Dynafit Heel Unit Breakdown and Assembly Instructions

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This post by WildSnow.com blogger  

Many of you asked for it over the winter, but doing it right is a bit of work and skiing always got in the way. Finally got it done… Enjoy! For the complete article click here.

Black Diamond Verdict backcountry ski
Photos illustrating our DIY instructions for Dynafit disassembly and assembly include this breakdown of internals with names. Full article.

Comments

11 Responses to “Dynafit Heel Unit Breakdown and Assembly Instructions”

  1. Roy Haraldstad May 12th, 2007 7:23 am

    Lou
    You have finally convinced me to purchase Dynafit! Which model would you reccomend for New England trail sking with Tuckermans thrown in during the Spring. As I get older Their seems to be less time to stay in shape but……. more money to by lightweight equipment.

    Thanks, Roy

  2. Lou May 12th, 2007 7:56 am

    Roy,
    If you’re doing mostly trail skiing I’d just go with the TLT, but if you want to use wider skis consider going with either Comfort or ST as both have more height off ski which helps control wider skis.

  3. Mark Worley May 12th, 2007 9:19 am

    Lou,
    Thanks for another cool how-to. The simplicity of the Dynafit binding is astounding. Did you ever find an outlet for the recommended non-lithium grease used to lube the binding?

  4. j morrone October 2nd, 2007 11:16 am

    nice info!

    I have the old TLT bindings mountined on my big stiff skiis, and when working rebound in deeper snow, I come out of the heel pieces way too easily. I sent 1 ski about 700 m down a glacier toward Saas Fee this spring, but luckily it stopped short of a cravasse!
    I suspect the short pins on this model, combined with the 2-3 mm “button” on the front of the heel piece (down below the pins), limit pin insertion into the boot (even with proper shim spacing), and deep flex- rebound may flex the pins clear from the boot heel.

    Dynafit says I cannot substitute the longer comfort model pins.

    A local shop says I can dremel off the “button” from the heel piece plastic, then shim from a smooth heelpiece for deeper pin insertion to remedy.
    What does this “button” in front of the heel piece do?
    Does it appear if I dremel off the button that the heel piece will be excessively weakened?
    Since the newer comfort model heelpiece is smooth (actually concave for heel clearance), it appears this may be a “makes sense” modification.

  5. Lou October 2nd, 2007 3:25 pm

    Morrone, the button is there for legal reasons, because as the ski flexes and the pins slide in and out of the boot heel fitting, it changes the DIN setting slightly. With the button, it limits the movement. This is according to a very expert inside source. Perhaps as expert as it’s possible to be (grin). At any rate, I dremel all those stupid buttons off my bindings and have never had any problem. Just leave a tiny bit of plastic above the surface of the housing and you should be fine. This mod is of course done at your own risk of death and dismemberment, not to mention voiding the warranty.

  6. Justin November 20th, 2008 11:01 am

    Hey Lou I have a Dynafit problem. When doing some dry land testing of my new Radiums in my bindings I noticed that when I flex forward one of my heel pieces kind of clicks and give just a touch. If I manually pull upward on the heel piece it does the same and wants to rotate one way just a touch. The other one doesnt do this at all, it spooks me a bit. Any ideas? Thanks!

  7. Lou November 20th, 2008 12:01 pm

    Probably your thimble bushing, see FAQ via menu at top of page…or use my site search, which works quite well…

  8. Ken Cox November 26th, 2012 1:46 pm

    Hi Lou,

    I now have a Dynafit problem that I shouldn’t have. After 6 years of use I decided to do a heel unit breakdown for inspection and relube on my TLT Classics. All went well on the first one but on the second unit one of the front screws holding the top plate broke (very easily I might add) when I tried to remove it. Unfortunately it broke flush with the bottom of the recessed hole, right where the screw bites into the plastic housing. As you would expect, no amount of careful drilling was successful in removing the broken part. As a tradesman I’ve removed many broken bolts but never one in plastic or one this small.

    Any ideas?

    I’m hoping I can get a replacement plastic body for this unit somewhere but no luck yet.

    BTW, Wildsnow is one of the very best sites on the entire internet. Extremely useful and entertaining.

    Thanks for all your efforts at supporting the backcountry ski community.

  9. Lou Dawson November 26th, 2012 4:35 pm

    Ken, the screw would have broken no matter what, very common with older used up Dynafits. I’ll ask around about a spare binding housing. Please email me using the contact link above.

  10. Dave Neame January 3rd, 2014 8:23 pm

    I picked up a used pair of Dynafit Bindings yesterday to use on a backup set of skis. I love these bindings and have used them for years. These ones are the TLT Classics, but look in great shape with very little wear. I greased the Thimble Bushing. I also checked the 4 Torx screws that hold the top plate of the rear heal piece on. All were a tad loose, so I snugged them up. But one of the rear screws just spun, so I pulled it out, and I suspect it has sheared at the point it screws into the plastic plate inside the heal piece. What should I do? Should I just epoxy it in, and trust that the 3 good screws are good enough? Or can I somehow get the broken end out, and put in a new screw? Any source for these screws?

  11. Lou Dawson January 4th, 2014 12:46 am

    Dave, the torx screws holding the top plate on earlier TLT bindings are one of the failure points for sure. They can also be a break point on Comfort and Vertical models. They fatigue, break, and strip if over-tightened. If it’s broken-sheared near the top there is nothing you can do, as it’s almost impossible to drill or otherwise remove the remnant screw from the bore in the plastic heel unit housing. If it’s broken and still has some threads that go into the plastic, you can put plastic enabled epoxy in the bore and gently thread the remaining broken screw in, while hoping for the best. You might also be able to carefully use a screw with slightly larger diameter. I’d call Dynafit customer service and see if they have any parts left for that binding, you never know. The proper repair is to use a new housing AND new screws. Lou

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Welcome to Louis (Lou) Dawson's backcountry skiing information opinion website and e magazine. Lou's passion for the past 45 years has been alpinism, climbing, mountaineering and skiing -- along with all manner of outdoor recreation. He has authored numerous books and articles about backcountry skiing and is well known as the first person to ski down all 54 of Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks, otherwise known as the Fourteeners! Books and free back country news and information here, and tons of Randonnee rando telemark info.

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