Fritschi Diamir Eagle & Freeride Pro Template

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This post by WildSnow.com blogger  

Big change to this post is that the Eagle mounting hole pattern is the same as the Freeride Pro. Some confusion about that out there in the land of wild snow, so this should help us all know the score. (I also did some editing on the DIY mounting instructions linked below.)

Click over to our Fritschi Diamir Eagle & Freeride Pro mounting instructions, and you’ll find a template link there. Best that way, as the mounting instructions have essential info on using the template.

Thanks to BD, I had the right resources for creating a good template. But be careful that you print it at full scale, and always compare to binding holes before drilling!

Thanks to BD, I had the right resources for creating a good template. But be careful that you print it at full scale.

Challenge with making these templates is that due to manufacturing tolerances in mechanical jig and binding, it’s tough to get to the point of automotive precision. But I compared this paper template to the mechanical jig as well as a binding, and it passes visual muster. So good to go!

The critical part of mounting any Diamir model is locating the heel unit. A few millimeters too forward or back and it won’t work correctly. Measurements for this are on the template, follow them with care.

It was suggested a while back that I make these templates into two separate pages so the centerlines could be longer. I’ve not found that to be necessary with templates for plate bindings, because it’s so easy to tweak the plate alignment by just observing where it falls on the centerline, then pushing it left/right while tigtening or loosing the screws. Even with a longer centerline, you’ll still find yourself doing this because of manufacturing variations. It’s the same with other bindings, only more difficult with non-plate bindings such as Dynafit, because you have to work with a boot in the binding to align it.

Comments

18 Responses to “Fritschi Diamir Eagle & Freeride Pro Template”

  1. steveo November 6th, 2009 4:18 pm

    I recently re-mounted a pair of Fritschis using this template system – it worked great.

    However, I am having some issues with consitent forward pressure when trying to set the binding to my boot sole length. I’ll set the length and get the forward pressure dialed, eject the boot, step back in, and the forward pressure screw is in a slightly different location. These binders have many, many days on them. Is there any way to service and/or lubricate the internal mechanism on Fritschi Freeride bindings? I didn’t have any luck searching the net.

    Thanks for any input!

  2. XXX_er November 7th, 2009 6:23 pm

    hey steveo we had something like that happen in the middle of nowhere last season at rogers pass

    there is a little set screw on the bottom of the end cap that the forward pressure screw comes thru , the purpose of the screw is to hold the cap on the rail ,if that screw gets loose or falls off it can mess up your adjustment

    I jammed the screw in the hole slightly crossthreaded with a swiss army knife can opener blade so we could finish the trip and Red Shreds in Williams Lake put both screws in properly with blue loctite

    these were my buddies earlier white freerides ,there is 1 screw holding that cap on

    my black freerides have 2 screws holding that cap on so this is probably a known weakness

  3. palic November 8th, 2009 12:53 pm

    Good job with printable version of template for Fritschi Eagle, but mounting is possible also without any templates…

    I have got Fritschi Eagle on April 25, 2009 without any template… I left the same day from Europe for skiing on vulcanos at Kamchatka-peninsula, so mounting of Fristchi Eagle on new Movement Iki 2010 was done immediately and just on “eye precision” with mounting binding itself and heel unit. Proper placing of both parts was quite hard, but finally successfull. Climbing and skiing from volcanos as Avachinskaja, Korjakskij, Viljuchinskij was excellent. The same with crampoons: http://www.mountainski.eu/41/usage-of-crampons-on-new-skialpinism-binding-diamir-eagle-during-the-trip-to-kamchatka

  4. JakeS November 30th, 2009 11:04 pm

    Hi Lou

    Any idea if one could upgrade the older freerides (the white ones) with the new anti insta tele end piece?

  5. Lou December 1st, 2009 7:29 am

    Jake, probably not. I just examined the bindings.

  6. Mike March 4th, 2010 3:10 pm

    I just set up my girlfriend with a pair of Eagles on Black Diamond Joule skis. However, I overlooked the ski crampon issue. Looks like the Axion Eagle crampon will fit an 86mm ski, which is only 9mm narrower than the Joule. Would it be possible to stretch the crampon open or would this compromise the metal? I am not familiar enough with aluminum to know if I can heat it and stretch it without destroying the function of the crampon.

  7. Lou March 4th, 2010 4:06 pm

    Mike, I wouldn’t try bending that crampon.

  8. Jay November 7th, 2010 6:46 pm

    I have the old fritschi freerides (yellow and grey) and am having problems with the heel peice switching to tour mode during descents. Has this been a problem that is resolved with the newer models? Also, does anyone know if the eagles have the same hole pattern as the older fritshis or will I have to redrill?

  9. Lou November 7th, 2010 7:15 pm

    Jay, that is known as “Insta Tele” and it is indeed fixed in later models with an ingenious mechanism in the heel unit.

    Check this out:

    http://www.wildsnow.com/backcountry-ski-museum/fritschi-freeride-plus/fritschi-freeride-plus.html

    Eagle has different hole pattern, see our templates:
    http://www.wildsnow.com/articles/fritschi-freeride-mount/fritschi-diamir-freeride.html

  10. Paul November 14th, 2010 5:23 am

    Hi Lou,

    I’ve just bought a new pair of skis with the Fritschi Freeride Pro bindings, mounted by the shop. In tour mode the bar does not drop smoothly into the heel piece under its own weight; it rests just on the heel piece with a 4-5mm gap on one side. Pressing down on it, the bar will go in, pulled across by the taper on the underside of the bar piece. I’m concerned any side pressure (e.g. when traversing) may cause it to snag more.
    Going to go back to the shop, but just wondered what you advice would be on what’s best to put this right. E.g. I’m not too keen on them moving the binding holes (possibly overlapping) when its a brand new set-up.
    What is an acceptable ‘mis-alignment’ at the back (as on the other ski its about 1mm out)?
    Thanks
    Paul

  11. Lou November 14th, 2010 2:52 pm

    Paul, the screws and screw holes in the front of the binding allow fine tuning alignment before they are tightened. The mech probably just slammed the screws home using his jig holes and missed a step. They should be fixed, if the shop is worth beans they’ll make them right, in my humble opinion.

  12. Anthony Ross November 15th, 2010 5:15 pm

    Lou

    I would really apreciate your advice – I have only one pair of skis (Scott Missions) but want to use two sets of boots – Garmont Endorphin for resort / sidecountry and am going to treat myself to a pair of Scarpa Maestrale boots this year for Alpine hut touring.

    Beacuse of sizing difference I take a 29 in Endorphin and 28.5 in Maestrale, but suspect that there is a quite significant difference is sole length although I have not been able to find anything on the web that gives this data.
    I have Freeride Pro bindings.

    The question I have is which boots should I mount for – as the larger Garmont shell will be set back compared to the smaller Maestrale shell. My feeling is to mount for the Garmont boot as I will be skiing at higher speeds which will mean that the Maestrales are set forward on the ski but would welcome your advice.

    I do not suppose that there is a Fritchi mounting plate which would allow the binding to be moved – as the boot is already lifted well above the ski surface adding more height sounds like a bad ides to me.

    Thanks for your advice.

    Anthony

  13. Lou November 15th, 2010 5:42 pm

    Personally, I’d mount for the Maestrale. Usually it’s worse to be more forward than back. No mounting plate I know of…

  14. Ward December 26th, 2010 5:52 am

    Mounting Problem: My local shop tried to fit the Diamir Freeride template for the Freeride bindings on K2 Pontoon (160-130-120) and even without the rubber stoppers the template was too narrow (skis too wide). I get the feeling that the shopkeeper doesn’t want to “eye” it up and do the mounting, as was mentioned in a previous blog. Should I find a shop that will? Is there not a wider template out there? Any other suggestions?

  15. Lou December 26th, 2010 6:30 pm

    Suggestion is to find a shop that has a technician who knows what he’s doing. It’s a simple matter of downloading a paper template and mounting the bindings. Perhaps they should charge you a bit more because doing so takes a bit more time, but to turn you away because their jig won’t fit your ski, that just seems like a good example of why people buy stuff from backcountry.com instead or their local shop…

  16. Sheb Powell November 24th, 2011 9:31 am

    Hello Lou,

    Just trolling the net looking for advice on ski crampons. I have been running some 80mm wide skis with the old style Fritchi Freeride Pro’s. They are about 5-6 years old. Red and Black color scheme. My ski touring is maturing into some mountains here in Switzerland that are well…. F*%+* steep and dangerous. I really need to buy some crampons that work with my older setup. All the shops here either have the narrow ones or the new snazzy ones that have the plastic swivel out hoo-ya set up neither of which I can use. Can you help me with a Fritchi part number so I can tell them exactly what I want?

    Lastly, I have been running some Black Diamond skins the ones with the truck tire tread print on it , and everyone here and I mean everyone, uses coll tex skins. Any preference or experience you can enlighten me with on Coll-Tex -vs- Black Dimand skins. Thanks a bunch.

  17. Lou November 24th, 2011 9:38 am

    Sheb, I don’t have enough Fritschi gear laying around here to give you a definitive answer. Perhaps someone can chime in.

    As for the skins, some of that is just a matter of what country you’re in, but main difference is the Coltex type glue does allow the skin to come off the ski easier, which is sometimes preferred, especially by folks who remove their skins with their skis still on their feet. More importantly, European skin tracks tend to be of more consistent and slightly lower angle than those in many parts of North America, so Europeans tend to like mohair skins due to their glide, and companies like Coltex are known fro their mohair skins (though BD does sell their own version).

    Lou

  18. David Rosenfeld April 1st, 2013 10:04 pm

    I’ve had trouble setting the toe height. Setting it so a thin card can slide under the sole of the boot leaves me with a lot of up and down toe slop when skiing. The slop appears to be from the rubber sole of the boot compressing. Since only a few of the lugs contact the binding it’s no surprise they would compress.

    I’m tempted to adjust the toe lower but am concerned about putting too much stress on the toe.

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Welcome to Louis (Lou) Dawson's backcountry skiing information opinion website and e magazine. Lou's passion for the past 45 years has been alpinism, climbing, mountaineering and skiing -- along with all manner of outdoor recreation. He has authored numerous books and articles about backcountry skiing and is well known as the first person to ski down all 54 of Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks, otherwise known as the Fourteeners! Books and free back country news and information here, and tons of Randonnee rando telemark info.

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