Ski Boot Cuff Pivot Rivet — Elegant Repair
This came in from Tomas K. It’s one of the best homebrew repairs for skiers we’ve seen in a long time. Goes under the category of “Why didn’t I think of that?”
From Tomas: “I broke one of the cuff pivot joints on my Garmont Endorphin boots (4 years old). I found a pretty elegant solution to solve this problem. For new axle I used a standard chainring screw from bike. This type of screw fit right into the hole. I made a short movie (2min 10s) about installation of the new axle.”
Posted by TheEditors OfWildsnow on January 20, 2013 | Filed Under Boot Fitting, Gear Mods
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10 Responses to “Ski Boot Cuff Pivot Rivet — Elegant Repair”
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- Lou Dawson: Hah! Thanks, fixed that and some other typos. I keep spelling Ripido wro...
- Dan: @XXX_er: I have been told that the glue tends to absorb/adsorb water and t...
- XXX_er: thots:I used G3's on skis the alpinist may look light and minimalist but...
- Dave Cramer: First caption should be rewritten: "Ski Trab Rapido (top) and the one kilo ...
- Lou Dawson: See, award goes to you for best comment of the week. LOL...
- SR: Have they looked at sound patterns? Depending on lots of things, I'm not s...
- Rodney: Not sure that works unless you are only scared of avalanches. If you have ...
- See: Sphincter pressure switch....
- TK: Mark, I bought this years version, had many miles on them so far - grip an...
- Lou Dawson: Mason, get a grip (grin), how could an avalanche accelerate faster than a f...
- Lou Dawson: I'd totally agree that the older G3 glue was not as good as other brands. P...
- Christian: Movement x-bond could be an alternative with rocker, but probably suffer so...
- mark: i think he means the glue, which has, historically, 'sucked' 'but it appea...
- Drew Tabke: I can see where Joel is coming from. Working in a ski shop we have had lots...
- Mason: I am researching for my term paper on the potential application of sensors ...
- Terrance: Josh, Good point, just need back side smooth....
- Lou Dawson: Well Joel, there is a first time for everything and for different opinions ...
- Joel: ''G3’s Alpinist skins have the reputation for touring great'' It's the f...
- Jack: Really sound report. That near fold on the old style shovel looks like a ...
- Bill: Hey Lou I know you are busy. I will test those Magicos for you....
- Lou Dawson: Just now got around to weighing some more of our Ski Trab testers. Folks, w...
- Lou Dawson: Frank, experiment with custom footbeds right away! That problem can become ...
- josh: I also own this shovel and agree with the review. One negative that I would...
- Frank White: First off, I want to say thank you for the awesome job you all do on this s...
- Lou Dawson: Hi Ellen, no idea, sometimes they open it the night before, sometimes we're...
- Ellen: Hey Lou, jeffrey and I might see you on Saturday. Do you know what time on ...
- grosenkranz: Thanks for the input--I plan to ski them another season and keep some baili...
- Lou Dawson: About the Green Machine and other Pebax boots, a bit of play is normal afte...
- Erik Erikson: I guess that the problem should be less serious with the green machine than...
- Fernando Pereira: @grosenkranz: The first time I really noticed the problem on my Green Machi...
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The set up in the video seems like it would have a tendency to loosen itself over time.
In order to mitigate auto-unscrew action I would use a longer chain ring bolt (they come in many lengths) such that the bolts snugs up against itself rather than the shell, but with minimum extra space. I would also use a bit of threadlocker.
Chain ring bolt would be a small, light addition to an expedition repair kit.
DRS, excellent point, thanks much. I’d probably even use a bit of epoxy on the bolt threads, the kind I can loosen by heating the bolt with a soldering iron. Lou
I have seen these boot cuff rivets blow out a number of times, on both AT and tele boots. I carry a bolt with 2 washers and a self-locking nut(with a plastic lining) in my repair kit. An easy fix in the field, have used it at ski areas too.
The field repair does look a little Frankenstein-ish with the rest of the bolt sticking out of the end of the nut, but it works great.
Great fix. A couple bits of insight
You want the medial cuff attachment as flush to the shell as possible.
You’ll want to use steel chainring bolts instead of the lighter weight alu. A ski edge would shave off the protruding head of a alu bolt in short order.
I wonder if he is somehow connected to the Rossland crew – we’ve been doing that one for years! Ironically, I think it all began when one of the crew had the main rivet blow out on his Endorphins, and the owner of the bike shop was sitting next to him in the change room.
This is a great idea, but i second the comments about treadlocker, bolt length and steel. Chain ring bolts are notorious for loosening on bikes, and the alu ones shear/strip pretty easily. One concern i would have about using this as a permanent fix would be that the holes molded into the plastic might be larger diameter than the bolt/nut, seems you could get some lateral slop in the cuff.
I am very glad that you found my solution useful and yes I was glue the screw by epoxy.
Very cool Tomas! I still own a pair and I’ve wondered when the rivet would go cuz there were a lot of blown cuff rivets on that boot …thanx
Scooter,
titanium chainring bolts, guaranteed to cold seize, loc-tite not necessary, make pretty sparks too when hit with the edges …
Just did this repair today on my Garmont Adrenalins, used alu chainring screws, some modified washers and epoxy. Modified= half a mm too big so I filed it down a bit. It fit great after that.
Will update if I have problems, if no word from me than it worked great, is still working, or I bought new boots!