for Mountain Rescue to arrive with a sled
or wait for an air evacuation? But a wait like that could be
dangerous. What if the weather came in, or I had injuries that
would worsen later? I was not convinced that I could ski, but
John felt otherwise and quickly adjusted the binding on his skis
to fit my boots. His plan was to walk, post hole actually, his
way off the mountain and down to the river while I skied on his
skis. The thought of John walking off Hayden made me feel sick,
but I was not in a position to argue. John put me into his skis
and I feebly began to work my way through the debris field. Traversing
avalanche debris is very difficult when a skier is strong and
it was almost impossible with my broken, twisted body. Every
move I made sent jolts of pain through my body. I had made it
about 50’ feet
when I ran into one of my skis. When I looked back to yell to
John that I had found one of my skis, I saw the tip of my other
ski about 20 feet from where I had been buried. John scrambled
over the debris to the ski and calmly said, "Hey, things
are looking up!"
I could feel John’s spirit lift as he
put me into my skis. John knew that walking off Hayden in snow
that was quickly warming under the spring sun would be miserable
and dangerous. At least we were both on skis and John could go
ahead and find the easiest path down. Regrettably there is no
really easy path off the mountain, but we did our best to keep
moving. The only position that did not send jolts of pain through
my body was to bend over and hang my dislocated shoulder below
me. The inside of my left knee was very unstable and the outside
of my left ankle could not bear weight, but somehow I managed
to stand on the leg and establish a feeble snowplow position.
My right hip had absolutely no strength so kick turns or quick
movements were not among the tools I could utilize. My right
knee and ankle were in good shape, relatively speaking, so I
was dependant on these two joints to get me off the mountain.
I used one of John’s poles as a crutch and
a break to help control my speed, but this was a difficult task
indeed. The thought of picking up too much speed and crashing
kept me on my feet. However, there were many times that I thought
that a fall might somehow force my shoulder back into the socket.
The pain was immense and my legs were unstable but I had to keep
moving. My heart was pounding and I was breathing harder than
when we had ascended the mountain. John kept telling me to stop
and rest, but I was afraid to stop. I was completely focused
on the task at hand and I would not allow myself to be distracted.
John repeatedly asked me to stop and rest but I was frustrated
by my slow progress. I told John that we could make faster progress
if he would simply drag me by my hair.
Finally John insisted that I stop and drink some tea, which
I did. As soon as the tea touched my lips I knew it was a good
decision, and it provided me valuable energy for the remainder
of the decent. I tried to lock my legs in one position and dangle
my gimpy arm below me but if you have ever skied tight trees
you know maintaining one position is next to impossible. Every
move was excruciatingly painful, but the thought of getting to
the hospital and having my shoulder put back in place kept me
focused and moving.
When we ran out of snow and were forced
to walk, I had to develop a new technique. Walking was far
more difficult and slower than backcountry skiing. I could
only make small side steps using my pole as a crutch. There were
times when we had to cross small sections of snow, and when my
feet would break through the surface of the snow. The pain was
nearly unbearable. I didn’t have
the strength to catch myself from falling so I had to put an
arm over John’s shoulder when the snow would not support
my weight. Stepping over fallen trees seemed like an insurmountable
task so I would again rely on John to lift me over each log.
After two hours we had made it to the river, but there was no
way I was going to attempt to cross the log that had already
bucked me off during the morning trek. Again, I put an arm over
John’s shoulder and we slowly walked into the water. The
rushing water pulled on my legs and the pain was immeasurable.
Taking very small steps John drug me through the river. Then
it was just a matter of ascending an old road cut to the paved
road before John could put me in his truck and take me to the
hospital.
Thankfully the emergency room staff at the
Aspen Valley Hospital is well trained and they immediately
began to access my injuries. I had sustained a great
deal of trauma but amazingly I had no internal injuries and
no broken bones. I was released from the hospital and John took
me home, deposited me on the couch and began to fill bags
with ice to apply to each of my damaged appendages. Ironically
I was soon buried in ice again to reduce the swelling from the
damage caused by sliding snow and ice.
Deborah arrived home soon after John
left and I gave her a stripped down version of the day’s
events. Needless to say she was relieved that I had survived,
but she also wanted to know what I had learned from the experience.
She did not intend to be patronizing, after all, she knew whom
she was getting involved with long before we were married.
She wanted to know what I had “learned."
I thought for a few seconds and said, “If
you fall in the creek within 500 yards of the car, it is an
omen. Tturn around and go home.”
“Okay’, she said, "What
else?”
This time I thought in silence for a
while before I spoke. “It
will be impossible for me to remove this experience from my memory.
It would be ridiculous for me to believe that I could enter the
backcountry without some level of apprehension. This incident
has been etched on my cortex for eternity and it will make me
much more cautious in the future. When I dig a pit from this
point forward I will always set a snow anchor and use a rope
to repel to a position before digging a snowpit. If I had been
anchored, I would have been held in place as the snow slide away.”
Deborah looked into my eyes and
said, “Did you
think about your family?”
 |
| Billy Madsen is the Director
of Operations for the world’s
largest recreational ski racing program, NASTAR. He has appeared
in five Warren Miller movies and was a stunt skier in the
feature film, “Aspen Extreme”. Bill raced for
the University of Colorado and the US Junior Worlds Team. |
This time I didn’t need time to think
before I spoke. “My
first thought when I was pulled under the snow by the avalanche
was of my family. When I was tumbling under the snow I thought
about you and the kids. When I was lying under the snow and realized
I was stuck but I had plenty of air to breath, I knew I would
somehow get out of the snow and get off the mountain. I never
allowed any doubt to enter my mind. My children have always been
the most rewarding and cherished part of my life and I have no
intention of missing their upbringing. I realized that I have
a huge responsibility to my family, and my family must come before
my ambitions to backcountry ski and snowboard big mountain peaks.
I can not tell you that I will stop backcountry skiing, but
this experience has and will continue to change me, and it will
change the way I approach the mountains.”
Tears of joy, sadness, worry and fright
filled Deb’s eyes. “Thank
you” was all she said.
|