Comments on: Encore: Wisdom for the Hills — John Evans and Peter Lev

By: dmr

dmr — Sat, 23 Mar 2013 12:52:37 +0000

Excellent blog post. The human factor is indeed important in mountain endeavors as a group or a pair. For the last ten years at least AIARE courses have focused much more on the human element and group management than simply becoming proficient at beacon searches and digging pits.

With the exception of one bad experience with a new partner trying to bite off more than we could chew on a first outing together (we never climbed again together), I’ve done well in choosing the right partners over the years. Mostly I think because:

(a) I like to head into the mountains with friends, or if we’ve just met, someone I get along with well – I don’t look at a partner, especially for climbing, as simple utilitarian, if I’m going to spend days in the mountains putting my life in their hands, I want to get along with that person and have the desire to spend time with them,

(b) When heading out for the first time we choose something well within our ability in order to provide the chance to work out the kinks in the partnership, see how the other performs, etc. As I wrote, the one time I did not do this led to an epic (no one was hurt in the affair, rest assured).

But even with that system working very well for me, even when heading out with partners I’ve had and climbed/skied/etc. well with for years, I’ve realized that there is a letter (c) that I’ve had to add to my formula, and that is:

(c) Being on the same wavelength. Sometimes with longtime partners who are also best friends, goals and one’s approach to the mountains change. This is easy to read when assessing a new partner, but not so easy when you’ve been on hundreds of wonderful outings with someone you’ve known for 10 years. When one of my best friends and I started yelling at each other simul climbing on a ridge line at 13k feet, we both looked at each other about ten minutes later when tempers had settled and basically said, “What the hell just happened?” Turned out that we were both in a different mindset for the trip.

Anyway, I digress. Great topic. Cheers.

By: OMR

OMR — Thu, 21 Mar 2013 16:23:08 +0000

Ski solo, then you only have yourself to blame for the bad company.

By: kyle tyler

kyle tyler — Wed, 20 Mar 2013 23:47:27 +0000

Yes-Peter and I worked together teaching Level II Avay Classes on Mount Washington,N.H.—He looked at me in the field one day and stated the this may be his last time back east doing such—-i took over for him from then on but the best part was a conversation about where we went to school—Montana State–where I did–working with Doc John Montagne—Peter introduced the idea that Full Moons and Tides had an influence on Avay problems—-to this day i have a lot of his work and class outlines that he developed while teaching—thanks to Peter for spreading the word–tell him hello—kyle tyler

By: Chet Roe

Chet Roe — Wed, 20 Mar 2013 23:43:04 +0000

about five years ago did a British Columbia hut trip with Pete …I didn’t know who he was….half the guys on the trip were these “older guys” who all had known each other for fifty years since college at CU or the service….all mellow personalities, some skiing on skinny older skis or Miller softs….anyway, one night after a couple of sips we were looking through Chic Scott’s coffeetable Canada mountaineering history book…..half the guys at the table were in the book as first ascents, stories started to flow about first ascents around the world, I was stunned at the history of all these guys that I didn’t have a clue about ….I was one of several of the youngsters that got invited through friends…Andy Arnold was the first physicain in Winter Park, Colorado…taught skiing in Alask to the ski mountaineering troops there (just died a year ago), Paul Stetner of Longs Peak/Stetner Ledges “name”……these were all that crew…each guy had a story bigger than the last guy, but each guy almost more humble than the last one……amazing to be amongst them….I didn’t realize it till the end of the week the history I was in the midst of…..they all were just enjoying the skiing, no egos, just long time buddies getting together…..more talk about family stuff than mountain accomplishments……wow!

By: Mike Marolt

Mike Marolt — Wed, 20 Mar 2013 16:01:25 +0000

I was litterally just talking to my brother and life-long buddy Jim Gile about a recent expedition where we brought along another buddy. Great guy, super to have around, but not at the same level mentally, physically, or experiencewise. We digressed to talking about 3 other expeditions over the years where we had similar experiences. We have never had any major accidents due to this, but it has been a cause for stress and even anger. It NEVER works. But then again, I am not sure outside of one “outsider” if there is anyone that could really tollerate the likes of us three to begin with let alone for weeks at a clip. But the point in the article is clear and spot on. And what is frustrating is we have all read the bible on the topic, Jon Waterman’s Surviving Denali. Group dynamics are the basis for safty, success, and having a good trp. So yes, choose partner’s wisely. Great article!