Dynafit TLT 5 Cuff Lean Adjuster Install


This post by WildSnow.com blogger  
A European boot pile, this one favors TLT-5.

European boot pile, this one favors TLT-5.

They say once you go to the Dynafit TLT series boots you never go back to other backcountry skiing boots. That could mean several things. Indeed, this ‘disruptive” product is a fine (some say revolutionary) shoe. On the other hand, the forward cuff lean of the TLT-5 is a bit much for some skiers, meaning yes you never go back — even when you want your legs to ‘go back’ and give your knees and quads a rest.

The problem with too much forward cuff angle is twofold. Perhaps most importantly, skiers with certain types of knee problems require a more upright stance that places less continuous stress on the knee’s supporting structures (patella, quadriceps tendon, quadriceps muscle, etc.) Secondly, modern ski technique (riding the ski rather than pressuring it) is thought by some to require a more neutral stance.

Note that one reason cuff lean is an issue with Dynafit boots is they tend to be used with Dynafit bindings that in turn have major ramp angle (heel higher than toe). Thus the problem is exacerbated. More, the TLT 5 liner cuff is thin. Using aftermarket liners with thicker cuffs can compound the problem.

It is relatively easy to reduce the lean angle on some AT boots. Yet models such as TLT 5 require major fabrication skills for a change to the lean-lock.

Or, perhaps there exists an add-on part that takes the TLT-5 cuff lean down a notch? The parts described below for Dynafit TLT 5 model boots will begin retail in late 2012. They lower the cuff lock position by about 3 millimeters, resulting in a minimal yet noticeable reduction in forward lean (a few degrees, difficult to measure exactly.)

The parts swap, new part to right. Arrow indicates how the alu plate.

The parts swap, new part to right. Arrow indicates how the alu plate simply locates the hole lower down for less lean, or you can reverse the plate position vertically (via threaded fasteners) and end up with same lean as original.

TLT-5 cuff lean adjuster swaps the part indicated by arrow.

TLT-5 cuff lean adjuster swaps the part indicated by arrow. Essentially, you end up with a lean lock similar to the new 'One' model boot. In the 'One' you can change the lean a few degrees by removing a small aluminum plate and reversing its vertical position, due to the hole in the plate being off center vertically. Same with this.

As with the original boot parts, the swap parts have a left and a right.

As with the original boot parts, the swap parts have a left and a right. Organize your swap by doing one boot at a time and matching the text molded into the original part with that of the new.

How is the actual swap done? Simply use a pin-punch to remove

How is the actual swap done? Simply use a pin-punch to remove the pin holding the part. The pin has a large end and a small end. The challenge is, which end to drive from? In some cases, the pin is best driven out by hitting the smaller end with a pin punch, and in other cases it's best to hit the larger end. This discrepancy is due to two types of pins, one with more pronounced barbs than the other (see photo below.) The only thing we can figure out is to first lightly tap the smaller end of the pin with a punch, it the pin begins to easily move out, countinue. But if the pin is resistant to movment don't drive hard or you'll bend it. Instead, try driving from the other side, presumably so the barbs slide through the plastic hole instead of catching. Drive out the pin in a warm environment, at least room temperature, so the plastic is sufficiently flexible.

The pin is driven out by pin punching from the smaller side.

In this case, the pin is driven out by pin punching from the smaller side. In other words, examine the pin before you start, you'll see one side is slightly smaller than the other. But as mentioned above and below, you may need to drive out from the larger side (which will probably be right to left). Important: support plastic on solid surface while tapping on the pin, otherwise the boot will just bounce around and you may not be able to drive out the pin. If the pin doesn't begin to easily move, try driving with pin punch on larger end. See next photo.

Spoiler pin with pronounced barbs must be driven so the barbs don't resist.

Spoiler pin with pronounced barbs must be driven so the barbs don't resist. In this case, the pin would be driven from right to left (it's shown in the photo with the boot, for scale.) This pin is bent, easy to straighten by lightly hammering on solid steel surface. Thanks Pablo for the photo.

Lisa (WildSnow Girl) has knee problems. Her day goes much better when she can relax into a more upright stance. I made this mod on her boots before our last big European ski touring day, and it seemed to help. Worth a try if you have issues, or just want to tune your stance for your turn style. Only gripe is we’d like to see this sort of thing provide even less forward lean than it does. For example, they could have made the aluminum swap plate longer, and provided two plates with several choices as to position of the hole. More cost to make of course, but then, these are the Ferrari of backcountry skiing boots, so bring on the option package.

Comments

78 Responses to “Dynafit TLT 5 Cuff Lean Adjuster Install”

  1. Spiros April 25th, 2012 11:17 am

    Glad to see that dynafit finally launched that option!!

    Any ideas Lou when will be available (to Europe) and cost??

    Thumbs up for the early update (seems that you and federico started a good friendship :)

    I am jelous of your “honeymoon” to those huts even if i am close to Alps (Greece) i can’t afford it anymore! Have fun

  2. Lou April 25th, 2012 12:01 pm

    Hi Spiros, it’ll be available this fall. Not sure of the cost, we’ll wait on that. Lou

  3. Andy April 25th, 2012 1:03 pm

    THANK GOD. As soon as it’s available, I will buy it.

  4. Richard Ross April 26th, 2012 3:37 am

    Hi There,

    Thanks for a great website!

    Do you know of a similar solution for Titans?

    I have spent a fortune on physiotherapy lately due to an issue that we have traced back to switching to Dynafit due to the excessive forward lean and binding ramp. All my angles changed and my body didn’t like it.

    I’d love it if you could respond!

    Cheers,

    Richard

  5. Lou April 26th, 2012 3:47 am

    Hi Richard, thanks for visiting. I don’t know of a solution for the Titans. My suggestion to anyone is that your body is a lot more expensive to fix than your boots, so if in doubt change boot model or brand. Also, don’t forget that the ramp angle of all tech bindings can easily be changed by adding shim under binding toe or heel. This is definitely part of the solution for a lot of people, and perhaps all some folks need. With Lisa, we combined the slightly reduced cuff angle described in the post above, along with using a TLT Speed binding instead of Vertical/Radical. Quite a bit less angle that way. It’s of course quite possible to have too little forward angle, but if your knees are hurting, better to go too far that direction first, then work back. As Wes mentioned above, easy to add forward angle, difficult to remove it. That’s why it surprises me when boot companies sell boots with pronounced forward lean. But then, lots of skiers still like to have their knees hanging out beyond their toes when in downhill mode, it helps when making those tight squiggly turns (grin). Lou

  6. RIchard Ross April 26th, 2012 4:54 am

    Hi Lou,

    Thanks so much for your reply. I might start with the toepiece shims and see how I go. I also agree that fixing boots is cheaper than fixing bodies! I could have almost bought a pair of TLT5P by now!

  7. Scott Pleva April 26th, 2012 6:09 am

    Richard, i have Titan boots and have the same issue, i read on another thread that a guy here used 9mm to shim his radicals to achieve zero ramp. that sounds like a lot as the most i have had to shim alpine bindings is 6mm to achieve zero but may be a starting point for you and I… I picked the titans due to last width and boot stiffness and dont want to change boot but would prefer to play around with ramp and delta angle… ps check to make sure you aren’t inadvertently setting the forward lean to 21 degrees instead of 15. I learned that one the hard way ;)

  8. Scott Davenport April 26th, 2012 8:32 am

    What is the point of the binding forward lean vs. 0? Other than the tight squiggly lines. My problem this year for some reason is with burning thighs.
    Thanks

  9. Scott Pleva April 26th, 2012 9:06 am

    Scott, binding forward lean or delta angle can be very important to get your hips in the correct position so that you are skeletally stacked with good posture and not end up using your muscles to pull you back into a relaxed posture.

    when in your ski boots try a test at home and bend at the ankles as low as you can and then stretch up as high as you can. Now place a CD case or thin book under your heel and see if it is less or more comfortable, do the same under the toe…

    some good reading can be found in Le Masters books and the “all mountain skier”

  10. Jon Moceri April 26th, 2012 10:47 am

    Scott,

    Thanks for the Le Masters reference.

    I agree that forward lean, boot delta and binding ramp angle considerations are very important to skiing better, faster and with less effort.

    My ski coach, Gavin Hunter, at Crystal Mountain, spends a lot of time looking at his clients stance. Most often he pulls out rear spoilers to decrease forward lean, and puts toe lifts under the ski boot to decrease ramp angle. This allows the skier to stand up and be more balanced in their stance. The results are usually immediately seen.

    Lou Rosenfeld, a Canadian bootfitter who has a Masters degree in engineering and biomechanics, has put together a series of articles on bootfitting, binding ramp angles and binding positioning.

    http://www.lous.ca/tech-articles.html

    Much of what Lou Rosenfeld advocates is along the same lines as what Lou Dawson, and others, write about here.

    Jon

  11. XXX_er April 26th, 2012 12:15 pm

    A ski tech buddy looked at my stance and immediately put a stack of magazines under the boot toes which did feel better, he claimed I had too much forward lean so when I asked him why he said ” its simple when you standup in those boots yer ass sticks out ” so we put plastic shims under the toe piece he was going on info he read in a book … .maybe it was the same book

    I bought some Conform’ables from Lou last time I was in Calgary at the time it was a one man shop where you make an appointment with Lou, some good articals on his site

  12. AndyC April 26th, 2012 12:53 pm

    Last winter I would have been very excited about the new TLT lean modification; now I have to ski some more to determine if it will be worthwhile for me. This winter I switched to Speed Radicals on my low angle touring skis to reduce ramp angle and build up of snow under the heel (which increases ramp angle too!). I wore out my TFX liners so I order a pair of Palau touring liners from France and fitted them; they have considerably less material behind the calf than the TFX and don’t rise up as much. Not too much forward lean now. I like the liner but it is minimal, not plush, and weigh about the same as the TFX; Palau’s claimed weight is 350g. I also bought a Intutiion Pro Tour and will try it as well–and made a point to try to compress the upper back during thermo-fitting. BTW, I adopted Lou’s method of using some tubing on a piece of cord that fits over the cuff lock, works great, fast on and off.

  13. Lou April 26th, 2012 1:19 pm

    Andy, yeah, the amount of material between your calf and the boot shell in rear can make a HUGE difference in forward lean. My method of boiling that part of the liner and aggressively molding out some of the thickness really helped. Using a binding setup with less ramp is also incredibly effective.

    It’s so weird to be struggling with this. So easy to add angle to a boot, so much harder to subtract.

  14. Josh A April 26th, 2012 5:51 pm

    ooolala… are those TLT5P “TF” Palau liners in the TLT5M’s? Dynafit says they dont stock them here in NA, do you know where I can get a pair of them?

  15. AndyC April 26th, 2012 7:24 pm

    I too tried to get the TF to replace my TFX with the same response. So I went to Palau directly http://www.palau-boutique.com/thermo-liners,us,3,6.cfm. Frederic, with reasonably good English compared to my nonexistent French, was very helpful. I tried to order with my Visa and it was rejected by BNP Paribas (actually, I think by US Bank because I used the card in WA and France in the same day), so I wired money–big mistake! My credit union et al. charged a $70 transfer fee. Subsequently, I learned that one can call the credit card company and alert them and things will go o.k.. Shipping was 23 Euros, not too bad as the liners are much cheaper than Intuition (who were also very helpful and shipped quickly, not cc problems as they are only a hop and skip away). Palau shipped the liners speedily and they got here in a couple of days; they included instructions for thermofitting and materials for customizing fit; the ones I bought can be used without thermofitting, but I used Intution’s rice method to incorporate my footbeds, avoid pressure on my metatarsal corn that developed from worn out liners, too much ramp angle, and ice buildup under the heel, and to avoid any undue pressure on the veins & nerves on the top of the forefoot (learned that from Jim Mates). Only a couple of days on them so far, but so good; they are thinnish, so it is easy to overtighten buckles.

  16. Stano @ Skintrack.com May 1st, 2012 12:44 am

    I will be a happy customer :)
    I am used to skiing in a much more neutral position (mostly a by product of skinny short skis and skimo racing boots) and after starting to ski the TLT5s I immediately noticed a big difference. It felt so out of place that I was afraid to drop into steep lines, just couldn’t feel enough control.

  17. Mike May 1st, 2012 9:26 pm

    Will there be a lean adjustment for the Vulcan as well?

  18. Lee Lau May 2nd, 2012 8:49 am

    The Vulcan has two lean modes. There haven’t been enough people on it to give feedback

  19. Cindy September 7th, 2012 4:19 pm

    Does anyone know if too much forward lean is a problem with the Gaia. And an “approx” flex rating on it would be very helpful. My current boots(crap) are a 90 flex. I teach in them and anything much stiffer is hard to bend to pick up the munchkins.

  20. Lou Dawson September 9th, 2012 1:29 pm

    Cindy, depends on the binding you’re using, but too much forward lean is probably not a problem. Lou

  21. Owain Williams September 27th, 2012 6:40 pm

    Lou or AndyC,

    Hoping for some advice on the above-mentioned Palau liners.

    I have a pair of TLT5 Mountains with TF-X liners, size 27.5. The flex zone at the back has torn away from the calf part of the liner after about 40 days skiing, so I need to get some new liners.

    No response from Dynafit, so considering other options.

    In terms of fit, they are currently on the extremely tight end, so I don’t want a new liner to be more chunky, if anything, thinner would be better (although I understand that the TLT5 liners are very thin already).

    Which of the Palau liners should I be looking at? The “Light Flex”, “Tour-Lite”, or “Ultra Light”? Are there any other liners I should consider (Intuition models)? I’m Australia based, so finding a range of touring liners is pretty challenging.

    cheers,
    owain.

  22. AndyC September 27th, 2012 6:52 pm

    Owain, the choice depends on your preferences, of course–what is most important: weight, flexibility, or comfort. The people at Palau were very helpful to me. I bought the tour ilght liner; it is very basic, and it was fine in spring/summer skiing (I switched off between it and my original Mountain liner which had more than 100 days on it but also works well, with a footbed, for summer skiing). I also bought an Intuition Pro Tour that I fit to the boot with the idea of using it in winter (it is more plush, more insulative, and I strove to compress the back of the liner against my calf to reduce the liner’s effects on forward lean), but I have used it much yet; I figured if it proved to be too thick in practice for my TLT5s I could use it in my Zzeros and my Zzeus :-)

  23. Lou Dawson September 27th, 2012 7:09 pm

    Owain, if you persist with getting the stock liner replaced, that’s probably what’s going to give you the most room and least thickness behind the calf. But as Andy is saying, I’d advise contacting Palu online, or Intuition. I use the Intuition Pro Tour liners in my TLT5s, but they are indeed quite thick behind the calf and I have to boil and compress that area before I get the forward lean I want. Lou

  24. Owain Williams September 27th, 2012 7:29 pm

    Thanks for your replies.

    I should clarify about the tightness – it is the width of the forefoot that I have the concern with fatter liners. The calf is fine.

  25. AndyC September 27th, 2012 10:38 pm

    the Palau tour lite is probably as thin as one could get (or want) in the forefoot, IMHO.

  26. Ron Cole October 3rd, 2012 11:23 am

    Lou,

    Any news on the availability of a replacement cuff (or lean lock bracket) to reduce the forward lean of the 2011/12 TLT5 mountain’s? If Dynafit isn’t going to produce one I guess I’ll try a make a new lean lock bracket myself, that should be an adventure :-O.

    I guess another option would be to shim the toe piece of my TLT Vertical’s with the B&D shims. Any idea what screws to use with those shims on 2011/12 Mustagh Ata Superlight’s with the inserts?

    Thanks

  27. John Milne October 9th, 2012 9:49 am

    Hi Ron,

    We set up a waitlist at http://tinyurl.com/TLT5Waitlist. Currently we’re expecting them in November.

    Cheers.

  28. Lou Dawson October 9th, 2012 10:21 am

    Thanks so much John for dropping by, was getting tired of that question and not having a definitive answer! Lou

  29. Scott November 19th, 2012 9:54 am

    @ John Milne or anyone in the know…

    Any progress on the lean lock adjuster?

    Thx

  30. Ron Cole November 30th, 2012 8:57 am

    I just emailed Brooke at Salewa USA about the timeline for the replacement forward lean parts and she quickly replied, looks like early January:

    “I am showing that the forward lean adjustment has an estimated availability of early January.”

    Best,

    Brooke Babbitt
    Customer Service Representative
    brooke.babbitt using the url salewa dot com

  31. Lou Dawson November 30th, 2012 10:45 am

    Thanks for checking up on that Ron!

    Both Lisa and I are still using the lean reduction part, and our knees are loving the results.

  32. Arthur December 18th, 2012 9:40 am

    Does anyone know how much import duty/customs fees one can expect when getting liners from France?

  33. AndyC December 18th, 2012 12:46 pm

    @Arthur: I didn’t have to pay any when I go my liners from Palau. Depending on who the carrier is, you may have to pay some sort of customs processing fee (UPS charged me $40, beyond shipping charges and at delivering payable by check only, for “processing” some goods from France–that was not an import tariff or fee paid to US Customs). We ordered a pay of fleece pants for my wife from Vancouver, B.C. (just up the road) and the private entrepreneur who handled the border crossing of the goods charged us more than the cost of the pants (but no import tariff or fee to US Customs). Also beware: if you purchase by wiring money, you can get a high charge for international wires (say $70); if you buy with a credit card make sure you call the cc company in advance to set it up or your cc may well be rejected; then expect whatever bank is behind your card to charge you a hefty fee for currency exchange. It seems the days of “free trade” became obsolete under GWB, instead now you pay for every breath you take.

  34. John Baldwin January 14th, 2013 1:20 pm

    I bought TLT 5 boots this year. I love the way they tour but find the forward lean way too much. I think it is responsible for aggravating my IT band on my right leg. (Old creaky knees…but they love powder!)

    My boots are the 2011/2012 version so I can’t adjust the lean. This years boots have 2 settings. Does anybody know if one of the settings is for less forward lean? Its hard to decipher the dynafit website but it looks like last years boots were 18 deg, so is this years 15 and 18 deg?

    I am using my boots with Intuition pro tour liners which may make the lean a bit more noticeable.

    The insert idea sounds like a simpler fix than buying new boots. Anybody tried raising their dynafit toes?

  35. Lou Dawson January 14th, 2013 1:35 pm

    John, the later boots you can set for less forward lean, one of the setting is for that, it’s simple as it’s simply a function of flipping the little aluminum lock plate vertically. The thickness of the liner behind your calf is indeed a HUGE factor in this. You can shrink that by boiling the liner cuff for 4 or 5 minutes then buckle tight and lean back to compress the spoiler area. Lou

  36. Stano January 14th, 2013 1:37 pm

    Hello John :)

    I too think the lean is a bit too much. I do not notice it in powder but come corn/spring skiing and my quads are burning. I like to sit up more. Besides that I like very much.

    As for IT bands, buy one of the massage sticks or a hard-foam roller. Do what the instructions say regularly and you will be amazed how things change ;)

  37. David January 15th, 2013 11:15 am

    I’m not getting how lowering the cut out decreases the forward lean.
    Is it not the other way around – a higher cutout would result in more upright cuff position?

    any new update on the retrofit part availability??

  38. Lou Dawson January 16th, 2013 2:45 am

    David, perhaps I confused things in the blog post, but I’m sitting here with a TLT 5 in my lap and the hole that creates forward lean does create _less_ lean if it is _lower_. In other words, if the “tang” or “finger” that fits in the hole is jacked forward by having more material under it (the hole or “cutout” being higher), the boot has more forward lean. Is that more clear? Lou

  39. David January 16th, 2013 1:16 pm

    Thanks Lou.
    Just looked at my boot (which I clearly should have done earlier).
    It is indeed as you say and is indeed obvious with the boot in hand.

    I might just need to try this mod.

  40. ron cole January 16th, 2013 2:21 pm

    UPDATE: TLT5 replacement spoilers:

    Thought folks might be interested.

    I just got an email from Erc Poore at Salewa/Dynafit USA in Boulder. The replacement TLT5 spoilers I pre-ordered in November are in stock and ready for shipment . The charge for my order was only $35.00 ($20.00 for the parts and $15.00 shipping), a very fair price! I forgot to ask how many un-spoken for pairs they have in stock.

    Hopefully I’ll have them soon so I can get them installed and my quads will quit burning so early in the day :-).

    ronoc

  41. John Baldwin January 16th, 2013 4:22 pm

    Good for you Ron!

    I discovered Dynafit has a waiting list you can sign up for to get the aftermarket mod:

    http://tinyurl.com/TLT5Waitlist

    I also called around to a bunch of stores looking for a pair of new boots that have the adjustment. I got confusing responses and then checked with Dynafit customer service and this is what they said:

    “Our inventory for this season is mixed between the newer models that have the adjustable forward lean and last years which do not adjust. ”

    In the meantime I might just try making a piece like Lou’s!
    Thanks for the tips Lou.

  42. Peter Burke January 18th, 2013 11:19 am

    also got my email that my parts are ready to ship. Difficult to reach them on the phone to pay for the parts, though, and I am far too paranoid to send CC info through email services.

  43. Lou Dawson January 18th, 2013 4:44 pm

    Peter, what’s the big deal with sending CC via email? It’s way safer than using your card in a restaurant where the waiter can quickly photograph your card when he takes it up front for paying your check, and you’re not liable for any fraud, anyway.

  44. John Baldwin January 18th, 2013 5:25 pm

    I was able to get through to Dynafit and have ordered the after market parts for the TLT5.

    In the meantime I went ahead and made my own alteration following Lou. I went to the marine hardware store (not so good in Colorado I guess) and got some aluminum bar of the right thickness. I cut it with a hacksaw. The hardest part was drilling and filing out the rectangular cutout. Not easy with only a drill. The bit skates around quite a bit so my rectangles aren’t too pretty (even compared to Lou’s :) ) but when they are riveted in they seem to work fine. I didn’t bother countersinking the rivet heads and it seems ok. Just tried them on the carpet so far and they are a big improvement. Tomorrow I’ll take them on the snow.

    Now all Dynafit needs to do is fix the front buckle and then they will have the best touring boot ever!. I find the buckle won’t stay done up when it is loose and it comes totally undone when walking in the snow (ie digging a pit or bootpacking).

  45. Plinko January 22nd, 2013 9:18 pm

    Lou,

    Just got the replacement spoiler kit from Dynafit. Do you know the two angles this provides?

  46. Lou Dawson January 23rd, 2013 5:43 am

    Plinko, sorry, I don’t have Dynafit’s numbers. It’s actually kind of hard to measure cuff lean angle, so all numbers are approximate anyway. Just do what feels correct. If used with bindings that have lots of ramp angle, I’d suggest the lower angle for anyone, then increase if needed. Lou

  47. John Milne January 24th, 2013 5:05 pm

    Lou, you’ve got your directions backwards for picture 5, you drive the pin out from the right to the left. The way illustrated in your picture is pushing against the barbed end which will dig in to the plastic and make it much harder to get out. The rounded end should come out first.

  48. Douglas Gormley January 26th, 2013 9:01 pm

    As John just said the description on driving the smaller end of the pin out is incorrect. I actually bent the pin because of the barbs that John talked about bound it up while driving out. I did contact Dynafit and they confirmed that you drive out (pin punch on larger diameter end) from the larger end. Once the pin is out it makes sense.

  49. Douglas Gormley January 26th, 2013 9:06 pm

    Opps, just realized John is with Dynafit, sorry about the last post no need to confirm his information.

  50. Lou Dawson January 27th, 2013 6:25 am

    Apologies if the photo is misleading. I’ll check all this when we get home to workshop. I’m wondering if they changed the pin since I did it, as I’m certain that in my case driving it out by pin punching the smaller end was the way to go. Lou

  51. Pablo February 1st, 2013 2:33 am

    Yesterday I was trying to punch out the pin but It was impossible to remove!
    I hit in the smaller end but nothing was moving there….

    I was hitting the wrong end? or It’s so well fixed that I need to hit harder?

    In other order, With the spoiler in my hand I was thinking that there is too much material there and if cutting the side flaps of it could be possible and safe. I had the impression that the main part of that spoiler is the central spine and that de sides are no so important and I can save a few grams… what do you think about it?

    Apologies for my bad english,
    Pablo.

  52. Lou Dawson February 1st, 2013 7:58 am

    Douglas and all, it appears we had a semantics issue here with my instructions. When I wrote “drive out from the small end” I meant apply the pin punch to the small end and drive TOWARDS THE LARGER END. I just made a new photo to clarify, it’s installed at the end of the post above.

    Pablo, support the plastic on something solid with room for the pin to go down. Make sure you are hitting the pin on the small side. If you’re doing those two things and still have problems please take your boot to a professional tech.

  53. Douglas February 1st, 2013 8:40 am

    Lou I think we need John Milne to chime in on this because I bent my first pin driving out the way your describing. Got another pin and drove out with the pin punch on the large end and everything went in and out perfectly.

  54. Lou Dawson February 1st, 2013 8:45 am

    Douglas, that is so weird. I can’t figure out why the pin would go out easier if the large end has to be forced through a small hole in the plastic! I’ve done three or four of these, and did them all the way I picture. I’m wondering if Dynafit changed something on newer production runs. Just so strange!

  55. Douglas February 1st, 2013 9:13 am

    Thats where I think it would be helpful for someone from Dynafit to jump in here. The way your describing made sense to me the first time I did it but when I called Dynafit because my pin was bent I was told to drive the pin with the pin punch on the larger end driving out the small end. It made since when I felt the pin and the barbs are directional which is why the pin bent using the pin punch on the smaller end. They bind against the plastic driving that direction. Hopefully we can get someone from Dynafit to clear this up.

  56. Dan February 1st, 2013 9:47 am

    I just re-read all of the above about driving the pin out. I am confused…to say the least. Really, it looks common sensical to place the pin punch on the small end and drive it towards the bigger end. But there are conflicting directions here and I am afraid of damaging the pin and then having to wait months to get a replacement from Dynafit, etc. This does not seem like a difficult problem, but somehow it has managed to become one. Is this some sort of practical joke? Where one of you “gurus” is putting us on? If so, stop it. I need my to make this mode on my TLT5s before May.

  57. Lou Dawson February 1st, 2013 10:58 am

    Indeed Dan, this is driving me crazy! Like I said above, I’ve done this mod to three or four pair and all the pins drove out by punching the SMALL side, which is logical. Only thing I can think is they changed something on some of the boots. I’ll go over and look at some current production run boots and report back.

    In this case, I guess my guru status has been reduced to mere acolyte. (grin)

  58. Dan February 1st, 2013 12:52 pm

    Lou, my money is on you for this pin-gate issue. Its just that I can’t wait to play with my new set of Bostitch pin punches and my back is bothering me a bit…no skiing makes me cranky.

  59. Lou Dawson February 1st, 2013 1:21 pm

    Well, I went over to Cripple Creek Backcountry here in the old mining town to check some Dynafit boots, and the boys are all gone to the SIA ski show in Denver. That’s too bad, because a client of mine wanted me to pick up a pair of DPS skis from them with Radical bindings. Oh well, I guess we’ll order from backcountry.com (grin). Lou

  60. Dan February 1st, 2013 4:28 pm

    RE: TLT5 spoiler Pin removal. Lou, I purchased my TLT5Ps from a local shop last Feb (2012). At least for those boots, the pin must be driven from right to left. That is, one places the pin punch (I used 3mm for driving it out and 4 mm for driving it back in) on the larger end and hammers it out towards the smaller end of the pin…right to left (looking at the back of the boot). This jives with a couple other reports from readers above. Maybe the mtn. is different? Or, maybe the earlier models were different.

  61. Lou Dawson February 1st, 2013 4:36 pm

    Dan, Thanks. So, why? Is the hole closed on the left side where the smaller end of the pin is? Does the pin have some kind of shoulder on it or something? Sounds like we have two different versions of these things, so let’s get it clear so folks can use these instructions without being misled.

    The ones I have definitely need to be driven out by placing pin punch on the smaller end, in my case the left.

    Lou

  62. Douglas February 1st, 2013 4:49 pm

    I actually contacted dynafit asking someone to comment so we could clear this up. The pin on the larger end has barbs(curious on yours Lou, have you noticed these?) And these barbs are smooth when pushing from the large end but if you push the pin from the small end these barbs dig into the pastic restricting movement and in my case actually bent the pin.

  63. Dan February 1st, 2013 5:51 pm

    TLT5P Spoiler Pin Removal: There are 3 or 4 ribs nearer to the large end (right hand side looking at boot from the rear of the boot) as described by Douglas. The ribs/barbs are slanted towards the large end, which would make it difficult at best to drive the pin out from the left side (small end). The shop did not have my size and had to order the boots (Feb 2012). So, I am guessing that they were later model TLT5Ps.

  64. Nate February 3rd, 2013 11:09 pm

    To add another data-point to the pin direction info here… Just modded my (late model) TLT5P boots the other day, and found that I need to pound the large side of the pin in.

    I whacked at the small end pretty hard several times and got nowhere. I then read the comments here and tried smacking the large end, sure enough the pin came right out. I found the barbs on the large end of the pin as described by posters above.

    My suggestion (seems to have worked OK for me)- give the small end a few taps and see if you can get the pin to move. I smacked it hard and it shifted maybe 1mm. If it doesn’t move, then try beating on the large end.

  65. Pablo February 4th, 2013 2:14 am

    TLT5 Spoiler pin removal issue:
    Hi to all!
    Yesterday I have time to try it again.
    This time I hit the pin from the large side as Douglas an Dan said.
    It was hard, but it becomes to move out and finally it goes out!
    The pin also has barbs as described above.
    As Douglas did i also bent the pin a little, I supose i did it when hitting hard on the smaller side first time. I was hitting it really hard!! :lol:

    For more info, my TLT5p’s are of the first to be in Spain, oct 2011.

    Pablo.

  66. Lou Dawson February 4th, 2013 7:38 am

    Hey boys and girls, I’ll get to the bottom of this today or tomorrow. I’m 99% sure there was an “inline” manufacturing change that resulted in two types of pins. One must be driven out by hitting the smaller end, and one must be driven out by hitting the larger.

    If any of you who have pins with “barbs” could send me a macro photo (use contact option above) that would be appreciated.

    Lou

  67. Pablo February 4th, 2013 10:05 am

    Lou, in some hours I’ll return from working and send you some pics!

  68. Pablo February 4th, 2013 2:57 pm

    Lou,
    I did the “macro pic of the spoiler pin barbs and send it to you.
    Please tell me if you have received it.

    Pablo

  69. Lou Dawson February 4th, 2013 5:57 pm

    Thanks Pablo, the evidence of your help is in the post above! I did some editing, I hope it’s clear. Apparently there are two types of pins, one drive out easier than the other. Solution seems to be lightly driving from small side first. If it doesn’t move, then drive from the larger side. That’s all I can come up with for how to do this reliably.

  70. John February 5th, 2013 10:36 am

    I did the replacement last night on my 2011 Performance boots after reading the comments here. I drove the pin out from the larger side with no problems. The factory barbs were the same direction as the replacements. The reduction in forward lean was noticeable for me, and observable by my wife (a P.T.).

    I noticed the cuff pivot wear problem has slopped the holes with about a millimeter of play with the cuff. I have read/seen photos about the fix with DIY stainless parts, but I wish Dynafit would come out with parts to fix this too. Looking forward to hitting the slopes Friday. Thanks all.

  71. Lou Dawson February 5th, 2013 10:46 am

    John, thanks.

  72. John Baldwin February 6th, 2013 11:11 am

    I did the cuff mod a few weeks ago. To drive my pins out I drove from the small end (ie I put the punch on the small end, following Lou’s directions – seemed to make the most sense). It worked fine, though I was surprised at how hard it was to remove the pins. I didn’t notice which direction the barbs faced. My boots are last years TLT5 Mountain.

  73. John February 6th, 2013 2:40 pm

    John B., Mine came out fairly easily. Perhaps your difficulty was due to resistance from the barbs pointing the direction you punched.

  74. John February 11th, 2013 9:39 am

    The “fix” was perfect, i.e., powder skiing over the weekend was easier without all the forward lean. Highly recommended remedy.

  75. Pete March 22nd, 2013 4:17 am

    Hi all. Performed the swap last night on my early model TLT5 M’s. Drove easily from large end, and back in same way. Both pins seemed to have a very slight bend to them anyway, which I didn’t bother trying to correct.

    I’m not convinced it actually makes much difference. To my eyes one setting increased lean a fair bit, while the other barely reduces it at all. Anyone able to comment on comparative lean angles with / without new spoiler bit?

  76. Rob March 28th, 2013 8:58 am

    Does anyone know if these parts are still available? And, if so, how to get them?

  77. Lou Dawson March 28th, 2013 9:19 am

    As far as I know they’re still available by contacting Dynafit N.A. customer service.

    http://www.wildsnow.com/693/psa-dynafit-north-america-is-available-to-help-you/

    Lou

  78. Skiboyj April 24th, 2013 7:55 pm

    Hey Lou,

    I just ordered the adjustable lean plate for my tlt5′s and installed it promptly. Then I realized that the screws attaching the plate are not flush with the plate (like in your pictures) and they protrude. This causes the screws to catch on the lock hole in the cuff while in walk mode and also since the protruding screws are the first thing to touch the cuff, they are wearing a vertical groove in the cuff even after just trying the boots on inside. Something doesn’t seem right about this. I just sent an email to dynafit us and will try to call them tomorrow, but do you have any insight? Thanks!

Got something to say? Please do so.





Anti-Spam Quiz:


If you need an emoticon for a comment just copy/paste off the following list, or use text code you might be familiar with.
:D    :-)    :(    :lol:    :x    :P    :oops:    :cry:    :evil:    :twisted:    :roll:    :wink:    :!:    :?:    :idea:    :arrow:   
  
Due to comment spam we moderate most comments. Please do not submit your comment twice -- it will appear shortly after approval. Comments with one or more links in the text may be held in moderation, for spam prevention. If you'd like to publish a photo in a comment, contact us. Guidelines: Be civil, no personal attacks, avoid vulgarity and profanity.
Welcome to Louis (Lou) Dawson's backcountry skiing information opinion website and e magazine. Lou's passion for the past 45 years has been alpinism, climbing, mountaineering and skiing -- along with all manner of outdoor recreation. He has authored numerous books and articles about backcountry skiing and is well known as the first person to ski down all 54 of Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks, otherwise known as the Fourteeners! Books and free back country news and information here, and tons of Randonnee rando telemark info.

All material on this website online magazine is copyrighted, the name WildSnow is trademarked.. Permission required for reproduction, electronic or otherwise. This includes publication and display on other websites by whatever means. PLEASE SEE OUR COPYRIGHT and TRADEMARK INFORMATION.

Backcountry skiing is a dangerous sport. You may be killed or severely injured if you do any form of ski mountaineering, skimo randonnee and randonnée skiing. The information and news on this website is intended only as general information. While the authors and editors of the information on this website make every effort to present useful information about ski mountaineering, due to human error the information, text and images contained within this website may be inaccurate, false, or out-of-date. By using, reading or viewing the information provided on this website, you agree to absolve the owners of Wild Snow as well as content contributors of any liability for injuries or losses incurred while using such information. Furthermore, you agree to use any of this website's information, maps, photos, or binding mounting instructions or templates at your own risk, and waive Wild Snow its owners and contributors of any liability for use of said items for backcountry skiing or any other use.

Switch To Mobile Version