Comments on: Dynafit Radical ST Backcountry Skiing Binding – Review http://www.wildsnow.com/4828/dynafit-radical-backcountry-skiing/ Backcountry Skiing Weblog Blog, FAQs, more, links and info about randonnee, telemark and backcountry ski mountaineering. Wed, 22 May 2013 01:49:44 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2 By: Lou Dawson http://www.wildsnow.com/4828/dynafit-radical-backcountry-skiing/#comment-52578 Lou Dawson Sat, 06 Apr 2013 20:25:13 +0000 http://www.wildsnow.com/?p=4828#comment-52578 Tom, if you read through all my Radical coverage you'll see I was not very happy with the initial breakage, but I tried to be understanding along with that. Once they got all the bugs worked out it turned out to be a very impressive tech binding. Not sure about the crampon hooks, as that's honestly the first time I've heard of that problem. They're incredibly easy to replace, so that's a plus, but yeah, I'd want them to be strong so I'll watch out for what you're pointing out. 'best, Lou Tom, if you read through all my Radical coverage you’ll see I was not very happy with the initial breakage, but I tried to be understanding along with that. Once they got all the bugs worked out it turned out to be a very impressive tech binding.

Not sure about the crampon hooks, as that’s honestly the first time I’ve heard of that problem. They’re incredibly easy to replace, so that’s a plus, but yeah, I’d want them to be strong so I’ll watch out for what you’re pointing out.

‘best, Lou

]]> By: Tom Wolfe http://www.wildsnow.com/4828/dynafit-radical-backcountry-skiing/#comment-52576 Tom Wolfe Sat, 06 Apr 2013 16:44:14 +0000 http://www.wildsnow.com/?p=4828#comment-52576 Apart from a variety of serious breakage problems I had with the first generation Radical binding (I haven't had a chance to put the warranty replacements through the rigours yet), another problem I've had with the Radical binding is the crampon mount point. Lou, you seem to be impressed with it. Yes, the moulded silver metal looks pretty (compared with the previous _seemingly_ flimsy plastic mount point -- which I never, ever broke), but the problem lies with the opposing painted black steel hooks piece. The hooks bend, very easily, i.e. when you kick the toe piece accidentally (I used to do this on purpose, to clear off the snow on my boots; I don't do it any more). When you try to bend the hooks back there's a very good chance you'll break them off. I'm just getting ready for a traverse that starts tomorrow and noticed that the pesky hooks on one ski have done it again; they've bent just a little too tight to put the crampons on -- some very careful bending with a screwdriver has solved the problem but I'm concerned about metal fatigue... and so I'll have my fingers crossed for the next 7 days... this isn't a part you can easily get around here. Apart from a variety of serious breakage problems I had with the first generation Radical binding (I haven’t had a chance to put the warranty replacements through the rigours yet), another problem I’ve had with the Radical binding is the crampon mount point.

Lou, you seem to be impressed with it. Yes, the moulded silver metal looks pretty (compared with the previous _seemingly_ flimsy plastic mount point — which I never, ever broke), but the problem lies with the opposing painted black steel hooks piece. The hooks bend, very easily, i.e. when you kick the toe piece accidentally (I used to do this on purpose, to clear off the snow on my boots; I don’t do it any more). When you try to bend the hooks back there’s a very good chance you’ll break them off.

I’m just getting ready for a traverse that starts tomorrow and noticed that the pesky hooks on one ski have done it again; they’ve bent just a little too tight to put the crampons on — some very careful bending with a screwdriver has solved the problem but I’m concerned about metal fatigue… and so I’ll have my fingers crossed for the next 7 days… this isn’t a part you can easily get around here.

]]> By: steveG http://www.wildsnow.com/4828/dynafit-radical-backcountry-skiing/#comment-50203 steveG Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:14:31 +0000 http://www.wildsnow.com/?p=4828#comment-50203 @Shawn- I drill out all of my Dynafit plates like that. You are OK. @Shawn- I drill out all of my Dynafit plates like that. You are OK.

]]> By: Shawn http://www.wildsnow.com/4828/dynafit-radical-backcountry-skiing/#comment-50133 Shawn Sun, 20 Jan 2013 03:57:54 +0000 http://www.wildsnow.com/?p=4828#comment-50133 HI Lou. When I was drilling out the plastic screw holes in the toes I used a 13/64 bit and they still seemed to have a lot of thread (screw still req'd a fair bit of force...more than I figured was supposed to be used). I uped it to a 7/32 and now they don't seem to really have any thread. The screws aren't loose in the hole but I can push them through without turning the screw. Am I snafu or is this ok? Thanks again Lou. Cheers. HI Lou. When I was drilling out the plastic screw holes in the toes I used a 13/64 bit and they still seemed to have a lot of thread (screw still req’d a fair bit of force…more than I figured was supposed to be used). I uped it to a 7/32 and now they don’t seem to really have any thread. The screws aren’t loose in the hole but I can push them through without turning the screw. Am I snafu or is this ok? Thanks again Lou. Cheers.

]]> By: Lou Dawson http://www.wildsnow.com/4828/dynafit-radical-backcountry-skiing/#comment-49563 Lou Dawson Thu, 03 Jan 2013 16:12:33 +0000 http://www.wildsnow.com/?p=4828#comment-49563 Shawn, ski screws are just #12 (just pulling that from memory) wood screws with a fancy top and precise length, one tap works for all, the correct tap is available from various ski shop tool suppliers. http://www.slidewright.com/ski-or-snowboard-tap-and-t-handle-wrench_svtap.html?cat=132 Here is more info http://www.wildsnow.com/3991/tap-guides-skis/ It's also possible to mount without tapping the holes, especially in skis without metal top skins. In fact, some ski techs only tap skis with metal. The way I do it without tapping is drill with the larger 4.1 bit and start the screw with a good amount of downward pressure, then be careful not to over tighten and strip, and use a small amount of 5 minute epoxy. Better to use the 3.5 and tap, in my opinion. An issue with the new aluminum base bindings is the alu conducts heat so fast it's much more difficult to heat an epoxied screw with a soldering iron for extraction. I'm not sure what the solution for this is. I broke a torx bit due to this effect, and the bit is stuck in the screw so now I can't get the binding off without crude procedures. For now, I'm recommending still using epoxy, use only a small amount just to seal the screw if the skis accept the screws solidly. I'm experimenting with a hotter soldering iron. Lou Shawn, ski screws are just #12 (just pulling that from memory) wood screws with a fancy top and precise length, one tap works for all, the correct tap is available from various ski shop tool suppliers.

http://www.slidewright.com/ski-or-snowboard-tap-and-t-handle-wrench_svtap.html?cat=132

Here is more info

http://www.wildsnow.com/3991/tap-guides-skis/

It’s also possible to mount without tapping the holes, especially in skis without metal top skins. In fact, some ski techs only tap skis with metal. The way I do it without tapping is drill with the larger 4.1 bit and start the screw with a good amount of downward pressure, then be careful not to over tighten and strip, and use a small amount of 5 minute epoxy. Better to use the 3.5 and tap, in my opinion.

An issue with the new aluminum base bindings is the alu conducts heat so fast it’s much more difficult to heat an epoxied screw with a soldering iron for extraction. I’m not sure what the solution for this is. I broke a torx bit due to this effect, and the bit is stuck in the screw so now I can’t get the binding off without crude procedures. For now, I’m recommending still using epoxy, use only a small amount just to seal the screw if the skis accept the screws solidly. I’m experimenting with a hotter soldering iron.

Lou

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